[TR] 21 Hours in Hyalite- 11/4/2006

[kurthicks]

Climb: 21 Hours in Hyalite- Dielectric, Over Easy, G2, Hangover, Lower Greensleeves

 

Date of Climb: 11/4/2006

 

Trip Report:

With the horrendous weather forecast, Matt (NYC007) and I decided to escape the northwest by heading to Hyalite…for the day. After driving the 400 miles on Friday from Spokane we arrived at the trailhead in the dark. We were psyched as we could see a bunch of routes illuminated by the full moon. Soon we were packed up and off to the Genesis area. G1 was lean and very wet, so we did Lower Greensleeves to start the season…by headlamp. After a couple laps we decided to call it a night, but apparently Matt still needed a little more of a pump.

 

Matt getting some last minute training in.

 

We got up at 6am and were soon chatting with locals about conditions. We decided to head up to the Corner Climbs to do some mixed stuff, but they were out of condition. Eventually we ended up in the Slot Corner area. We started on Over Easy, a nice WI3 that led to a manky bolt anchor. Curtains was a sketchy pillar, so we skipped it.

 

Me leading Over Easy

 

Then I went looking for other climbs up there and I soon found Dielectric Breakdown, mistaking it for Slot Corner (which isn’t in). A party was just finishing it up and the route looked great. After they were down, I lead up. Pumpy, but easier at WI5 instead of 5+ like the guide suggests. Highly recommended!

 

Me leading a fat Dielectric Breakdown

 

With daylight to spare we headed back to the parking lot, grabbed some food, and headed up to G2. Matt lead the driest line up the center to a tree belay below the top step since the ice wasn’t very good up top.

 

Matt leading G2.

 

We finished the day on Hangover (still quite thin) and got back to the car at dark. Uneventful driving, did I mention that the road is almost entirely snow free?!, got us to Bozeman and I-90. 400 more miles home…

 

 

The climbs won't last long if these warm temperatures keep up. Lots of stuff fell down yesterday.

 

Hope everyone had a good weekend in the gym!

 

Gear Notes:

Ice gear

 

Approach Notes:

Subaru. Very little snow on the road

[powderhound]

Then I went looking for other climbs up there and I soon found Dielectric Breakdown, mistaking it for Slot Corner (which isn’t in). A party was just finishing it up and the route looked great. After they were down, I lead up. Pumpy, but easier at WI5 instead of 5+ like the guide suggests. Highly recommended!

 

Kurt would agree that it was not WI5+ conditions, however, that climb is in fatter then when it ever has been climbed previously. Not sure if the previous party's got to put any gear in at all. I am glad you enjoyed it, surpirsied that you didn't go up and do Land of the Lost, an awsome climb. Hope to see you back out in Hyalite.

 

p.s. did you leave my biner up there or did you snag it.

[kurthicks]

Booty!

 

Nice to meet you. I'll let you know when I'm coming back over. No Land of the lost for us -- I was too pumped after doing Dielectric to consider leading anything else for a little while.

[TeleRoss]

sweet!

[scottgg]

Nice Man! Those new tools look sweet!

[mountainmatt]

Nice work! Can't wait to get on the ice myself

[Chad_A]

Very cool.

 

Do you just keep an eye on Bozeman for the forecast, or is the Hyalite Canyon higher elevation? Never been there.

 

Looks to be generally warm there this week, and then cold again (not enough time to reform for next weekend). Dammit!

[p_tapley]

...and headed up to G2. Matt lead the driest line up the center to a tree belay below the top step since the ice wasn’t very good up top.

 

fwiw, that tree (complete with it's fixed slings) was laying on the ground at the base of the pitch late yesterday afternoon.

[kurthicks]

We saw that tree on Saturday too. It looks like it fell quite recently. We rapped off a smaller slung tree off to the left of the last step. I think the tree halfway up Hangover will suffer the same fate relatively soon.

 

Double check your anchors before using them, even if they are huge trees!

[NYC007]

it was good to meet ya Powderhound.. Hopefully the ice survives this warm spell.. Saw some fellas on Zack Attack on sat. looks fun.!!

[Lambone]

yo p_tapley,

 

wish I was there ripping it with you bro, keep it real and climb one fo J.

 

peace,

matt

[p_tapley]

yo p_tapley,

 

wish I was there ripping it with you bro, keep it real and climb one fo J.

 

 

peace,

matt

 

so when you coming out? gimme a call fkr.

[Skisports]

Thanks for the rain guys.... You washington folks always melt our ice. In missoula its 60 degrees and raining its wonderful. (yeah right)

[dbconlin]

man, wish I had seen ice like that anytime recently. way to go!

[powderhound]

http://www.montanaice.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=574

 

Pictures from the same day Just right before Kurt got on Diaelctric, and my buddy trevor on magically delicious.

[John Frieh]

[pimp]

[/pimp]

 

Nice toolz dude... are those for sale?!?

[powderhound]

Nope, since I have started swuinging them,, I love them. They were great on steep ice and I was getting less pumped then my buddies that followed with leashess.

[billcoe]

Nope, since I have started swuinging them,, I love them. They were great on steep ice and I was getting less pumped then my buddies that followed with leashess.

 

I think Bryon is saying that if you want to buy them back, you will now have to pay a premium.

 

John, wasn't that some stuff you dug out of the excess gear pile in your house and sold?

 

Great ice pics. It will come back soon, they say the freezing level is dropping around here tomorrow to 3500', should hit Montana next.