TR: Reid Glacier Headwall - Mt. Hood

[Rodchester]

Wopper and I did the Reid Glacier Headwall route on Mt. Hood on Sunday (March 3, 2002).

We slept at Illumination saddle on Saturday night. We had spoken with two climbers on the way up that had done the Leuthold Coulior on Sat. (cc:comer = Fairweather?). They had informed us that high winds had caused a constant barrage of crap coming down the coulior and that the Reid might be a better/safer objective.

At about 3:00 a.m. a group of three Rondo skiers pased through the saddle on the way to the Leuthold. Another group had said they were going to the Yocum, but had the Leuthold as an alternative route.

When we got up and ready to climb at 6:00 a.m, a party of five rolled into the saddle saying they were heading for the Leuthold. The winds seemed to have died down, but we figured on the Reid anyway, given the crowds on Leuthold.

We left the sadlle at 6:30 a.m. We dropped down from the saddle onto the Reid Glacier with no problem. After traversing the Reid we turned right toward the headwall and started climbing the lower snow fan.

We crossed the bergshrund to the left hand side and then enetered what I will call the left hand chute. The lower sections of the Reid are estetic and interesting, mostly just steep snow. We protected occasionally with pickets, where we figured a fall might result in a big ride. Then about half way up there were some icy sections. A screw or two here would not have been a bad idea, but were not required.

Then we started to get hit by crap coming down. As it turned out, the three skiers that cut through the saddle at 3:00 a.m. had thought they were on the Leuthold, but actually were on the Reid Headwall. The skiers were understandably moving somewhat slow.

There are many ways to climb the Reid Headwall. We tried to get away from the crap coming down by vearing left up a different gully. This put us on about a 10 foot section of 70-80 degree hard ice. Wopper lead it with no problems (Screw here would have been nice). The ice had good foot pockets, so even my aluminum crampons worked fine.

I followed Wopper up, and wouldn't you know it, just as I was on the steep section the skiers kicked a bunch of shit down that somehow funnelled right into the gully I was in. I took afew punches with one hell of a punch in the nose. I saw stars, but held on.

Once out of this gully we followed the skiers, traversing around some gendarmes/spires. This was almost exclusively on good snow. We threw in a picket here and there as a fall meant a big ride over a cliff or two. From here we could see down into the Leuthold Coulior. There were multiple parties in the coulior, but it did not look too crowded. There were no winds causing the problems of Sat.

We noticed two guys coming off Yocum Ridge. The route from where we were, looked to be in about as good of shape as it gets. Good enough to know I'm not getting on it. But these guys did and we watched them top out by the top of the Leuthold Coulior.

The Skiers took a break and we climbed up and around them. We finally broke at about twenty feet below the summit ridge (sub ridge) and took a much needed water break and candy bar snack.

After powering up we traveresed the summit ridge to the true summit. Good conditions down hogs back.

Overall impressions of the route:

Both Wopper and I really enjoyed this route. It is sustained (40-50+ degrees) depending on how you do the route, mostly 50 degree stuff with some steeper sections) and not one you want to putz your way up. I would only get on this with good snow conditions and cold-ass weather. It is not an incredibly technical route, but does force you to actually climb the vast majority of the route. A fall on several sections of the route would result in a big ride if it was unprotected or not arrested. Not a beginner route, but not an expert route either. A good moderate route that climbs all the way to the summit ridge. We mostly simul-climbed and only actually set up what I would call an alpine belay twice.

The route was very estetic and interesting, it could be made more difficult or more easy depending on which gullies you choose. Some route finding abilites are required. I would choose this over the Leuthold if you are looking for a slightly more diffcult and interesting route with fewer folks on it.

One word of caution. This would not be a fun route to try and bail on. Sure you could do it, but it seems to me that finishing the route is easiest.

Helemts are mandatory.

I have no idea what the books say about this route. Smoot's book just says there are two gulleys that can freeze up but are otherwise garbage chutes.

[airmoss]

Rodchester, great info, thanks. I left the saddle about 7:00am for the Leuthod, so we could see you guys on the headwall. It looked sweet. Although there were about 9 climber in front of us on the Leuthod, we were all at about the same pace, so no bottle-necks. The conditions were good except for some patches of rime ice that shattered from crampons and ice ax. I would like to do the Reid. Have you ever climber the leuthold? If so, how would you compare the two.

[Rodchester]

Airmoss:

I have never climbed the Leuthold. But my understanding/impression is that the Leuthold is strightforward and can be a bowling alley.

I believe that the Reid is more diffcult in a couple of ways. The Reid is steeper, longer, and involves route finding. But that is just my opinion.

