violation of a trad climber

[erik]

headed to smif fer da weekend with a crew of ktk memebers.......

 

mission:

the female sport top phenomamon.......

 

all i can really say about that is aaaaahhhhhhHH!!!!!!!!!

 

now we did do some climbing....saw on the smif website that the cluster factor was to be extreme over the weekend......made the move to the XXXXXXX gorge and saw like um the people i was with and ummm the other people i was with.....while the main area was ummmm fawked!!!!

BEAUTIFUL ROUTES DOWN THERE IN XXXXXX gorge....dont tell though okay!!!

 

next day went over to the main area and found never a line to be had.....i guess that is why trad is ssooooo rad.....!!!!!!! granted i did do a bolted route and i would say it was quite fun...

 

one thing i really noticed is the over chalked holds are way more slimy then a bird shit fist jam..it is not even comparable. it almost made me want to use chalk.(shudder!!)

 

hope everyon e else had as much fun as i did this weekend!!!!!

[sketchfest]

I wouldn't say that the cluster factor was high it's just that everybody who was there was waiting for the same "classic". I would say that the rudeness factor was very high and if I see another boy scout, youth challange, drum beat'n, multiple route hoggin, rock chucking, pre-pubesent congregation, I'm gonna go postal.

[Country_Jake]

I ran into so trouble on my adventure... Tryed to go climb Dog rock and phantum bridge, just NE of Detroit, OR..... but the F@#% Forrest Service hadn't cleared the road yet... I tryed to but there was just to many logs to cut, I only cleared about a couple hudered yards of road... sucks... Hey Erik, If you get into a position where there are just to many people a smith for ya, you should go check out the CR canyon just West of smith.... I'll give ya directions to a great climbing area if ya want them... in the 20+ times i've climbed their I have never seen anouther climber...

[erik]

ahh i have bever had an issues with yo's down at smif......i just love to watch all the little guys driven by numbers reducing their level of fun and the level of fun around them with their desire to be the skiinest hard crankin mofo out there......it is funny....

 

kick da rock, make you figure sequence out ungo bunga!!!

 

trad is rad!!!!

 

and jake email trhem to me, i;ll log it and go there next time.....

[max]

quote:

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Originally posted by erik:

ahh i have bever had an issues with yo's down at smif......i just love to watch all the little guys driven by numbers reducing their level of fun and the level of fun around them with their desire to be the skiinest hard crankin mofo out there......

---

I like this. Just a few days ago I was lamenting with my pal that people would rather have their name printed in the guide book next to some stupid climb with big numbers than an athetic, funb climb with low numbers. And that's sad. I think this big number attitude is what's behind ugly bolting and poor style.

 

Speaking of the weekend...

 

After work friday headed up boulder canyon with the above mentioned pal and did a AWESOME 3 pitch .9... It was so good I came back the next morning and did it again with another frined (rare for me to want to repeat a climb...) Bitty buttress. Awesome. Did some other great climbs in Dream Canyon, then at twilight, went and scoped Cosmosis (ruined my chance at a on-sight flash free red attempt). I'll try and muster some photos of this route... another awesome looking climb!

 

later

[erik]

sounds good max, glad you had some fun......

[erik]

sounds good max, glad you had some fun......

 

anyone else have fun this weekend??? lets hear about....

[TimL]

Great weekend at Leavenworth with a little bit of swimming up routes which to be expected in the spring. Sent Pumpline at Careno Crag. Awesome climb!

 

Since I neither consider myself as a hardcore gear or sport climber, I have a question for everyone. What would you consider slab climbing since it mostly involves bolts and run outs unlike that of a typically bolted sport climb or a gear protected crack? I never see very many people line up for or bitch about a good ole Leavenworth slab climb. Also, I never hear anyone ever boasting about slab climbing or exchanging move by move descriptions. Never seen any boy scout, youth challange, drum beat'n, multiple route hoggin, rock chucking, pre-pubesent congregation at the base. Maybe slab climbing is to weird. Spray away!

[rayborbon]

TimL,

 

They are all similar as in Blank. High stepping helps too. Fuckin nubbins on white lightning at Peshastin. Try that one on lead! I dont recommend it but it would be bold. I have done a fair amount of 5.10 slabs.

[max]

Slab! Love it! I guess I just claimed to go for the face stuff, but I'll augment my vote with a "slab". And about the lack of lines: yeah, anything that doesn't have a line of bolts and requires a little testicular fortitude seems to keep the crowds and gapers to a minimum. The thing that's so great about slab is the concentration, especially runout slab.

One thing I'm not so hot about slab climbs is that they often have obnoxious bolts, especially the new slabs. Too many bolts.

I think slab is anything that has very few positve holds or jams for the hands. The key word here is positive. Bad hands = squeeky feet and sweaty palms!

