winter climbs of Three Sister

[r]

I am looking for information about winter climbs in the Three Sister area as will as Mt Jefferson. Has anyone been climbing in that area lately?

[Alex]

Broken Top is a pretty popular climb in the winter because its a reasonable ski from where you can park near Bachelor. Do you have Oregon High by Jeff Thomas? It covers the various routes up the headwall in detail...

Alex

[r]

Thanks Alex. I have several of the guide books. What I was looking for was some current or past years info from people who have actually done these climbs in the winter.

[Billy]

We climbed 11 oclock couloir on Broken Top on Sunday 3-11. Good step kicking was had on the route. On the traverse to the NW ridge it was windscoured. Perfect cramponing. Anything south facing was heating up and getting soft rapidly. West and north aspects were wind scoured. I'd expect similar conditions in the rest of the Three Sisters

[Jonn-E]

Climbed Broken Top March 22 in perfect weather. Doesn't change the exposure on the NW ridge any though. Wow. Pretty solid footing though. Couloir at top pretty heinous w/ low snow. I blayed lead climber, ultra sketchy. Felt good to top that rock though! Also, don't try South Sister false summit route, the descent off the top has been melted away already, we had to turn back Nice thing about winter climbing, we were in the area for a week, never saw anyone.

[r]

FYI

Our group of five climbers when in to Broken Top from Rd. 16 out of Sisters. We climbed Broken Top on Friday March 30 in excellent conditions. Our route was the second couloir west of the North Buttress, not in any guide book. There was good snow for step kicking and some ice on the route, it was quite steep. The leader of last year's K2 climb was the person on the sharp end of the rope most of the way. What a trip! It rained that night and we went out in very wet weather the next day.

Thanks, to the people that responded to my request for info,

r

[Maurice]

Was there any snow or ice on road 16 just before the gate?

[r]

There was no snow or ice on the road to the snow park. Parts of the trails had melted out when we went out on Saturday, but it was not too bad. Conditions most likely have changed since then.

r

quote:

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Originally posted by Maurice:

Was there any snow or ice on road 16 just before the gate?

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[getoutofohio]

Planning on being in the area during March. How is road access in the area during that time? Do snow closures necessitate skis for the approaches to these peaks? Thanks for the info. - Joe

[kurthicks]

yes. the road closes at Bachelor. you may be able to bribe the sledheads with some to get you out there.

 

There are also some other supposedly good routes. NE Face of Middle, the north couloirs on South Sister, early morning couloir of North, etc...

 

1000th post.

Edited January 19, 2006 by wazzumountaineer

[Billy]

[kurthicks]

i'll fix that for you Billy. Nice shot of the NE Face. anyone got pictures of the couloirs on South?

 

[jlag]

Where is that? Somewhere on Middle?

 

3 Sisters Report: Feet of snow, needs to settle for a bit before anything goes. The approach would be slog even with skis. Clear sky and heavy winds crossloading snow today. Backcountry riding is going off.

[kurthicks]

according to homeboy's photo caption, that's the NE face route on Middle. looks cool.

[John Frieh]

according to homeboy's photo caption, that's the NE face route on Middle. looks cool.

 

The start is a bit spicy then it mellows out as the angle drops. Get it early early season if possible... not as bad a garbage chute as Early Morning Couloir but still funnels the shit down.

 

Man that brings back some memories

[Billy]

The above photo is the north side start of the E Buttress of North Sister. Feb 2002.

[Billy]

Middle Sister NE Face

 

Upper Part of E Butt of North Sister

[letsroll]

jlag you see the last post from billy. Middle sister NE face. A must do, or at least on my tick list.

[jlag]

Sure thing, you got the first pitch. It should come in this year, once all this powder starts melting. BC this weekend eh?

[letsroll]

I will take the first, second and third pitches, you can take the fourth I am helping out with class all this weekend (weather not looking so hot). Thinking about night sking/skinning up Hood SS. Or possibly booting up to crater rock at night to get some extra in for shasta.

[slogon]

Looking for current information on where you can park overnight for a winter trip to the South Sister (if it ever stops raining/snowing). Dutchman Flat?, somewhere at Mt. Bachelor? I've seen conflicting info. on whether you can park overnight at these areas, and would prefer not finding a piece of paper on the windshield upon returning.

[letsroll]

This is what I understand. There is parking at the dutchman flat for over night. But it is a small parking area and only a couple of spots for overnight. Look for the "no-over night signs." Also get there early cause that parking lot gets full fast!!!! like 7 am from all the sleds. Have your snowpark permit. The overnight parking is parallel parking along the north side of the lot (take the bit info at your own risk). For the real info call DOT and or the Ranger.

[jlag]

No overnight parking from Tue 6pm-Wed 6 am, also Thur 6pm-Fri 6 am. If you park in there during those times it won't be a piece of paper, just no car. Bring beer/trade to catch a ride with the 'bilers.