[imorris]

I would say Reid HW is a step up from Leuthold, but still quite moderate. Climbed the left-most gully system on RHW Fri/Sat. It is definitely steeper in sections and involves minor routefinding. That said, we were more than comfortable simul-soloing the route. Much of the time a fall would most likely be fatal, but axe plants and footwork were totally solid. A 2nd tool is not necessary, but we were able to really cruise with 2. I found it much nicer than my trips to Leuthold, though there was still a good deal of crap raining down on us. Recommended and worthwhile in the right conditions.

[airmoss]

Rodchester, what time did you summit?

imorris, thanks. Did you climb the Reid from Timberline, or camp at the saddle?

[airmoss]

Rodchester, what time did you summit?

imorris, thanks. Did you climb the Reid from Timberline, or camp at the saddle?

[Rodchester]

We summited about 12 noon.

[jimrudy1970]

Great climb guys. My partner and I were climbing Leuthold and could see you topping out as we were the next to last group coming up through the hourglass we were pelted with small ice fragments but nothing of consequence. Your route looked like it would have been an interesting climb. Talked to the couple of guys that did the Yocum upper buttress and they agreed that conditions probably could have not been better for doing all of Yocum Ridge.

[imorris]

quote:

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Originally posted by airmoss:

imorris, thanks. Did you climb the Reid from Timberline, or camp at the saddle?

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I started from Timberline @1:00am and ran into a friend of mine bivying at the saddle, so we climbed together. The saddle sucks for camping. I've spent multiple miserable nights there and never find it worthwhile. My two cents on I. Saddle.

[Rodchester]

imorris:

I don't mind the saddle so much. I have camped there three times and find it to be pretty much protected from the wind and flat. Great sunsets.

But it is definately a high traffic area. Lots of people there and even more cutting through to get to the west side of the mountain.

[Jimb]

[ 03-04-2002: Message edited by: Jimb ]

[JasonG]

GEEZ! Everybody was on Hood yesterday. I was with a friend on the Leuthold and had a blast (we were the two yahoos in MEC gear). Not quite as hard as I was expecting (Still fun though), so maybe next time it'll be the Reid headwall (or the Sandy). Now if only we could make to order another weekend like that . . .

heinie

[Rodchester]

Yeah, I was hoping someone that climbed the Sandy Headwall would post a report. I assume someone climbed it?

I would be very interested in a TR and / or beta on the any routes on the Sandy side...anyone?

[rbw1966]

quote:

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Originally posted by Rodchester:

Yeah, I was hoping someone that climbed the Sandy Headwall would post a report. I assume someone climbed it?

I would be very interested in a TR and / or beta on the any routes on the Sandy side...anyone?

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What is it you want to know? The guidebook is pretty spot-on. When we did it (day before new years eve 1999) it was pretty straightforward with no great technical difficulties--we didn't even rope up. Whilst on the Yocum last week and looking down at it, it looked pretty sweet. Not too dissimilar from Leuthold but a bit steeper.

I'll be going by there this weekend if the weather is descent. I can let you know what I see from the bottom looking up if no one else has posted beta before then.

[airmoss]

Heinie,

My partner and I were the guys that pulled up behind you right before the summit traverse. Cool pants, I'm definately going to get some. We had such a killer time and met alot of great peolple. We would like to do the Reid HW sometime this month. Maybe we will see you there....

[To_The_Top]

Rodchester,

That was a perfect day on Hood. You were telling me at the summit how you got hit in the nose with ice--yikes. I did see two go over to the Sandy headwall but didnt see them after that.

TTT

[scot'teryx]

Rodchester - did I see you on the summit? We were the party of 4 - 3 guys and 1 woman. I had the OSAT helmet on, and we topped out from the hogsback around 1115am and headed down around noon. I think we might have spoke?

[Rodchester]

Scot'teryx:

That was me and Wopper. But the other guy and girl were not with us, we were just BSing with them on the summit.

I asked you if you knew Chris Newman...right? And Wopper asked if you knew some other OSATer...right?

If so that was us....

Good to see ya/meet ya!!!

[scot'teryx]

That was me, and the girl was my wife, along with Seregio "sverdina" and Bill "tothetop"

Good to meet you guys.

Nice route you guys did, congrats

I would like to go back down next year and do one of the other routes like you did.

L8R

[b-rock]

[ 03-04-2002: Message edited by: b-rock ]

[snowleopard_x]

Rod & Rob - We had considered the Sandy this past weekend but chose not (not knowing the route and lack of fitness probably the deciding factors), but we did check the Reid side out. Very few crevasses up high, At about 8,800' on the Reid we saw a nasty people eater hiding. Keep your wits about - a fall in would be very bad. Once you're across, it looked like a straight shot around Yocum. Can't report on the crossing of the Sandy Glacier, but it should be great. Looking down on the HW from the Queens Chair, it looked beautiful. I'd say if next week is good weather, it would be the time to go.

[scot'teryx]

Just came across this image as I was adding my trip report to my site and realized that this was that first group to top out on the west side. I think Rodchester and Whopper are in thsis image amongst others. Get out your magnifying glass gentleman!