rock climbing with 3 people?

[XXX]

What is the best way to do an alpine rock climb like the tooth or similar rock climbings with 3 people? Any advice is appreciated thanks

 

T

[G-spotter]

With A reverso or Atc Guide.

[jmace]

half ropes with the seconders tied in to one rope each, then use the atc guide or whatever belay device you want, atc works fine as well.

 

Leader climbs then seconders follow at same time or slighty skewed..

 

J

[Alpinfox]

I'm posting on this topic to say that the previous two posters are correct.

 

Case closed. Anyone who posts anything further will be guilty of spraying in the Newbies forum.

 

[Alpinfox]

bump

[colt45]

Using two ropes and an auto-blocking belay device is definitely the way to go. The only problem is that rope management can be tricky, especially if you are changing leaders. I think the easiest solution is for each person to also have a daisy chain to clip to the anchor--then after every pitch have everyone untie, switch rope ends as needed, and re-tie (sounds like a hassle but it should take less than a minute).

[G-spotter]

If you lead in blocks then you don't have to do it after every pitch.

[JohnGo]

For easy routes like the Tooth, and for those of us who do not have double ropes (which is most CC members, I bet) try this.

 

The second ties into the end of the rope.

The third ties a butterfly about 20 feet from the end, and clips into it with a 4 foot sling (or two) girthed hitched to the harness and two locking biners.

The leader then belays two climbers climbing at the same time on the same rope.

The 4 foot sling allows the bottom person to fall, stretching the rope tight, lowering the chances of the middle person getting yanked off.

For this reason, the stronger of the two following climbers should be on the end of the rope.

This is a system to be used when fall possibility is very low. Works great on steep snow too.

 

It's almost as fast as a two person team, with none of the additional cluster and cost of double ropes. Practice in a controlled setting is recommended before a real world application.

 

(and Alpinefox, don't be so quick to think you have all the answers =^)

[PLC]

I climbed Castleton Tower with two friends last November. We had two ropes (necessary for a speedy descent). One climber lead a pitch and belayed up the second, who trailed a rope. While the leader was climbing the second pitch, being belayed by the second, the third climber self-belayed up the first pitch using a gri-gri.

 

This system worked very well, and we were able to climb nearly as fast as if we had been just a party of two. It really only works if one person is willingly to lead all the pitches and the third climber is comfortable with self-belay.

[tradclimbguy]

JohnGo has a good one there if you only want to bring one rope, but I'm not sure about the extra sling in the system? JohnGo, why do you need the sling??? Just put the knot in the rope so one climber has 10ft or so of rope from him to that knot and the other has 15 or 20. You just need enough rope to each so that the belayer is essentially belaying the knot up allowing the bottom climber to fall and hopefully not pull the second off.

 

I would however say this is probably more dangerous though as the followers need to realize that a fall will most likely pull the two of you off. It's kinda like simul climbing for two followers; ie. Don't fall! I did this in a team of three up Slesse and it worked very well. It was however on extremely easy ground which is 99% of the climb.

 

We also used double lockers to tie into the rope to make switches easier and lead everything in blocks turning the route into about 11 pitches total with a good amount of simul climbing.

 

I would vote for double ropes with a double belay, not as fast as the single rope butterfly setup but safe and easy and still faster than trailing the second line and effectively waiting for three people to climb the pitch one after another.

 

and for those of us who do not have double ropes (which is most CC members, I bet)

Does everybody think this is true? I would think many people here would have double ropes. I know that me and most of my partners all have doubles. Heck each year I seem to get yet another to replace an old one or to get one thats thinner from the 9.1 to the 8.8 to the 8.5 and so on. If people don't have doubles I think they are worth while, especially for many routes with easy 60m descents or for escape. Edited December 22, 2006 by tradclimbguy

[DirtyHarry]

I'm posting on this topic to say that the previous two posters are correct.

 

Climbing with a 60 m or even better a 70 m single rope (I like a 9.8mm) with one follower tied in on a large bight about five meters from the end and the other follower tied into the end is also a good way.

[kevbone]

What is the best way to do an alpine rock climb like the tooth or similar rock climbings with 3 people?

 

Best way to climb with 3 people? Dont. Axe one of the team members.

[cindy66]

I have to agree with kevbone...I have only been doing it for less than 6 years,but I have learned never go in three, and tie your weakest climber to your leader. Just something Ive learned,so pass it on.

[Mr_Phil]

I have to agree with kevbone...I have only been doing it for less than 6 years,but I have learned never go in three ... .

 

BS. Teams of three are fine. Double ropes and an autolocking belay device work great.

[cindy66]

Well Thank You Mr.Phil, Knowledge is Power,I stand corrected.

[kevbone]

Teams of three do work, its just way slower.

[cindy66]

So much easier to go in doubles, right?

[kevbone]

So much easier to go in doubles, right?

 

Yes. You know it all really depends on the crag/climb/grade. I enjoy climbing indoors with three. that way one person is resting. Outside the best way is with even numbers, so one is not always waiting around. Sucks to be the one.

[cindy66]

Well I am never the one,I like to be the leader.,or 2nd in command.If by chance it is the wrong step or direction I had a hand in the mistake or success.

[Mr_Phil]

Well Thank You Mr.Phil, Knowledge is Power,I stand corrected.

 

You're welcome.

 

I'm here to help.

[treknclime]

XXX...

 

The Tooth can be climbed in 2 pitches using two 70m ropes, and is a reasonably clean and easy technique using a reverso or ATC guide.

 

You posted back in September...how did your experience go? Have fun?

[cindy66]

so would it be safe to have the third on a safe margin , have him ( two woman, third man-which is the weakest) tie hisself in up on the top of are path in case be mis steps he dont roll down>,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,knowlege is power..............teach me the leader guys............we want this summit........BAD

[snoboy]

Teams of three do work, its just way slower.

 

It can be faster for multipitch aid climbing apparently.

[DirtyHarry]

Teams of three do work, its just way slower.

 

What Kevbone means to say is that if you are a retarted assclown like he is, teams of three are slower. Otherwise it is just as fast.

[mattp]

Teams of three do work, its just way slower.

 

It can be faster for multipitch aid climbing apparently.

 

Besides, teams of three can be more fun. You have somebody to talk to at belay ledges and, if you are carrying much clothing and equipment, one more guy to share the work. Also, if you have a photographer in the group they will be freer to practice their hobby.

 

On shorter alpine rock climbs where you don't necessarily need to rush things, there is no worry that a team of three will be slower. The double rope and auto-locking belay device may speed things, depending on the climbers and the situation, but consider also that you may need to manage belays differently: even more than with a team of two, it may be a good idea to be sure everybody uses a personal leash for belays rather than using their end of the belay rope for an anchor. The personal leash need not be a daisy chain dedicate solely to that purpose but a couple of extra shoulder-length slings that may also turn out to be handy for a rappel retreat or a sling around a tree or horn. I recommend this not only if you may be changing leaders, as Colt45 mentioned, but belay ledge snafu's are more likely with the additional climber.