I used to hang out with a very sport-oriented climber. He called anytning less the vertical "slab"

[freeclimb9]

quote:

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Originally posted by TimL:

Also, I never hear anyone ever boasting about slab climbing

---

Slab spray:

I got the second ascent of Dancing in the Light at the Chief in '88. It's a wee bit runout. While we climbed, the first ascentionists waited, then queried us for our opinion back at the roadside. Their rappeling and scrubbing tactics had pissed some people off, apparently, and they wanted some positive re-enforcement, I think. We pointed out that there's potential for cratering into the forest if you fell on the first pitch. But the climbing was great. Has it been retro-bolted? At least the rack is light.

A much more terrifying climb, though a couple grades easier, is Mouth to Perhaps on Glacier Point Apron. There's two consectutive 5.9 pitches up high that have a total of one piece of protection; One pitch has a 1/4" bolt, the next has nothing. No positive holds. Gulp. But my favorite slabbage is Wily Javelina in Mendoza Canyon west of Tucson. I had many adrenaline rushes putting that one up, and I'm proud that others enjoy the route.

Is that enough spray?

[TimL]

Best slab pitch I've climbed is Off Duty on Duty Dome in Leavenworth. Really, really good.

 

Spray away.

[allison]

Got to see Erik with his shirt off several times (Lock up your daughters!), got to get rescued by the gallant Alpine K after I accidentally tossed my pack in the river (doh!), got to see SayJay in her little Betty sport top sewing up this nasty hard crack, and borrow her shoes while mine were drying after the river adventure, got to have lots of laughs and greasy breffies with the whole crew. Fun, fun, fun!

 

Oh, and I just counted the mozzy bites from Saturday in the gorge, I got 14 bites on my left calf and 11 on my right. Them there voracious bastards are hungry!

 

And then there's the Philosophy of Duh....but that's not mine to talk about....watch this space!

 

[ 04-15-2002, 05:35 PM: Message edited by: allison ]

[ScottP]

quote:

---

Originally posted by freeclimb9:

quote:

---

Originally posted by TimL:

[qb]Also, I never hear anyone ever boasting about slab climbing

---

(SNIP)A much more terrifying climb, though a couple grades easier, is Mouth to Perhaps on Glacier Point Apron. There's two consectutive 5.9 pitches up high that have a total of one piece of protection; One pitch has a 1/4" bolt, the next has nothing. No positive holds. Gulp. [QB]

---

Since the recent rockfall incidents on the Apron, anything there is terrifying to me. Grack Marginal had my full attention before then. Nine bolts (including anchors) in three pitches.

Closer to home, the 4th pitch of Dreamer (before retrobolting) was scintillating.

 

[ 04-15-2002, 03:24 PM: Message edited by: ScottP ]

[specialed]

That 10c slab route to the left of givlers crack at l-worth. That shit has some skeery sections. Have to have some reassuring talks with yourself before commiting to those difficult fairly runout moves. EEE!

[Matt]

Closer to home, the 4th pitch of Dreamer (before retrobolting) was scintillating.

 

Your not complaining are you? Last night a few people discussed this pitch over beers and all agreed it's a better climb since the retrobolt job. Anyone disagree?

 

[ScottP]

quote:

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Originally posted by Matt:

---

Closer to home, the 4th pitch of Dreamer (before retrobolting) was scintillating.

 

Your not complaining are you? Last night a few people discussed this pitch over beers and all agreed it's a better climb since the retrobolt job. Anyone disagree?

 

 

No. No complaints whatsoever. Though I haven't done the route since it was retrobolted, I feel that particular pitch had nastiness written all over it. I was never so happy to clip into a rusty, 1/4 inch spinner.

[Matt]

I think you'd find it a lot more enjoyable now.

 

BTW that's a nice picture.

[ScottP]

quote:

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Originally posted by Matt:

I think you'd find it a lot more enjoyable now.

 

BTW that's a nice picture.

---

Yeah that's what I hear. If I ever get back up there, I will probably do Safe Sex though.

 

Thanks for the compliment, though my friend Rob took the picture.

[wayne]

hey TimL was just talking aboot slabs when we saw you In Cananda. My epeltives are that slabs require too much nerve,trust,and patience to be popular with peops that want everything now!

[Matt]

quote:

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Originally posted by wayne1112:

hey TimL was just talking aboot slabs when we saw you In Cananda. My epeltives are that slabs require too much nerve,trust,and patience to be popular with peops that want everything now!

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Hi Wayne,

 

Funny, I was actually sitting next to TimL at the bar.

Sunday my partner and I climbed the ultra classic Dierdre. I opted to try Straight Up, the alternate start that by passes the second pitch. 100 percent slab. I highly recommend it. Slabs are cool.