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AJ

Roadtrip Suggestions

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I'm planning a one-week (9-10 days) roadtrip the first week of September. I'll be travelling with my wife and a couple friends. We are interested in mostly easier/moderate cragging (5.10 and below) and maybe a couple easier long routes/peaks (one day, maybe a short overnight at most). Trad or sport, boulder, whatever - we dabble in all disciplines. Not looking to impress anyone, just have some fun and allow enough time to relax (it is a vacation after all).

The general idea is to head north from Seattle (home), get to Canada and head east until the Banff area, then south through northern Idaho and on home. About the only place I'm planning to go for sure is Skaha (never been there) and Banff (never been there either). Actually the only place I've ever climbed in Canada is Squamish. So, any suggestions?

Beyond climbing - does anyone have suggestions for "must sees or must do's"?

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Go to Nelson, climb the south ridge of Gimli Pk. Forget the 50 classics, that thing is gotta be N. american top 10.

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I agree with Dru, Gimli rules. 2 hour approach, 6-8 pitches of 5.7 to 5.9 on a stellar arete and no one around. Nelson is a pretty cool place to spend some time as well. Stay at the Dancing Bear Hostel if you're there.

If you're in Idaho the Sawtooths definitely deserve a visit, more beautiful alpine rock. Elphants Perch and Finger of Fate are the standard classics with routes in the grade III-IV 5.8 to 5.10 range. Approaches are short day backpacks to beautiful alpine lakes. Enjoy!

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I get tired of Skaha after 2-3 days- the routes feel a lot alike, the holds just get smaler and the rock steep as they get harder. And those damn steps jsut keep getting steeper.

Must do's at Skaha: Plumline, Sport + .5 Camalot (bring 2 ropes) 5.9, Double Exposure (trad) 5.puckering.8, Assholes of August trad 5.9, almost any of the routes at Grassy Glades. I also had a lot of fun on a 5.7 called Granola Bar on Blipvert tower/Fern Gully (sport + small TCU or 2). Great lead for newbie leaders.

If you don't stay at the Waterpark (cheap and close, but ugh), I'd recommend a place called Branbury Green RV park ,which is on the highway a ways South before you get to Penticton proper. It's spendier, but the owner is cool and will work with a group on rates, the lakefront camping is awesome and the facilities are realy nice.

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Check out the Icefields Parkway between Lake Louise and Jasper. It would take a day but it is a great drive with lots to stop and look at along the way. Enjoy.

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quote:

Originally posted by Wopper:

Check out the Icefields Parkway between Lake Louise and Jasper. It would take a day but it is a great drive with lots to stop and look at along the way. Enjoy.

And you can climb Andromeda, Athabasca, Alberta, Snow Dome...pee on the summit and watch it flow into all three oceans!

 

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Originally posted by fredrogers:

I get tired of Skaha after 2-3 days- the routes feel a lot alike,

I have been here ALOT, and would agree up untill you break out of 5.10. Many of the .11s are quite varied and some overhung on jugs. There is also some great "trad face climbing" (not much true crack).

2 poitnts of beta:

-as of last weekend the climbers campground described in the guide that I have gone to for years is now off limits frown.gif

-The best place for dinner is Theo's. Agreek place in town.

 

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Try Stone Hill Montana.

Go South on highway 93 from Radium BC (on the way home from Banff) to Eureka Montana (5 miles South of the border). Turn right at the intersection at the North end of town. Drive for 25 minutes or so until you see a very large bridge crossing lake Kocanusa. Stay left at the intersection leading to the bridge and continue South for about three miles. If in doubt, you're not there.

Climbing is similar to Skaha, but with few crowds, free camping, lots of swimming in the lakes and an overall laid back attitude about the place. Pure fun. Vast amounts of potential in the area. Heard there's bolts there now, but we found RP's very useful.

The weather is usually much better there than Banff.

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I agree with Mr. Rogers. The routes at Ska ha tend to get boring there after a couple days, ever the harder ones. If its your first time at the area, you should have a blast. The contributing factor to Mr. Rogers and I being bored is we were rained out from Squamish. Although a little spendy, Branbury greens is a great place to stay. Its the water, faily quiet and has showers. The Hogs Breath is a great cafe to have coffee and breakfeast in the morning. The owner is a really cool person. 2 of my favorites bolted lines are Dr. Megatrip at Dr.s Wall and Wings of Desire at Great White Wall (all time classic). Mrs. Palmer and Gang Bang are good gear lines at the Great White Wall. Plumbline is a must do. Enjoy!

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AJ, September is a good time of year to hit the Wind River Range in Wyoming. Go into Cirque of the Towers for a few days, it is an easy 8 mile hike in to a spectacular alpine basin where you can do some easy routes and some hard routes, if inspired, or just loaf around if not. I have the guidebook at my house if you want to come over and check it out some...

Alex

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Here's your trip itinerary all planned out:

1) leave Seattle drive to Marble Canyon.

2) climb Dreamweaver or crag at Lower Wall

3) drive to Skaha, climb

4-5) 2more days at Skaha

6) drive to Nelson, acquire herbage from some trustafarian on a street corner smokindevil.gif , drive to camp in Slocan

7) climb south ridge of Gimli, drive to Stone Hill

8) climb Stone Hill

9) climb half-day stone hill, drive to central washington

10) climb some central wa. stuff, drive home.

This gives you a good mix of Limestone, Granite, Gneiss and Basalt, sport and trad (mostly trad), lots of variety and you never have to deal with the dreaded Canmore Wannabe Guide Poseurs...

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hippie.gifsmash.gif

Hit a hippie in Nelson!!!!

[This message has been edited by Dru (edited 07-25-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Dru (edited 07-25-2001).]

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Le Petit Dru climbs

like the hippie in Nelson--

higher and higher

A haiku for you Dru.

[This message has been edited by Matt (edited 07-25-2001).]

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