[TR] South Face Direct- Forbidden Peak- South Face Direct 8/5/2006

[Jens]

Climb: South Face Direct- Forbidden Peak-South Face Direct

 

Date of Climb: 8/5/2006

 

Trip Report:

After a failed attempt on the first winter ascent of the south face direct route on Forbidden Peak with Pax a few years back, I came back to make a summer climb of the route. Greg Carter (a buddy from the Seattle Vertical World) and I left Seattle at 1am and eventually slogged to the base. We climbed through the overhaning band via the right hand option mentioned in the Nelson guide. A blue green streak marked the start. After a while, we reached the fixed belay high point from my winter attempt. After several more hours, we reached the final headwall below the summit. The 1977 route finishes on an easy slab that ends a few feet west of the summit. Just for kicks, I lead an overhanging corner a few feet to the left for a top out for a more demanding finish. The rock down low on the route was awful but up high it was awesome. In these modern times, the route was not difficult, however due to the mandatory 40 foot runouts on 5.9 friction face climbing, a winter ascent (without a lot of ice formed) may be at least a decade away in may humble opinion. The crux pitch as described in the guidebooks went at about 5.10a/b. On the way out, Greg spiked himself pretty bad with his crampon but managed to hike out without a single complaint. Today he got stitches! Other than the wound, It was a fine day out in the hills.

Greg Having fun!

The overhanging 10c pitch (just for fun)

 

Gear Notes:

No bug spray needed.

Water available everywhere.

Cascade river road is due for a grating.

 

[Weekend_Climberz]

 

Probably a rarely done route, nice tag.

[colt45]

Awesome! Thanks for the photos. Did you take a look at the supposedly better-protected left option at the start?

[Jens]

The left option for the start looked like it had some water seeping down it.

[gregc]

Jens,

Great route. I had a ton of fun. Thanks for the pics. Hey, I almost look like I know what I'm doing.

Thanks

Greg

[layton]

Marcus and I did this route yesterday car to Portland (thinking it had been quite some time since the last party had been on it!!!).

It was a neat little route, but the rock was kinda shit. We forgot the topo, but I'm certain we did the 1st and last pitch right. I'll post a pic or two later.

[Alpinfox]

 

Glad you got up that thing Jens. Was your gear from the winter bail still there? Nobody bootied it eh?

 

Guess that route really doesn't get done much.

[DirtyHarry]

Marcus and I did this route yesterday car to Portland (thinking it had been quite some time since the last party had been on it!!!).

It was a neat little route, but the rock was kinda shit. We forgot the topo, but I'm certain we did the 1st and last pitch right. I'll post a pic or two later.

 

You guys do Freedom Writer too or just skip WA Pass completely?

[layton]

yeah we did that route in 0 pitches, completly bypassing everything.

[catbirdseat]

Climb: South Face Direct- Forbidden Peak-South Face Direct

 

Date of Climb: 8/5/2006

 

 

This is the Greg we met at Exit 32! Only a few short months ago he was a gym climber. What an awesome mentor to have! Edited August 8, 2006 by catbirdseat

[DirtyHarry]

yeah we did that route in 0 pitches, completly bypassing everything.

 

That's great style, really low impact on the rock.

[layton]

Here are pics from Marcus and my trip to S.Face Direct Forbidden. Marcus is alpine ninja with his matching jacket against the rock and cool bandana.

 

 

 

 

 

[pms]

Having climbed both starts, my memory is that both were decent to pretty good. It's on the upper part where I'm confused. The first time I loved the climb and thought the rock was pretty darn good.. The second time we got into some funky rock and I didn't like the climb so much. Both times we ended up on the same ledge just below the top that Jens describes. Pax get back up there and figure out where the best route is. Jens, Greg, Marcus, Mike; can you draw a line on a picture where you climbed before you forget? I think the second time Bill and I may have strayed a bit right from where John and I climbed. I remember I had some nice pics of John Stoddard. I should dig them out.

[olyclimber]

yeah pax, drag my gumby ass up there. put the rope up, and i'll thrutch up.

[Lowlander]

I wouldn't mind seeing some lines of the routes either. Interested to know the routes that other people took. Did this route 2 years ago and didn't really think much of it. Not that it was bad, just wouldn't do it again.