tyree Posted January 17, 2007 Posted January 17, 2007 Trip: Yosemite Valley - Salathe Wall Date: 6/16/2007 Trip Report: Hey there- here is a little something to keep up the rock stoak during these grey days. This is of FrostyTheTradman's and Tyree's adventures up the Salathe wall. Its pretty cheesey- but thats what I like about it, mabey you will too! Cheers! Gear Notes: too much shizzle, less next time up. Approach Notes: chill Quote
telemarker Posted January 17, 2007 Posted January 17, 2007 Cool! Nicely done. So, whadja take for the Hollow Flake pitch? A sling and couple biners for the belay? The position on the headwall pitches looks incredible. We're headed back down this June for the Nose. Your post comes at a good time, helps keep the fires stoked! Thanks! Quote
tyree Posted January 17, 2007 Author Posted January 17, 2007 We had a valley giant that DC graciously lent us as luck would have it. There is so much wide stuff on that route. I will have to say that the >5.10 piches were the hardest/scariest parts of the whole route. This was our fist grade 6. Even though it was a "moderate" grade 6 I have respect for ANY ascent of the big stone. It is quite an undertaking. There were a lot of lessons learned up there and I cant wait for another chance to work them out! Giver' down there this June! Quote
Sol Posted January 17, 2007 Posted January 17, 2007 thanks for making the slideshow ty. sweetness. Quote
billcoe Posted January 18, 2007 Posted January 18, 2007 Great stuff dudes! Thanks for the winter stoke. What program did you use for the video? PS, love the pics, hate the music, it would be interesting to hear you narrate it. But that's me, nice effort both on the rock and on the video. Quote
tyree Posted January 18, 2007 Author Posted January 18, 2007 Thanks, I used mirosoft digital image suite. Sorry you didn't like the music but I had alot of fun making it. As far as a narrative TR goes I thought that would be too much work. Plus the pics tell most of the story. Except for the time we were pissed on from a great height by the Frenchies two days above us and dry heaving ensued Then there was the time I was cleaning the roof when my jumar popped off and just as I almost instantly popped it back on a piece blew out from underneath the roof sending me screaming into space spinning out of control 3,000 ft off the deck. I almost shit myself. All in all we took our time and had alot of fun on this route. The rumors of it being the "best rock climb in the world" arent far off in my opinion. Quote
billcoe Posted January 18, 2007 Posted January 18, 2007 Then there was the time I was cleaning the roof when my jumar popped of and just as I almost instantly popped it back on a piece blew out from underneath the roof sending me screaming into space spinning out of control 3,000 ft off the deck. I almost shit myself. I almost just shit myself reading that. Far as the music goes, don't worry none, I'm old. Make yourself happy and plenty of folks will love it. Thanks again for sharing! Quote
Lambone Posted January 18, 2007 Posted January 18, 2007 Cool, you spelled "Hallow Flake" wrong.... Quote
tyree Posted January 18, 2007 Author Posted January 18, 2007 Yeah- I also said the "sous le toit bivi" when it was actually the Block- oops my bad. Its been a few months since the climb. Im sure there are many other fuck ups in there but thanks for pointing that one out Quote
corvallisclimb Posted January 19, 2007 Posted January 19, 2007 sous le toit bivi would be way shitty! compared to what else there is on that climb. Nice job you guys! Quote
mwills Posted January 24, 2007 Posted January 24, 2007 The rumors of it being the "best rock climb in the world" arent far off in my opinion. nice job but this is a tough one. the nose, although a bit contrived, is much more classic in my opinion. then again, the bottom of the nose does not compare to 'free blast'... Quote
tyree Posted January 24, 2007 Author Posted January 24, 2007 Well not having climbed the Nose I could not compare the two but from what I can tell is the Salathe has some amazing natural bivi's. In this regard it seems pretty amazing that a line like this exists up something so steep and huge as El Cap.I also really enjoyed all of the free climbing above the free blast b/c it was not polished like the FB. From what I've been told there is way more mandatory free on the Salathe whereas the Nose can be aided in many places if a person was lacking the cojones or energy to free climb. There is not nearly as much traffic up the Salathe compared to the Nose either, this is why we chose this as our first grade 6. I think the Nose is a much more aesthetic line climbing a prominent feature. I am heading down there this late spring to give it a go so I guess I can qualify this argument then. Quote
telemarker Posted January 25, 2007 Posted January 25, 2007 nice job but this is a tough one. the nose, although a bit contrived, is much more classic in my opinion. then again, the bottom of the nose does not compare to 'free blast'... A bit contrived?? Should the route be a continuous, 3,000' crack to the top to be legit? Quote
corvallisclimb Posted January 26, 2007 Posted January 26, 2007 nice job but this is a tough one. the nose, although a bit contrived, is much more classic in my opinion. then again, the bottom of the nose does not compare to 'free blast'... A bit contrived?? Should the route be a continuous, 3,000' crack to the top to be legit? I didnt think the first route up el cap was considerd contrived... mabey you where thinking of the real nose wich might be considerd that Quote
kevbone Posted January 26, 2007 Posted January 26, 2007 Whats the difference between the "real nose" and the not real nose? Quote
telemarker Posted January 26, 2007 Posted January 26, 2007 Whats the difference between the "real nose" and the not real nose? go get your Alpinist 11, go to pg. 63 fold out of the El Cap Topo. The route goes straight up Dolt Tower it appears. Quote
kevbone Posted January 26, 2007 Posted January 26, 2007 Whats the difference between the "real nose" and the not real nose? go get your Alpinist 11, go to pg. 63 fold out of the El Cap Topo. The route goes straight up Dolt Tower it appears. Like I have a Alpinist 11, thanks anyway. Quote
markd Posted January 28, 2007 Posted January 28, 2007 here's a link kevin: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=241411&msg=244293 Quote
kullaberg Posted February 20, 2007 Posted February 20, 2007 Nice trip report, tyree. Funny to read a debate about which is better, Salathe or the Nose! Obviously you can't go wrong on either one. I did both in one summer, back a long time ago, and rate them as the two greatest rockclimbs I've ever sunk a jam in. But, to fuel the fire, Salathe may just be a hair more memorable... The Nose is safer, Salathe downright scary in places. The Freeblast, beyond the first pitch is, IMHO, nothing to write home about, while the trip to Sickle is all fun. The headwall on Salathe is so steep and exposed for C1 climbing without portaledges. Yes, lots of wide stuff on Salathe, something you pretty much don't see on the Nose. We avoided the traffic jams at the base of the Nose by aiding up to Sickle in the afternoon with all our junk and spending the night. By the time the first party behind us were jugging their fixed lines, we were well into the Stovelegs. I write a little about these and other Yose routes on my site: http://www.fivenineclimber.com/index.htm That's all for now, Jan Quote
tyree Posted February 22, 2007 Author Posted February 22, 2007 I checked out your site, pretty cool. I love the paseyten wilderness. There is so much good rock out there and solitude. Its the Toulome medows of WA. Nice to hear someone else found Salathe downright scary in places too. Quote
Off_White Posted February 23, 2007 Posted February 23, 2007 Hey there Kullaberg So you're the fivenineclimber guy? That's a great site, I don't visit all that often, but it's a great read. The recent Sierra treks in the Whitney area are splendid, thanks for sharing. Quote
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