A Weekend at Squamish

[catbirdseat]

[Warning: Long and possibly boring trip report follows]

 

Jimbabwe and I drove up Friday afternoon, leaving Seattle at 1:30 pm. We hit the worst traffic we'd ever seen in Bellingham where we took Meridian to Linden. Noticed a long line of Canadians heading south at the border.

 

Bought some tortilla chips that were made with a "touch of lime". Jim asked me, "what are all those green flakes on the chips?" I answered that it was probably a result of some in the marketing department saying, "hey, we gotta make sure that the consumer can look at these chips and KNOW they have lime in them". Jim said, "well they look like they took some paint of a John Deere tractor, ground it up and added it to the mix.

 

From that point onward if one of us wanted some chips it was, "pass me the John Deere".

 

Arrived in Squamish at 6:30 pm and got a campsite near the Municipal Pool and ran into Lonni and Dave who were there to do Angel's Crest in the morning. Then we were off to Malemute to see if we could get a couple route in before dark. As it turned out, we only had time for High Mountain Woody, 5.9. It's got a bit of a tricky spot early in the pitch that would have been easier if I hadn't just been sitting in the car all those hours.

 

Topped out as it was getting dark in warm, still air, with the no-see-ums out in force. We were still glad we could get the one pitch in. It felt good.

 

Back to camp for some chili and beer. Toast showed up shortly before we went to bed. He'd had an even worse drive than we.

 

Saturday morning, Toast, Jimbabwe and I were first in line on Rock On. I lead the first pitch, on two singles. Even though it's rated only 5.7, it is long and sustained. A very good pitch. It was a chore bringing up two at the same time on fat ropes, even using a B-52 in autolock mode.

 

After that, we went with the second dragging a rope, even though it was slower. Jim got the second short 5.8 pitch and I got the third 5.9 pitch. By now a Candian pair had caught up to us. I commented that it was so nice of the Canadians to put big jugs on the route right where you need them.

 

Jim was so excited about leading the crux 5.10a pitch, he took off without getting all the slings and cordellette from Tony. When he ran out, he decided to cut the pitch short and belay from a cramped ledge.

 

When I arrived, I built a new anchor so I could stand out of Jim's way. When Tony arrived, three was a crowd. I got to lead the second half of the last pitch, which turned out to be less difficult than I expected. There are lots of good rests all over the place.

 

We hurried on down Broadway Ledge because we were expecting three more friends in town. Just as we approached the Diedre top-out, we spotted them below coming up Banana Peel and treated them to some wise-ass comments.

 

We hung out just above the slab decent and waited for them to top out. I saw a guide short-roping two clients down Broadway. All I can say is that if I were the guide, I'd be scared to death about doing that. You could get dragged down the slabs if one of them stumbled.

 

Said hello to PJ and Jen, a couple of Jim's friends heading up the walk off up to do The Ultimate Everything. Very nice people. They had planned on Banana Peel, but our three friends beat them to it.

 

Our friends topped out on Banana peel with big grins on their faces and then the six of us headed to town for some lunch . I've always wondered if anyone has ever slipped and fallen on the slabs or if anyone has died thereby. No one seems to know.

 

In the afternoon, we split up with Jim and I doing The Snake and the others doing Diedre. Figuring we'd have to do another pitch after the Snake, we hustled up the route, catching up to a couple of guys on the third pitch.

 

While I was cooling my heels I was enjoying the scenery. I happened to look at Garibaldi (?) to the north and saw a big rock slide in progress. A huge column of dust rose above the left-hand face and was carried by the wind over the top to slowly dissapate. That was too cool! The Snake was fun. The little traverse on the second to last pitch is pretty memorable.

 

We arrived back at Diedre's topout just as Chris and Linnea were approaching. Tony and Scott had fallen a pitch behind. Scott had had a leader fall earlier and so he was "sewing it up" from that point on.

 

There was a friendly chipmunk running about- fearless. Jim climb up a tree to get a better view of the Diedre goings-on. He said he was looking for a joint he'd stashed up there last year, but apparently it wasn's still there.

 

So while we waited for them, the four of us decided to scamper up Pig Dogs on Parade. That was a lot of fun. It's just a matter of scampering up the slabs without thinking too much. We used the two ropes to rap back down. If you have only one rope, it's probably better to just go up and around.

 

Tony and Scott passed by as we were rapping. It was getting dark and they didn't want to wait. Headlamps on, we followed down the slab decent in rockshoes.

 

At the bottom we were putting on tennis shoes when two voices were heard coming down the slabs with no headlamps. The two locals were glad to have caught up to follow our light through the woods. One guy wore flip flops. All I know is I am too much of a klutz to do that without wrecking my feet.

 

Tony and Scott were waiting for us in the parking lot enjoying a couple beers. Then it was off to the brewpub for some dinner and more beer. Ran into Lonni and Dave. They'd had a great time on Angel's Crest. It had taken them 8 hours. They'd been slowed a little by a party in front but not badly.

 

Sunday was very casual. We hung out at Octopuses Garden and did lots of cracks from 5.7 to 5.9. I can't believe the bouldery start on Edible Panties, 5.7 doesn't even merit a comment in the MacLean guide. It's hard!

