Jens Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 He said something like... if you need to place more than 8 screws on a pitch, you have no business being on the pitch. Anyone care to weigh in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 he said a lot of dumb stuff. best one was when he created the m-grades after he rated teriebel traverse WI7 and then jack roberts did the second ascent a few days later and called it 5.10 WI5+. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suckbm Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 If doing a full 50m pitch that comes out to a screw every 20.5 feet. Sounds a little runout if your trying to push yourself. But if your following the rule never fall on ice then its maybe a good rule. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishstick Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 It would be interesting to know when the quote was made. In the old days (pre-able to hand place BD screws) the statement would seem bang-on. Twisting screws in with a tool just took way too much effort. To roughly quote a friend (who posts here) after I asked him how many screws he put into Carlsberg: "two, cuz I didn't have the guns to place three." Personally, I think the most I've ever placed would be 10, but several of those were equalized due to concern about ice quality. GB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 He said something like... if you need to place more than 8 screws on a pitch, you have no business being on the pitch. Anyone care to weigh in? Jeff Lowe's statement = EGO! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcus Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 Sounds about right for 50m ropes - but someone better ask him to update his commentary for them newfangled 70m ropes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattStan Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 best one was when he created the m-grades ... The late, great Mike Bearzi was in fact the originator of the M system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 I've seldom placed more than 8 screws per pitch, but thats because I seldom carry more than 11 screws total. The beauty of ice climbing is that if you run out of screws you can usually throw in a belay pretty much anywhere. "Pitch" becomes even more arbitrary than in rock climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBay Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 he said a lot of dumb stuff. best one was when he created the m-grades after he rated teriebel traverse WI7 and then jack roberts did the second ascent a few days later and called it 5.10 WI5+. anyone want to guess what the percentage of dru/gspotters 35K+ posts on this site are dumb? hey dont hate the playas who the set the bar for you canadians on your own turf, hate the game. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 Oh, he's a great climber. Or was until he developed whatever it is he has - some disorder keeps him from climbing now, right? But when you read something like "Ice World" or the old interview in R+I where he expounds at length on his relationship with Catherine Destivelle (I heard that she dumped him as soon as she read a copy), you can't help but break out laughing at some of the weird shit he says. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 nonething is more annoying than when your partner only wants to bring 9 or 10 screws and expects you to lead the crux pitch. Plus I'm kinda a puss so I bring lots of gear. In general I think any blanket statements about ice climbing are dumb because the media isn't even the same from hour to hour. In Washington I tend to place a lot of screws because the ice usually isn't very good, and the screws are only okay so I will often place two screws from a good stance below a crux. In the rockies his statement is only slightly more accurate. Except when its really cold and I worry about dinner plating out my placements. but if he was dating Catherine Destivelle pretty much cannot make fun of him can you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 23, 2007 Share Posted January 23, 2007 I would laugh at anyone who loses a lover over published comments about their relationship. I can even remember some cc.com examples. Nowadays you don't have to make such comments in a national mag to get in trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstreet Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 Hey, put in as much pro as you need to feel comfortable. My philosophy is that you're a stronger climber if you can protect harder lines well (and harder is relative term). The prudent approach for beginner-intermediates is to protect early and often… if you can't protect the line well you shouldn't be leading it... later when you really know yourself and your judgment and ability are mature then you can start going lean on the protection as you see fit. I consider myself an intermediate climber so when I'm leading something near my limit I never skimp on pro… it's dangerous and it doesn't make you stronger or smarter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pope Posted January 24, 2007 Share Posted January 24, 2007 He said something like... if you need to place more than 8 screws on a pitch, you have no business being on the pitch. Anyone care to weigh in? Here's what else Jeff says.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted January 27, 2007 Share Posted January 27, 2007 "In Egypt, rescue workers found a 37-year-old man alive in earthquake rubble. He survived almost 82 hours by drinking his own urine. His wife, daughter and mother would not and they died." "Four Sri Lankan commandos who drifted in a boat more than 1,000 miles to Thailand after they had been ambushed and given up for dead were given a rapturous welcome when they returned home. 'They managed to survive on the boat by catching turtles and drinking urine,' a military officer said." "A male cook was pulled out of the rubble of the Hyatt Hotel early Monday morning, 14 days after a powerful earthquake devastated the northern Philippines, officials said. Dry, with only minor bruises on his body, he told reporters he survived by drinking his own urine." Something to think about next time your stranded in a snow cave and out of fuel. Wasn't there some climbers on Baker that dropped a pack and stranded in a storm drank their urine? But then the rescue came right away and it turned out they didn't need to. I knew miners were trained to do this but I thought the second time around it was more toxic? "if you need to place more than 8 screws on a pitch," depends on your fear factor, might be about right on a 60m pitch. If you have the strength to stop and place that many screws you must be strong enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flush_Amazing Posted January 28, 2007 Share Posted January 28, 2007 I heard that AlpineDave guy drank some urine once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 He said something like... if you need to place more than 8 screws on a pitch, you have no business being on the pitch. Anyone care to weigh in? Here's what else Jeff says.... WTF!!! What hell is wrong with people. They call drinking therapy, sounds like they need some really therapy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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