GUNKS - Suggested climbs please?

[Kraken]

I'm a really big fan of the Dropkick Murphys. For those of you who don't know who they are, basically they're an Irish punk band with a reputation for throwing some of the biggest shows on St Patty's Day in Boston. I've been saying for several years that I should go see them, especially in Boston, so this year I finally owned up and followed through. My buddies and I are all flying from AK to Bwaaastuhn for St. Patty's Day and have a few days on either end to kill. We're in Boston, might as well hit up the Gunks! I've never been there before, would love to spend at least 2 days there.

 

I'll bring all the trad gear, so I was wondering if anyone could suggest some of the best routes out there. Anywhere up to midrange 5.10 sounds good for starters. I've heard of Ant's Corner and the Dangler...beyond that, I'm a newbzor. Sport or trad, no difference, but would prefer to do more placing than clipping. Help me out. Help me accomplish more than drinking myself retarded for 8 consecutive days in Boston.

Thanks.

[ZimZam]

If you open the climbing page there's a piece on Graham and Cilo. Lots of beta.

http://www.gunks.com

 

 

[wfinley]

You aren't going to be doing any clipping at the Gunks!

 

St. Paddy's Day at New Paltz will be cold as balls. Anything where you'll need fingers will hurt to no end, If you're dead set on Feb. rock routes stick to the easy routes with big holds and big roofs like Shockleys, Horseman and High Exposure. Grab Todd Swain's guidebook and just climb routes with two or more stars.

 

PS - I would suggest skipping the Gunks and driving to North Conway for ice. North Conway is 3 hours away from Boston; New Paltz is about 3 1/2 hrs from Boston.

[powderhound]

First there are no sport routes in the gunks.

 

Second the cliffs seap like no ones business. So if there is any rain then a lot of the routes are out of commuission. I would recomend:

 

M.F. 5.9

Harvest Moon 5.11

Dangler kinda sucks

Bonnies Roof 5.9 do the variation through the second pitch @ 5.10

High E

 

[wfinley]

BTW -- Clint I have rock & ice guidebooks for the NE if you want to borrow them.

[Kraken]

pardon my newbism regarding NE climbing, but will there still be lots of good ice in mid-late March? Rock will still be too cold? Either way, I'm game for anything I guess. We're going to the East coast for a concert/partying with friends, but any climbing will be a bonus.

[TimL]

I've climbed there in March in nice conditions. You just have to pick the right days.

 

Must do routes:

 

Bonnies Roof

Ants Line

High Exposure

CCK

Lime Light

Arrow

Dangler.

 

There are so many good routes that are side by side. You can get a lot done in a couple days.

 

For ice the Dacks arn't that far. March should be OK.

 

 

Edited December 24, 2006 by TimL

[cynicalwoodsman]

The gunks 'r da first place I ever plugged gear 'n still the most fun I ever had climbin' a 5.6. F'get 'bout 5.10. If you never climbed in the NE b'fore yer in fer sum hard grades... 'specially if'n yer tawwggin' da Gunx.

 

Horseman

CCK

High Exposure

All must must must-do's!

Hell even 3-Pines at 5.3 is still a steep fun route 'n duh third pitch is classic gunks exposure!

 

Like these guys 'r sayin'... watch the weather. If it's nice® go climb rock. If it's still cold, go to da Daks 'n git yerself sum uv da best Ice anywhere!

 

Dropkick Murphy kicks butt.

[toast2586]

Ooo, better hope it stays above freezing! your gonna be freezing your fingers off!

 

There's a great shop called Rock and Snow in New Paltz conveniently on the way to the Gunks that will let you borrow a copy of "The Climbers Guide to the Shawangunks" by Dick Williams, its an excellent guide and Dick is often found at the gunks. Also, be sure to check out the 40% off room and and section inwhich Jesus Saves at Rock and Snow.

 

Also, now that I've left the east cost, I hear there is some pretty amazing ice climbing all over. I know Katterskill Falls freezes in the winter (massive double waterfall of awesomeness). But if your ever at a loss for things to do/places to go, just hit up Rock and Snow and they'll hook you up!

 

P.S. Dropkick Murpheys + Boston + Booze + St. Patty's Day = Fucking Awesome!!!!

[RuMR]

march is some of the best climbing times around...

 

anyway, regarding grades, they are no worse than old skool areas around here...

[ZimZam]

NE Ice conditions: http://www.neice.com

[Allison Berg]

Gunks in March will probably be cold, but I've climbed in March. It just depends on if the sun is out or not. 5.10 is a serious grade at the gunks, I suggest starting w/ 7's, 8's and working up, especially if you're not used to trad. Pick up Dick William's Guide at Rock & Snow in New Paltz. Some of my favorite routes:

Jackie 5.5

Madame G's 5.6

High E 5.6

Classic 5.7

Limelight 5.7

Laurel 5.7

Absurdland 5.8

Son of Easy O 5.8

Pas de Deux 5.8

Birdland 5.8

Apoplexy 5.9

Roseland 5.9

Never Never Land 5.10a

 

Have fun if you go! I'm jealous!

[andyf]

Based on my Gunks experience (all of two days' worth):

 

Ant's Line--seemed more like 5.8 than 5.9 to me. Bomber gear. You can TR a nice 5.11 on the left wall from the anchor.

 

MF--seemed more like 5.10 than 5.9 to me.

 

Coexistence--seemed more like 5.11 than 5.10 to me. Quality, athletic moves.

 

High E w/ direct start--second pitch has maybe the pumpiest 30' of 5.9 I've ever climbed.

 

Birdland--very nice face climbing (steep slab), a little spicy in places. Was maybe my favorite route.

[Otto]

Double Chin, 5.6, I believe. It's been quite a while, all I really remember was two chins and how fun they were!

[ZimZam]

It's to bad you can't come tomorrow. The forecast is for highs 65-70! WTF???

[mattp]

What about Modern Times? A "moderate" at 5.8, it overhangs nearly 30 feet in 30 vertical, if I am properly interpreting the photo's. Has anybody here done this one?

[132435465768]

the last pitch of Mod. times is awesome. don't forget to stop at Baby and get a good laugh watching all the visiting "hard core" climbers getting spanked on a 5.6 ow

 

Gelsa- overhanging 5.4!

Broken Sling .8+

Easy Rider .9 this an 11 pitch traverse that finishes on Gelsa and that stays dry in light rain

Grand Central .9-

 

[Gunks]

Double Chin goes at 5.5 - but it is "exciting". Baby is one of the best 5.6's in the Gunks - along w/ High Exposure and Madame G's. If you're looking for something interesting at a low grade try sixish (5.4). It definitely feels like 5.6. Gelsa is another great climb at 5.4. In fact if you're gonna hang out over in the Near Trapps (where Gelsa is), also try Yellow Ridge(5.7), Disneyland (5.6), Te Dum (5.7), Birdland(5.8), Broken Sling(5.8). I have lots more info about specific climbs if you have questions.

[Bill Slugg]

TimL

I would like to second your nominations of:

 

High Exposure

CCK

Lime Light

Arrow

 

I did these in the 70's. I have particularly fond memories of Arrow. I just remember that it was absolutely straight up.