Chad_A Posted December 29, 2006 Posted December 29, 2006 Or, does anyone know of an Alpha Comp Hoody on sale? I've looked around. Only the usual small and XL are available for less than 350 bucks. I'd like to try this out as opposed to a complete hardshell, to help rectify the usual problem of the bottom of the jacket raising up when I swing ice tools overhead. I've also heard that some people use a strap through the crotch to hold their jacket down. I can't seem to find an affordable Arcteryx item. If someone has an alternative that they use, please post it. Of if they have a size L Alpha Comp they want to sell in good shape....??? Quote
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 29, 2006 Posted December 29, 2006 I've been looking at the beyondfleece stuff, but haven't heard anything about how they hold up. They look nice, and with my lanky ass it would be nice to buy something that fit. Check 'em out: www.beyondfleece.com Quote
hemp22 Posted December 29, 2006 Posted December 29, 2006 (edited) If you happen to be a size S or XL, there are some on sale for 50% off at backcountryoutlet.com But otherwise, I'd second the recommendation for Beyond Fleece. I've had one of their Schoeller soft shells for a couple years, wear it pretty much everywhere, and it's still in great shape. and the customization is hard to beat. Edited December 31, 2006 by jon Quote
powderhound Posted December 30, 2006 Posted December 30, 2006 The beyondfleecs is sweet you can customize it and that makes the price different dpending if your want pockets in different spots. You can do it on the web and see what it looks like before you sumbit it to them to make for you. Quote
dbconlin Posted December 30, 2006 Posted December 30, 2006 I don't think Beyond Fleece is offering a hybrid jacket, unless you consider the WB stuff to be the 'hardshell' part and I think that stuff is heavy. I have had my Alpha Comp out on a few trips now, and I like it a lot. I think Mammut is making a hybrid jacket, but it is relatively heavy. Quote
Baltoro Posted December 30, 2006 Posted December 30, 2006 I just got an REI Aegis jacket that is appearently not available any longer (I tried to find one for my dad) but I imagine we'll see a new version for next year. It is 3 layer stretch Elements (REI's WB material) on the hood, shoulders, top of the arms and cuffs, as well as on the hips. The rest of the jacket is a very stretchy softshell material. It is basically an Alpha Comp Hoody that is actually lighter and way cheaper (retail $169). Granted the overall quality is nothing I'd imagine compared to Arc'Teryx but what is. The seams are all welded, reverse coil zippers, no pit zips. The hood could stand to be a bit bigger to accomodate a helmet but mine is a touch small on me and I think it's my fault, not the jackets. If you aren't in a hurry it might be worth waiting for. Or call the Seattle Flagship store at noon on a Saturday and have them track one down at a store on the other side of the country. If they pick up the phone! Enjoy! Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted December 30, 2006 Posted December 30, 2006 My arcteryx hardshell (theta ar) is cut so well that the waist doesnt hardly lift at all when I raise my arm. If you look for the right fit, stretch isn't so important. I also have a bunch of softshells, but lately have preferred the hardshell for ice climbing. Quote
dbconlin Posted December 31, 2006 Posted December 31, 2006 (edited) Baltoro's post reminded me of the REI Taku jacket. Hybrid jacket that weighs same as Arteryx Alpha Comp (18 oz). $199. Outside magazine Gear of the Year Award Winner!!!! for what that is worth. Ugly though. I tried one on once and the fit wasn't for me, but maybe for you. Edited December 31, 2006 by dbconlin Quote
Chad_A Posted December 31, 2006 Author Posted December 31, 2006 Cool, thanks much for all the posts. Good to hear that there's some nice alternatives out there. Also looking at this (Ready Mix jacket): Anybody own one? Fits really well, no jacket-lift with arms overhead, and pretty light (14oz). 199 bucks, or less for me at local retailers here with my PRG discount. Quote
dbconlin Posted January 1, 2007 Posted January 1, 2007 I have the hoodless version. It is excellent. I really debated between the Ready Mix and the Alpha Comp Hoody. It is kind of a tossup, but I went with the hybrid. The material Patagonia uses sheds weather really well, is very wind-proof, very breathable, and dries fast (and light, as you mentioned). If you want to go full softshell, this would be my top choice. It is not hybrid though. My only quibbles are with the cuff tabs. Also, it is not very stretchy, but do you really need it to be? It fits close. Quote
Chad_A Posted January 1, 2007 Author Posted January 1, 2007 No, not really. Thanks for the reply. It just seems to have longer than average arm length, and a generous length, while still having the "athletic cut" that I appreciate. For shits and giggles, stopped by the US Outdoor store today to check out the Alpha Comp. Sadly, it doesn't fit me (Arms are too short). Not so bummed about the Ready Mix being a full softshell; from what you've said, it sounds like it does what I'm looking for in a jacket. Quote
dbconlin Posted January 1, 2007 Posted January 1, 2007 That is interesting what you said about the arms. My Figure 4 (hoodless Ready Mix) seems to have about the same length arms as the Alpha Comp. The Alpha Comp has baggier arms though. Other than that, I find they fit about the same. The Patagonia might be a tad snugger in the chest/torso. I wonder if the Figure 4 and Ready Mix are cut slightly differently..? Quote