 

I stopped to use the pit toilet during my visit to Smoke Bluffs. It happened to be out of toilet paper, but someone very thoughtfully left some nettle leaves next to the seat, for those who may have forgotten their own paper (fortunately I did have some).

 

The drive home was amazingly fast. We were prepared for horrible traffic and only hit some minor slowing in Everett.

Edited August 29, 2006 by catbirdseat

[Weekend_Climberz]

[jefffski]

I've always wondered if anyone has ever slipped and fallen on the slabs or if anyone has died thereby. No one seems to know.

 

there have been only 4 deaths in squamish, but many close calls. the deaths were as follows: one while jugging; one while being lowered; one had a narcoleptic attack and fell as he hiked along an exposed ledge; and one while climbing neat and cool. that's it.

[catbirdseat]

That's an amazing record, really.

 

I know a guy to took a bad fall at Neat and Cool, but he survived with two broken wrists. The folks in the hospital know all about that route.

[fenderfour]

Hey CBS - I saw you at the Brew Pub on Saturday. I was the dirty climber in the orange shirt. At least I was one of them.

 

I spent the weekend trying to hide from the crowds, but they always found us as we were one pitch up.

 

Friday - Smoke Bluff Connection and a lot of beer.

 

Saturday - Got lost on the Squaw trying to find birds of Prey. Did the first two pitches, both fun 5.8. Went out to the Malmute to climb High Mountain Woody, but there was a line, so we climbed Paul's Crack instead. FYI - It's only 5.10 for about three moves at the bottom. It eases considerably after that. From the Malmute we got lost looking for the Klahanie Crack area at Shannon Falls. What can I say, we suck. Found a line at K crack, so we climbed Cardhu Crack instead. It was better, IMHO. Finished the night with beer and caramels.

 

Sunday - Went looking for Cream of White Mice, found Slot Machine and climbed it as a warm up. Encountered a line on COWM, so we climbed Cooghee crack instead. Effing Righteous. Beer. Drive. Border. Beer. Drive. Sleep.

[catbirdseat]

If you saw me, you should have hollered. I somehow failed to spot you.

 

It would seem we lucked out on the crowds because we never once had to wait in line for a route.

[tomtom]

[jordop]

Jesus you guys must like crowds climbing that shniz on sunny weekends in August

[tomtom]

[fern]

anybody find an autographed guidebook (not mine) in the apron parking lot saturday afternoon? it would have been a little smushed having been left on the wheel when the car drove away.

[fenderfour]

If you saw me, you should have hollered. I somehow failed to spot you.

 

I was already pretty drunk after two pitchers of Garibaldi and a dehydrating day in the sun. I had nothing intelligent to say.

[catbirdseat]

After a long day of climbing, it only takes two glasses to get me drunk.

[Geek_the_Greek]

I can't believe the bouldery start on Edible Panties, 5.7 doesn't even merit a comment in the MacLean guide. It's hard!

 

Many moons ago, when we both had more time than money, (and I believe, the day he taught me to place pro) the one and only Dru/Spotter took a whipper there!

He later made up for it by free-soloing some shit near his grade limit.

 

Ah, the memories...

[PaulB]

I saw a guide short-roping two clients down Broadway. All I can say is that if I were the guide, I'd be scared to death about doing that. You could get dragged down the slabs if one of them stumbled.

The whole point of short-roping, when done properly, is to prevent that from happening.

 

I've always wondered if anyone has ever slipped and fallen on the slabs ... No one seems to know.

CAJ 2002, p.108

[G-spotter]

I can't believe the bouldery start on Edible Panties, 5.7 doesn't even merit a comment in the MacLean guide. It's hard!

 

Many moons ago, when we both had more time than money, (and I believe, the day he taught me to place pro) the one and only Dru/Spotter took a whipper there!

He later made up for it by free-soloing some shit near his grade limit.

 

Ah, the memories...

 

i think i fell off there again while trying to solo all the routes a couple years ago. i was going right to left. it was teh suck. so close and yet so far!

 

curse you cherry flavoured edible panties!

[northvanclimber]

there have been only 4 deaths in squamish, but many close calls. the deaths were as follows: one while jugging; one while being lowered; one had a narcoleptic attack and fell as he hiked along an exposed ledge; and one while climbing neat and cool. that's it.

 

add one more, here's the obituary:

"DAVID CHRISTOPHER GUNSTONE, 41, a popular rock climbing enthusiast and guide book writer, died May 31 (2003) in a fall from a cliff in British Columbia. The laid-off Boeing Co. electrical engineer fell about 100 feet while descending Exasperator on the Grand Wall, part of a formation north of Vancouver known as the Squamish Chief."

[G-spotter]

Isn't he the "being lowered" one?

[northvanclimber]

oh, maybe. wasn't sure if that was the same "descending" incident jeffski was referring to. only four deaths, while very tragic for those affected, is a pretty small number considering the number of climbers that visit the area and the number of stupid things you see people do sometimes!

[fern]

there was also a rappel error fatality at Chek earlier this year

[jefffski]

sorry i didn't include her. i guess one could consider chek as squamish.

 

while 4 is a small number, and each one is tragic, there have been many, many close calls.

[RuMR]

If you saw me, you should have hollered. I somehow failed to spot you.

 

I was already pretty drunk after two pitchers of Garibaldi and a dehydrating day in the sun. I had nothing intelligent to say.

...and this is different how?