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airmoss

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Everything posted by airmoss

  1. This is an old pair of Inverno's that still have a lot of life left in them. They are at least 10 years old but I'd be surprised of I have a dozen trips on them. The shell size is 10/11 so they should fit US size 10 or 10.5. I'm a size 9 and they were always big for me. I'll throw in a pair of OR GTX gaiters that fit these boots. I live in Puyallup, Wa but work in Seattle.
  2. I found a pair of glasses on the trail between the west side road and Lake Allen in Mt. Rainier National Park while on the way to Mt Wow. PM me if these are yours and I'll send them to you.
  3. My Mountain Equipment Co-op Ferrata pants finally bit the dust so I need to replace them ASAP. I am so bummed that they don't make these any more. They are the perfect alpine pants. I've done everything in them from winter accents of Hood, summer scrambling, and lift skiing. I really like the Schoeller fabric for ease of movement and the way it sheds the weather. The other great thing about these pants is that they don’t have ankle zips, but have a nice stretchy shock cord sewn into the bottom of the pant that makes for a nice snug fit over plastic mountaineering boots, or ski boots. Please help me with recommendations on alpine soft-shell pants!!
  4. Ok, I did the Zipper. Thanks for the pics. It was not really that thin, just scary because it was so soft. I had to swim from the point where lovers lane joins the route. Once it freezes it's going to be fantastic.
  5. You know, I get the route names all confused. There are three routes on the north side: the fly, zipper, and lover's lane. I've climbed all three. I think the middle route is the fly, but I'm not really sure.
  6. Climb: Lane Peak-Middle Gully Date of Climb: 4/24/2005 Trip Report: Climbed the middle gully of Lane Peak yesterday. Boy the snow was soft, especially at the top. I would not do it again until it is feezing over night, at which time it should be really nice. This is one of my favorite training climbs. Great views and just enough steep and exposure to make it interesting. There was a group of about six player in the left gully. Looked pretty nasty and I'm curious to hear how they did. The rock band about half way up was out, and the traverse into the middle gully looked very thin. Most importantly, I'm please to announce that Scale Burger is open for business! Gear Notes: Ice Axe - I wish it was about 3 feet longer Crampons
  7. I have to go with the Kautz as well. That side of the mountain is a whole different scene because of the lack of people. Another fun route is the Fuher Finger (or Thumb). Not as technically difficult as the Kautz, but you may not be following a boot path either.
  8. Attached is a photo of T-Mo on the first pitch. I'm still having nightmares about that belay I set up after the second pitch.
  9. Yep. I climbed Lane peak on Sunday. The gate at Longmire is open 24/7.
  10. I was at ipsut creek last weekend. The road if fine. Trail was snow free to the glacier. That's as far as I went.
  11. airmoss

