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About kullaberg

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    a bit of a lot
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    carlton, wa
  1. John Bachar Dies Free Soloing

    Sad. Met him in JT on his 32nd birthday. He was going about soloing 32 5.10's.
  2. Liberty Bell Picture sought

    3rd pitch, joe sprauer leading, 2005
  3. just us around for a full day of sunny cragging at vantage on m.l. king day. no drips or seeps. bone dry. on the approach we found 3-4" of snow, with a lot more windblown stuff here and there, but the base of the wall is all dry. good luck. jan
  4. very interesting all this talk about the elusive bolt. didn't notice anything when sonja and I did the route the weekend they opened the pass. jan
  5. Trip: baker - easton Date: 5/12/2007 Trip Report: parked among two dozen big trucks with empty snowmobile trailers, road walked/skied past large dirt stretches to schreibers meadow. from here a maze of snowmo trails lead up to moraines and the last trees. camped here, while the angry cries of two stroke motors provided a soothing backdrop for dinner. started up at 6 on saturday morn, with blue skies, crisp frozen firn and quiet. summited at noon and skied perfect corn back. never too cold or too warm. no crevasses of any real concern on route. sledtracks clear to crater. jan Gear Notes: skis and related equipment Approach Notes: any vehicle can go to where snow blocks road.
  6. [TR] Yosemite Valley - Salathe Wall 6/16/2007

    Nice trip report, tyree. Funny to read a debate about which is better, Salathe or the Nose! Obviously you can't go wrong on either one. I did both in one summer, back a long time ago, and rate them as the two greatest rockclimbs I've ever sunk a jam in. But, to fuel the fire, Salathe may just be a hair more memorable... The Nose is safer, Salathe downright scary in places. The Freeblast, beyond the first pitch is, IMHO, nothing to write home about, while the trip to Sickle is all fun. The headwall on Salathe is so steep and exposed for C1 climbing without portaledges. Yes, lots of wide stuff on Salathe, something you pretty much don't see on the Nose. We avoided the traffic jams at the base of the Nose by aiding up to Sickle in the afternoon with all our junk and spending the night. By the time the first party behind us were jugging their fixed lines, we were well into the Stovelegs. I write a little about these and other Yose routes on my site: http://www.fivenineclimber.com/index.htm That's all for now, Jan
  7. is there anyone here who can give me advice locating a local supplier (puget sound area) for sewing fresh webbing on my varied rack of cams and TCU's? thanks in advance, jan http://www.fivenineclimber.com/
  8. Climbing related websites

    here's a link to my site: http://www.fivenineclimber.com/ jan
  9. here's the result of hours of toil in front of my computer. more self indulgent bytes fighting for room on the information super highway. the washington section, as much of the rest, will be vastly improved when time permits. have at it..and be nice http://www.fivenineclimber.com/ jan
  10. Climb: cathedral peak-SE butt Date of Climb: 8/9/2004 Trip Report: Hi, Greatly inspired by dberdinka's recent report (thanks), we headed to Cathedral Peak earlier this week and did the SE Butt of the objective mountain, to use Becky language. It is easily the best route of its grade that I have done in a quite a while. It's long (almost a prerequisite for classic status), solid (little or no WA Pass kitty litter here) and sustained at around .8 for almost 10 pitches, with a few harder sections thrown in, most notably the headwall. Even more important, the route is a striking sight from near and far, begging to climbed, and leading straight to the summit. The downside, and there has to be one, cause that's life and nothing comes for free, is the approach. We went in from the Chewuch via Tungsten, about 16 miles of boring, lead-footed hiking on hammered stock trails deep in the woods, thankfully followed by 5 more trail miles of awesome high country traversing over a couple of passes right to the foot of the route. What more? The 'table sized boulder in an alcove' start that dberdinka mentions is indeed a fine way to get on the route. This is good, since the .6 start mentioned in the Becky book seemed improbable, if not nonexisting? See attached pic for dramatic view of peak. jan Gear Notes: set of stoppers, set of cams to #4 camalot, draws, runners. If you want to do the original OW thru the headwall it might be prudent to haul another, even bigger cam along. Otherwise, the thin crack immidiately to right is a better way. Approach Notes: long
  11. gardner mtn in nov.

    Hi, New here at CC. Here's a quick report from a couple of weeks back: Early november full moon brought record low temperatures to the east side. Little snow and building motivation for a backcountry trip gave birth to the '24 hr Gardner Mountain Excursion'. The three of us arrived at the trailhead as planned shortly before 9 pm, with temps in the single digit and an oh so bright and magic moon illluminating our frosty breath. The hike up Wolf Creek was erie, quiet and very cold. First brewstop 2 hrs in found us sitting in down parkas and half bags while the xgk broke the silence. A short nap and back on the trail. At 3 am we took another pitstop about 8 miles in. Dawn saw us just shy of Gardner Meadows with only 3-4 inches of fresh on the ground. The veil of darkness slowly lifted as we regrouped at 5500', melting water for the summit push and leaving our few bivvy items behind. The pleasant grade of deep and long Wolf Creek was exchanged for the steep climb up to the cirques at 7500' below the key gully leading to the summit plateau. Some classic root pulling, not too much, and plenty of scree was negotiated as the early morning sun warmed our backs to the point of sweating! Now out of the Wolf Creek drainage temps were actually reasonable. Approaching cirrus to the SE marked a change in the weather. The gully turned out to be snowfilled with death crust on sugar and was relatively strenous for the upper 3-400' before the terrain abruptly eased back after the final cornice. Here on the open upper slopes the sudden winds were quickly drying our sweat and a planned midmorning snackstop was cut painfully short. Summit celebrations weren't taking long either as most of the major peaks to the south now were shrouded in clouds and long tails of spindrift flew off nearby North Gardner. The long walk out was of course tiring and anticlimactic as is always the case in the world of mountaineering. We arrived back at the truck a few minutes before the 24 hr mark with 25 miles and 6500' feet of gain behind us, and at least your author was considerably pooped. The short commute home on the deer infested Methow Valley roads, with the driver barely awake, turned out to be the most hazardous aspect of this otherwise splendid adventure. jan.