Chad_A Posted January 1, 2007 Author Posted January 1, 2007 It might be a simple result of the same size being different in two different brands. The L Alpha Comp Hoody fit great in the Torso, but the arms were a tad short. I'm 6' even, and my ape index is about even, as well. The L Ready Mix has much longer arms; it's a tad big for me in the torso, but I don't mind that, so long as it STAYS DOWN WHEN I LIFT THE ARMS (pet peeve). Could be I'm comparing apples to oranges. If I see a Figure Four on the rack when I'm at the store this week, I'll try that on as well. Might, in fact, be cut different. Quote
fern Posted January 2, 2007 Posted January 2, 2007 I just got a Beyond Fleece softshell hoody. It is nice, but has several features that indicate to me it was not designed by a climber. I had to return mine to get the sleeves lengthened, because when I raised my arms up they pulled about 2" down my wrists (despite adding some extra length to the measurements I provided them), even with the extra length now, they are 'just' long enough, and there is still a bit of 'stretchy' type resistance when I reach up to make a high swing with my ice tools. The front handwarmer pockets are situated such that my harness blocks them. And there are barrel locks sewn into the bottom hem on either side - which are going to be painful and probably wear holes in the fabric if I do any climbing where I scum my hip against the wall, or fall over on ice or whatever. Quote
letsroll Posted January 2, 2007 Posted January 2, 2007 fern I am looking a going with Beyond Fleece. I am tall and skinny so the custom fit would be nice. On thier fitting area they have a choice for Technical fit as well if you wanted the sleeves to fit over the hand. Did you do these options? Quote
fern Posted January 2, 2007 Posted January 2, 2007 I followed their measurement guidelines and was generous with the sleeve length, and when I got it the sleeves were 2" short of my needs. I sent it back, they fixed it per their right-fit guarantee. I think it is good value in a softshell jacket if you are a build that does not fit the typical ready-to-wear shapes and sizes. It is not my ideal jacket in terms of small details, but so far I have been happy with it and I like it better than what I could have bought for the same price at MEC (eg. the Hijinx softshell jacket) Quote
rhyang Posted January 2, 2007 Posted January 2, 2007 Picked up a Ready Mix at a Patagonia online clearance sale this fall for 50% off. I'm really happy with it thus far for winter stuff. Guideschoice.com has them in sale right now too. Quote
kurthicks Posted January 2, 2007 Posted January 2, 2007 Also looking at this (Ready Mix jacket): Anybody own one? Yes. My favorite jacket. light, almost windproof, dries fast, packs small, durable, fits over a helmet, etc. It won't do rain or a heavy fog well, however, so be aware if you're climbing in poor conditions. Quote
bigwallpete Posted January 3, 2007 Posted January 3, 2007 Check out the Mountain Hardwear Torch Jacket. This thing is sweet, made out of Gore Windstopper it uses welded seam technolgy to create a piece that only has stitching on the bottom hem and in the hood(but it is seam taped with ultra thin tape). This technology works because it doesnt put any holes in the fabric to leak through. Worn it for the last 2 years in the Coast Mountains (Ice, skiing, bugaboos(rock)) It works because it is super breathable and waterproof by design eventhough Mtnhw is not aloud to say that based upon Goretex's rules. Give it a shot and best of all its relatively cheap. Quote
Chad_A Posted January 3, 2007 Author Posted January 3, 2007 Have you tried the MH synchro hoody? Hmm, no, haven't seen that one yet. Still haven't bought anything yet, so I'll take a look at that as well. Quote
Chad_A Posted January 3, 2007 Author Posted January 3, 2007 Check out the Mountain Hardwear Torch Jacket. This thing is sweet, made out of Gore Windstopper it uses welded seam technolgy to create a piece that only has stitching on the bottom hem and in the hood(but it is seam taped with ultra thin tape). This technology works because it doesnt put any holes in the fabric to leak through. Worn it for the last 2 years in the Coast Mountains (Ice, skiing, bugaboos(rock)) It works because it is super breathable and waterproof by design eventhough Mtnhw is not aloud to say that based upon Goretex's rules. Give it a shot and best of all its relatively cheap. Will take a look at this too. Quote
Chad_A Posted January 3, 2007 Author Posted January 3, 2007 Thanks for the continual input on the jackets. Looking forward to picking something up tonight... Quote
counterfeitfake Posted January 3, 2007 Posted January 3, 2007 There's one for sale in John Frieh's never-ending megathread Quote
UncleJamsArmy Posted January 4, 2007 Posted January 4, 2007 I have the Ready Mix and its predecessor, Stretch Krushell. Probably the best jackets I have, and also the least expensive. I tend to sweat like a pig no matter the temperature, and these jackets keep the sweat at least manageable, pretty good at cutting the wind, and also provide some abrasion resistance. I have other softshell jackets that do the last two things more or less the same, but I am completely soaked from my own sweat because they don't breathe as well as the Ready Mix and Krushell (e.g., Arc'teryx Gamma MX). Quote
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