Maurice

Printing up your suggestions. Thank you for taking the time to respond. We'll play it safe. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks for the input. I think we will go counter-clockwise. If we are concerned once we reach Eliot then it is easy to turn around and head back out... we'd prefer no scary scrambles with the kids:) pcg- are you saying that we wouldn't actually be crossing on the glacier but just below it? I have heard of a number of people taking that high crossing on the glacier and that there's a lot of debris. We should hit that fairly early in the morning on Saturday if that helps with melt. Mr. Gecko- thanks for the update on the White River crossing and trail!

Just wondering if anyone has been on the Timberline Trail recently. We're taking our boys up with us, 11 and 13, and are concerned about the river crossings. Going next weekend. Thanks.

Then where are climbers supposed to park?

Is it tolerated to sleep in your truck at Paradise?

C'est vous le musicien, Jean-Baptiste Lully?

If you want "to tag on" that mountain it's best to just hire a prostitute. Although if you swing the other way I would contact the Mountaineers.

"Beginner" guide, not beginner climber, at least I hope they haven't become so desperate.

Jens, there's a difference between a good climber and a good guide. One just hopes their guide will be both! I've heard about French guides which are very good and ones which lack the necessary patience to deal with clients who don't climb at their level or even the wisdom to understand what is reasonable for their clients to attempt.

Some posters have alluded to the example of European guides as some sort of guarantee. Which perhaps it is in technical knowledge, but in safety/intelligence that is rather questionable. I see in the latest issue of Montagnes Magazine that yet another ENSA trained French guide has been convicted of negligence with a one year suspended jail sentence. He was leading two ropes up somewhere, and the second (of which he was not a part) could not follow the move he lead to pass another party (a dangerous move for which French guides seem to be well known). The result, two adolescents lost footing and fell to their deaths. My point is, of course, your guide is only as good as he is wise. I would not go out with just any guide if I were you. There are two parts to a good guide and even certification can only assure one of these.

Nice pics, interesting to see all the exposed rock up high since I was up there in January.

These are my highlights: Starlight and Storm, Gaston Rebuffat, I love his descriptions of freezing on ledges while becoming the first to climb all 6 of the great North faces. Annapurna, Maurice Herzog, Interesting to feel his determination at ANY risk. The Crystal Hoizon, Reinhold Messner My Alpine Jubilee, Frederic Harrison, This is no too common, published in 1915, a collection of essays about his experiences from 1880-1910 in the Alps, a friend of Leslie Stephen, plus who else is quoting in Latin and Greek in mountain lit?

Rereading my last post, it sounded really stupid where I said my vote was for USOutdoor. What I wanted to say was that one should go there and get the sale stuff and leave because they suck and get some Arcteryx for half off. I think they all kinda suck, they each have a couple of high points and lots of low points. The best shop overall has got to be Andy and Bax, everyone should have a slung de-activated hand grenade on their rack.

Pindude, about Europeans getting stuff cheaper than Yanks from Barrabes: remember that EU citizens must pay VAT which Barrabes generalizes at 16%, but depends upon the country.

I don't take too much to heart at REI, I've worked in an outdoor shop and I would get jumped on by my boss if I did not jump on the customers, which I had no desire to do. Like Safeway were the employees are forced to greet everyone.I think it is nice that at US Outdoor they don't jump on you quite as much, especially upstairs. If one will ask a question though they should got an honest and thoughtful response, but I've wondered some persons commitment to this. Do they get tired of people who want to go from day hiker to mountaineer in one weekend or just not care or what? Also, my vote is for US Outdoor, hit the 50 off racks in the front and go no further. I don't really seek advice since most of it is dubious.My vote for the worst advice: The backpack section of Au Vieux Campeur in Paris.

About Gavin at US Outdoor, I have no doubt that he knows his shit, but anyone else find him inattentive when talking with him?

I would like to know what Rainier climbing traffic is like generally on this weekend by comparison to the weekends before and after this one. Spray is highly desireable in addition to the info.

The best is so clearly "Banner in the Sky". You cannot beat Disney doing climbing and period style.

I wear all Helly hanson lifa long handles, the current generation of fabric. It is a great layer because it feels fantastic against the skin and is very comfortable in a range of temps. You've got to get the newest stuff though. Last year I was in a Helly Hanson store and they did not even have the new suff, only the old scratchy stuff! So far the only store in the US that I've seen it in is Teton Mtn in Jackson.

Accurate hanging scales shouldn't come cheap. Try a baby scale, they usually have a large area for putting stuff and not too expensive.

I would be more than happy to learn a few things from a nice female. In fact I would prefer it. Please send me an email and a picture never hurts either. Oh and the climbing thing too, mention something about that.

Perhaps you might specify what is worth reading. Is this not a large digression?

There is nothing better than blind people arguing about what they see. It all seems a little pointless doesn't it? If I am to look out my door and decide "better or worse", then I must attest to the cesspool that I observe has appeared or rather replaced. Some things better and more things worse.

I checked out the pics, it looks like fun, but I did begin to wonder who pays for it. Not that I care much, I've never paid income tax in the US.

I cannot say I'm sad to here that Marmot has completely changed their line.