IsaacJen Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 Yes. MCash is correct. The first bolt (which I think was installed within the last 1-2 yrs) sets high off the ground and you move thru a funky alcove section. Loose rock seems to be the norm in that area?? Jennifer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 The first bolt (which I think was installed within the last 1-2 yrs) Hey pink chalk, I climbed that route about 10 years ago and that bolt was there. You doing OK? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted November 1, 2006 Author Share Posted November 1, 2006 Yes. MCash is correct. The first bolt (which I think was installed within the last 1-2 yrs) sets high off the ground and you move thru a funky alcove section. Loose rock seems to be the norm in that area?? Jennifer I'm not sure what Isaac did when he led that pitch, but what I did was basically stay in the chimney and reach up high to clip the bolts. Because you use counter force and stemming in the chimney, there is less chance that a broken hold will cause a fall. It also may be that the inside of the chimney has seen more feet over the years than the arete on the outside. Without those bolts, the only protection one would get would be a chockstone 1/3 of the way up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IsaacJen Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 Kevbone (aka Freeforsum) I must be getting that confused with another bolt / route. I remember BenP talking about a new bolt or something that Markd installed within the last couple years...? maybe it was a route... cant remember, but Im pretty sure it was same general area. dunno. Must be the meds talking I'm doing fine. Very sore, but moving around seems to be improving. Just certain positions or movements cause it to flare. Tell Mags I will call her tonight... I asked in a previous post about that area being prone to loose rock? Another group on rapel had a ton of rock fall. Like I mentioend on the phone, it was a war zone. Bucket is a must! Jennifer aka pink chalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sherri Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 Best wishes for a speedy recovery, Jennifer. Sorry to hear about the accident. That's a painful souvenir for 5 feet of air-time! I was at Smith over the weekend, too, but seemed to be spared all the trauma drama that CBS witnessed. Admittedly, I did drop a quickdraw from the second pitch of Cinnamon Slab that day--thankfully it hit dirt instead of somebody's noggin. I didn't drop any girls, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mon_Col Posted November 2, 2006 Share Posted November 2, 2006 Later that afternoon we saw a rescue truck pull up in the parking lot and a rescue team head out with a backboard. I was wondering if anyone knows anything about a late afternoon accident. On Sunday I talked to some people who had just seen a climber take a lead fall in which his helmet was knocked off. I saw someone with a bloody head being taken away by a park ranger on an ATV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Phil Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 She started into a story about how the previous week, some other climbers had told her to shut up. In her loud, irritating, nasal voice she related how she told them that they couldn't tell HER to shut up. On and on. I started to mutter under my breath, "here are a couple more climbers who are going to tell you to shut the fuck up". My partner stopped me from making a scene. I wanted to so badly. A number of folks feel the same way about you, CBS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 A number of folks feel the same way about you, CBS. Is it me or do others think Phil's post seems random, rude and uncalled for? ______________________________________________ Pink - hope the cheek is feeling better. Surprising that theres still loose rock there after all these years, but of course it is Smith. I almost killed Jim Anglin when our trailing rope pulled a flake at the top of the 3rd pitch belay on Zebra-Zion. It use to be my favorite route there, but I haven't done it since as it's so crowded underneath that thing any more. One of my best falling efforts was @ a lead fall 25-30 footer on an FA that looked to be total air but ended when both the rope tightened/piece held simutanious to my right ass-cheek smacking the only ledge @ 5 feet below my belayer. It made a curious bruise later that was an exact replica of an archery target, replete with alternating rings of purple and yellow that for some stange reason my wife found utterly hilarious and engaging. Thanks for the reports CBS et al, great pics Mark! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 CBS is a good guy. Phil's post here is much like most of his posts, which is why he's in my killfile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 wilbur climbing the first ascent of another unnamed crack. Mark - if this is a photo of a FA, how did the chalk get on the crack above the climber? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted November 10, 2006 Author Share Posted November 10, 2006 She started into a story about how the previous week, some other climbers had told her to shut up. In her loud, irritating, nasal voice she related how she told them that they couldn't tell HER to shut up. On and on. I started to mutter under my breath, "here are a couple more climbers who are going to tell you to shut the fuck up". My partner stopped me from making a scene. I wanted to so badly. A number of folks feel the same way about you, CBS. This whole episode has as much to do about me as it did about her. I was racking up to do a pitch that was close to my lead limit without some of the gear I would have preferred to have. I was trying to get my head in the game, trying to focus on what I was doing, get psyched up. I was having a hard time doing this with this constant stream of chatter. I'm a pretty polite guy most of the time. This was one of those times when I was sorely tested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 NICE PICS MARKD. MORE PICS PLEASE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 wilbur climbing the first ascent of another unnamed crack. Mark - if this is a photo of a FA, how did the chalk get on the crack above the climber? I'm only specumalating here, but perhaps the route was worked before it was sent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted November 10, 2006 Author Share Posted November 10, 2006 Come on, just because it has chalk fingerprints all over it, you start "speculating"! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 On Sunday we saw a belayer almost drop a climber after he yelled take and leaned back without verifying his belayer was ready. Shouldn't have to verify anything, IMO. If you are on belay, you should be on belay... That said, if you have the time, it's not such a bad idea to wait for acknowledgement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 On Sunday we saw a belayer almost drop a climber after he yelled take and leaned back without verifying his belayer was ready. Shouldn't have to verify anything, IMO. If you are on belay, you should be on belay... That said, if you have the time, it's not such a bad idea to wait for acknowledgement. I agree, but all too often I see teams at crags have the following script: The climber reaches the anchor, clips in, and says: "OK, OFF BELAY" "OK, YOUR BELAY IS OFF", his belayer responds, and proceeds to take the rope out of the belay device, or feeds several arm-lengths of slack out and lets go of the rope. A few minutes pass by as the climber unties from the rope, threads it through the anchor, and carefully reties back into the end. "OK, TAKE", the climber calls out. Wait a minute, my internal monkey cries out. Didn't he say "OFF BELAY" a few minutes ago? This new command results in any number of scenarios, some as disastrous as you can imagine. I've watched belayers scramble to suck in slack and re-thread ropes into belay devices. I've witnessed people getting dropped, near dropped, and die. Another reason I get scared climbing at crowded crags. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 Despite our best efforts, Canadians did not have any real epics this weekend. Except for the guy who took 5 hours to climb the Pioneer Route bolt ladder in the snowstorm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted November 15, 2006 Author Share Posted November 15, 2006 What? No bivies on Superslab? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 I tried as hard as I could, but no Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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