catbirdseat Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 MCash and I were at Smith this weekend. On Saturday, we witnessed a minor accident on Sky Chimney resulting in a possible broken tailbone. A woman following had a hold break off in her hand. A combination of pendulum and/or rope stretch allowed her to fall approximately 10 ft. She was able to walk out under her own power. On Sunday we saw a belayer almost drop a climber after he yelled take and leaned back without verifying his belayer was ready. Fortunately, he was caught after a 10 foot drop. Later that afternoon we saw a rescue truck pull up in the parking lot and a rescue team head out with a backboard. I was wondering if anyone knows anything about a late afternoon accident. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 how uplifting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 Smith Rock: the outdoor climbing gym! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted October 31, 2006 Author Share Posted October 31, 2006 On that note I'll tell you a story. We were gearing up to lead Toys in the Attic and there was a group next to us from Seattle Vertical World. There was this redhead chick sitting on a boulder with a camera talking in a loud voice to anyone who would listen and those who would not. She started into a story about how the previous week, some other climbers had told her to shut up. In her loud, irritating, nasal voice she related how she told them that they couldn't tell HER to shut up. On and on. I started to mutter under my breath, "here are a couple more climbers who are going to tell you to shut the fuck up". My partner stopped me from making a scene. I wanted to so badly. Anyway, my overall impression was that the local folks at Smith were, by and large, cool people. The trad climbers especially were very supportive and happy to provide beta. The most irritating people, by far, were the ones from my home town of Seattle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Checat Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 Anyway, my overall impression was that the local folks at Smith were, by and large, cool people. The trad climbers especially were very supportive and happy to provide beta. The most irritating people, by far, were the ones from my home town of Seattle. YEAH!! Mad props to Oregon Traddies!!! Its a tough state to get by if Trad is your poison. Having to hike all that much around the park, and take 'sporto-mace' to fend off the hordes. I have met a lot of cool trad climbers from Seattle to though. Stuck under roofs at Index probably builds a little bit of the same camradry... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
selkirk Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 Trad climbers as a whole seem to be a pretty good bunch. It seems to take a slightly more mellow demeanor. Being arrogant and overly aggressive on gear just gets you hurt. First time I was down there we saw a belayer nearly get the chop. The leader kicked off a coffee table sized flake that landed about 4 ft away from his belayer. She wasn't wearing a helmet, but I think in this case it wouldn't have helped anyway. Same trip we say a guy teach his buddy how to belay with a grigri and 45 seconds later start up 5 Gallon Jugs (which based on his shaking legs and wide eyes was near his lead limit). My wife asked him how the free solo was when he got down. Some seriously sketchy practices go on down there. CBS, how was New Testament by the way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted October 31, 2006 Author Share Posted October 31, 2006 Trad climbers as a whole seem to be a pretty good bunch. It seems to take a slightly more mellow demeanor. Being arrogant and overly aggressive on gear just gets you hurt. First time I was down there we saw a belayer nearly get the chop. The leader kicked off a coffee table sized flake that landed about 4 ft away from his belayer. She wasn't wearing a helmet, but I think in this case it wouldn't have helped anyway. Same trip we say a guy teach his buddy how to belay with a grigri and 45 seconds later start up 5 Gallon Jugs (which based on his shaking legs and wide eyes was near his lead limit). My wife asked him how the free solo was when he got down. Some seriously sketchy practices go on down there. CBS, how was New Testament by the way? New Testament was good, but it's close to or at my lead limit, at least for Smith. That rock is different and takes some getting used to. Part of that is the climbing itself and part of it the gear and trusting it. Sounds like your wife is quite a wag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Checat Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 Quote from selkirk: Being arrogant and overly aggressive on gear just gets you hurt. Being arrogant(to yourself) and overly aggressive on gear is what TRADS all about. If you were that worried about getting hurt you probably would be sport climbing (and you probably would be getting hurt, see threads above). I'd also fair to venture if you were being arrogant to others you probably would be sport climbing too, because most traddies are more worried about getting brown shorts on that ill-protected, old-school 5.9 crux; than frontin on other climbers ... at Smiff or any other spot in the state... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 Part of that is the climbing itself and part of it the gear and trusting it. Sounds like your wife is quite a wag. That's a fine climb. Where are the pics at?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 i love oregon trad! elusive and plentiful. clay cahoon put this one up during one of his visits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 I think Selkirk said it best. Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm...............Crack! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 Part of that is the climbing itself and part of it the gear and trusting it. Sounds like your wife is quite a wag. That's a fine climb. Where are the pics at?? I need to format the rest of them. Here's one of a Portland climber working Chain Reaction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 wilbur climbing the first ascent of another unnamed crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 becca on last chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 last chance is da shit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 gabe coler on the fa of bad day in compton. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IsaacJen Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 Hey... I'm the gal who fell on her ass at Smith over the weekend. Just to clarify, I think the fall was closer to 5 feet. Luckily, I am doing well thanks to the help of my climbing partners. I was able to hike out with some assistance and we headed back to P-town for treatment. The Doctor says I will live! ) Peace, Jennifer K. PS- Markd, sweet pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dechristo Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 were there offers to kiss it to make it better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 thanks jennifer. glad to hear your ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted October 31, 2006 Author Share Posted October 31, 2006 Jennifer, that's wonderful to hear. It's unfortunate that we couldn't make our acquaintance under more pleasant circumstances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 kevin on the fa of the pumper. yes, he is wearing a superman cape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IsaacJen Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 Offers? There was a mass line of dirt bag climbers looking to offer assistance My B/F was the lucky one! Although my toosh was sorely bruised. It was such a painful fall, doc says could be a month. Jennifer K. Catbirdseat: hope we didnt freak you guys out... falling rock, falling biners....... oh yeah, and falling girls. Hope you and your partner had a better weekend! Sounds like the park is becoming the glorified portland rock gym. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 Actually they were on the approach to White satin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted October 31, 2006 Share Posted October 31, 2006 jennifer, which pitch of white satin did you fall on? the second pitch is loose but i think most people these days, do the bolted variation to the left. this allows you to link pitches 2 and 3. good climb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted November 1, 2006 Share Posted November 1, 2006 It was that funky chimney on the first pitch. A hold blew off on the face next to the first bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.