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Posted

That thing was so brutal. We went up there figuring we could free the whole thing, and I ended up hanging in the chimney (and everywhere else). What a harsh reminder of how much harder alpine is...

Posted

alpine is not harder..

a rating is a rating....

and most people know that "5.8" chimney shit is a bit sandbagged...

 

course if you ask cappellini, I bet he may disagree on the sandbagged...just merely state your chimney technique is subpar for 5.8.

Posted

A rating is a rating? Calling a donkey a horse doesn't make it a horse.

 

If you took any of the harder pitches and put them on lower town wall, they would probably be downrated. (though the chimney would be bumped up a couple numbers, if there is a god). But that's got nothing to do with why alpine is harder. It's harder because of the approach, the location, loose rock, lichen, basically all the shit that is not involved in cragging.

Posted

The Chimney would be 5.9 in Yosemite. The traverse pitch under the roof is much easier if you are under 5'9. Sure the CBR pitches would be down-rated if they were at the lower town wall but the ratings at index are different than the rest of the United States west of the Mississippi.

Posted
The Chimney would be 5.9 in Yosemite. The traverse pitch under the roof is much easier if you are under 5'9. Sure the CBR pitches would be down-rated if they were at the lower town wall but the ratings at index are different than the rest of the United States west of the Mississippi.

 

The enduro corner and under the roof pitches on CBR are rated harder b/c they are almost always wet. There dry this year for some reason.

Posted
A rating is a rating? Calling a donkey a horse doesn't make it a horse.

 

If you took any of the harder pitches and put them on lower town wall, they would probably be downrated. (though the chimney would be bumped up a couple numbers, if there is a god). But that's got nothing to do with why alpine is harder. It's harder because of the approach, the location, loose rock, lichen, basically all the shit that is not involved in cragging.

 

holy crickets man...I am sorry If I insulted you.

 

YOU must be talking about the GRADE....

 

I guess if your craggin world is based out of Tennessee (like your location states) then, yeah I can believe you about craggin not involving loose rock, lichen, approach and whatever location means (south or north slope?)...but then perhaps craggin to you is buying an instruction manual and clipping bolts. I really don't know...

 

as many times in the past, I suppose I was too vague and confusing with my simple statement... alpine is not harder...its just between your ears man...basically, a lame excuse.

 

CBR is a hard route (hence the 5.11+/12- YDS rating) and furthermore described as a GRADE IV rock outing...or ONE hella long day. And actually, refering to my Beckey instruction Manual for CBR the chimney pitch (that produces much complaints and bitching about being sandbagged) is refrenced as 5.9 in the topo...

Posted

Whoa, whoa. You didn't insult me. No worries. That was just my generic reaction, because I see so many comments on this site by people about a given climb who speak with authority without ever having done it (which I am not saying is the case with you).

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