    kautz info

    You will certainly want some pickets and a couple of screws. A 2nd tool would be nice. When I did it the steep section was soft so we never had to set a belay. We down climbed the route. If it is icy, you will want to repel the steep section to the left of the ice cliff. RMI has been known to leave a fixed line there, but I would not depend on it.
  12. How much for a cat ride? I looked at Timberline's web site and could not see a price. One time I was sweltering up the cat track and one rolled by with cases of beer and wine strapped to it. Talk about brutal. I got nothing to prove on the track and would hitch a ride any day. Now, if I could get me a snow-cat and run it up to Muir, I would probably be able to retire after a couple of seasons.
  13. I saw the guy finally find his other ski down below steel cliffs.
  14. Hey, same here. We always seem to meet the nicest people on the summit of Hood. Where in WA are you?
  15. Actually, Hood is our favorite volcanoe. We climbed the Reid HW last year and I actually think it is funner than the Sandy HW.
  16. I'm posting this TR for my climbing partner Troy who's PC is down. On sunday June 1 AirMoss and I climbed the Sandy Glacier Headwall. Hailing from the Tacoma area, we were looking at a 4 hr. drive, so we decided to take Air's motorhome so that we could catch some quality Z's in the parking lot after such a long drive. For 2+hrs. we listened to pickets clanking, people talking, even rap "music", giving Timberline parking lot a somewhat festive air (not at all conducive to scrumptious sack time). We left the parking lot at 1:30a.m. taking our place in the continuous line of headlamps stretching from Timberline to Orions Belt. Strong winds, stars overhead and some cloudiness was the theme for the next 2 hrs, interupted occasionally by Ol'Blue (the snow cat) ferrying the wealthier baggers (unmotivated punters?) to the top of the chair lift. At that point we left the throngs for the misty traverse to Illumination Saddle. I was secretly feeling like bailing, with the poor visibility and strong winds blowing my "fairweather climber" Bag(in fact my mojo was lost), when Moses like, the clouds parted, the wind stopped, and dawn broke just as we reached Illumination Saddle at 4:30 a.m. Onward and Upward!!! The previous biblical scene soon turned into the frozen Hell of Breakable Crust on the Reid glacier. Two steps on top, the next to the knee!! CURSES!!!! I soon discovered why they call AirMoss, AirMoss. That bastard can stay on top of breakable crust like an Elf !!!!! (or am I a few HoHo's and Dingdong's heavier?). NOW WE FULLY INTENDED ON DOING THE LOWER TRAVERSE (around the toe of Yokum Ridge). We had read the threads and agreed with the lower is better crowd, but the breakable crust was a strong pursuader for the higher 8600' traverse. No way in Hell was I going to posthole around Yokum Ridge!! I AM HERE TO TESTIFY AND BEAR WITNESS THIS VERY DAY, THE 8600' TRAVERSE IS THE SHIZNIT, BIOTCH !!!!!!!!!! It was very straight foreward and obvious, in fact it was downright easy. And the best part was that I stayed on top of the crust all the way to the Sandy Glacier, WHAT A HUGE SHORTCUT !!!! But alas the snow of the Sandy softened just enough to allow me (not Air ) to sink to the knee. We roped back up for the glacier, crossed a couple of crevasses and a couple of weird 8' deep runnels before arriving at the bulletproof ice of the SandyGlacier Headwall at 7:00 a.m. 2 and a half hrs. after leaving Illumination Saddle. The route was (as predicted) 45 to 50 degrees, perfect for Pied a Plat/Piolet canne. I was Frenching like Gaston Rebufatt when the first of several baseball sized ice chunks persuaded me to whip out the second tool and practice my low dagger/front point technique from deep, deep within my helmet! We were unroped for the headwall. Just above the Hourglass I saw tracks comming down Cathedral Ridge, into the headwall, then up to the right towards the Upper Buttress of Yokum Ridge. As I got closer I could tell that the tracks were made by a four legged animal that had crossed through the day before during the heat of the day (as they were an inch or two deep). I waited until AirMoss came to the spot to confirm that A CANINE ASCENDED THE 1937 ROUTE !!!! Two hrs. from the base we arrived at Queens Chair, just in time to see some playas finishing up the Leuthold Couloir. We followed their tracks to the summit celebration in progress. At 10:00 a.m. we began the long, brutal slog-o-rama to the car, speeding the process by skirting the bergshrund on the opposite side of the multitude. We also stayed well to the side to prevent undesireable "Flossing" from roped but proless parties. 10 hrs. and 30 mins. after starting we arrived back at the parking lot and that sweet rehydrating nectar I SO craved !!! Next time I think I'll take the snow cat, definately do the 8600' traverse, absolutely do the 1937 "Dog" route, and damn sho nuff gwanna take skis for the descent, yes sir ! NAMASTE, Troy
  17. Great climb! We climbed it on Sunday and had a blast. The hardest move was hauling my fat ass out of the shrund. Gonna need to buy some new picks after pounding so much rock. We only saw one other party on the route as well. Any one know what was up with the helicopter buzzing chair peak and the toof Sunday afternoon?
  18. rb21966 or iain, Do you have any advice for crossing the YR for a first timer heading to the Sandy? OH says to cross at 8600, Nelson's book suggests going low around the toe.
  19. Right On TG! When you posted awhile ago that you were going to solo that side of the Mt., I was wondering how the Nisqually crossing would be. Sounds like you didn't have a problem. This time last year it was a crap shoot.
  20. We started up the Reid from the trail to the Leuthold about 8:00 am (crossing the shrund shortly after), started the slog about 11:00 am, and summited at 11:30. We were never directly in the sun, and it was cold enough that the tube for my water bladder kept freezing.
  21. Climbed the Reid Headwall with T-Mo Saturday, May 11. We roped up at the base of the route in preperation for crossing the burgshrund. The shrund was gaping on the left and right, so we post holed in knee deep snow for the middle. Due to the soft snow, I had to use my famous belly crawl move to get over the burgshund. It was still post hole city, and we decided that if it didn't firm up soon, we were going to bail. Near the entrance to the first gully, the snow was better so we unroped and continued on. There was a constant shower of ice about the size of golf balls the entire way through the first gully. I was behind T-Mo at this point so I just kept my head down, and my eyes on his track. We took several direct hits off our helmets, knees, etc. Crossing the snow rib, the snow was still a bit unconsolidated. This all changed as we climbed into the second gully. This was probably the sweetest part of the climb. About a third of the way through the gully I looked back at T-Mo and he just had a big shit eating grin on his face. That probably sums up our whole day. A bit further, we ran into some nice ice sections that made us glad we had second tools. The third gully was narrow (about eight feet wide) and short. Above that was a fairly gripping taverse. The slope was steep enough that you have to face in most of the way. There was big exposure here, down to the leuthold. After the traverse, we climbed up a short gully and slogged to the summit. All in all, this was a great climb. With no one else on the route, and the perfect weather, it just doesn't get much better.
  22. It is not just the Monties at spire rock. Groups can reserve the rock, and usually put a sign at the chain link fence. I usually go early on weekends. Then the groups show up and tell me to get off the rock. I tell them I'll get off when I'm done. I think you can call Sprinker and find out when it is reserved. Go soon, cause I think I'm going to reserve it for every weekend from April 1 to Sept 30 :-)
  23. Heinie, My partner and I were the guys that pulled up behind you right before the summit traverse. Cool pants, I'm definately going to get some. We had such a killer time and met alot of great peolple. We would like to do the Reid HW sometime this month. Maybe we will see you there....
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