Who is the Minnehaha bolt cop?

[pindude]

In the last 30 days or so, somebody has chopped up to a dozen or more bolts used for anchors at the top of the walls at Minnehaha Rocks-Shields Park in Spokane. These are not bolts near the edge, and are typically those that are further back and several feet further away from the edge. This same act occured about 2-3 years ago, with the person(s) first identifying the bolts and hangers they were going to remove by spray-painting them, and then subsequently removing them days later. Whoever you are:

 

1. Cease and desist your bolt and hanger removal

2. Identify yourself

3. Explain your actions

 

This forum is appropriate for response, but you are also welcome to contact me directly.

 

Steve Reynolds

Mead, WA

[Roadstead1]

Steve, I thought you were the New Bolt Cop? It's about time someone cleaned the top off of all that Crap! We talked about this once, it was out at McLellan and it was those very bolts and why they were there in the first place (Sport Rappelers). Last time I was climbing out at Minne was the last time Paul Fish gave a rats ass about the Climbers in Spokane! I'm sure He will give you more Hangers. Cost + 10

 

Good Luck

[pindude]

Dave,

"New bolt cop"? I'm not sure what you're talking about. Unless you're just giving me a gentle elbow in the ribs, then you got me. Bolt placement at Minne normally has been a cooperative, community effort, especially the TR anchors up on top. I may be jumping on this issue, which may now make me some sort of bolt cop, but I'm certainly not doing it in a vacuum, isolated from others.

 

I can't remember what we talked about a couple years ago. Sport rappellers aren't that common around there anymore that I've noticed--I've seen just a couple instances in the last 2 years. Regardless, I don't think sport rappers have anything to do with placing or removing Minne's bolts.

 

While Paul's biz has continued to grow and he sells to climbers far beyond Spokane, I know he still cares very much about Minne. Paul, as well as Lon at Mountain Goat, have indeed offered bolts and hangers at cost when bolts/hangers have been vandalized before: but that still ain't free for the likes of me. That's still money (and time) out of myself and others, not to mention the cost of the drill and bits as you know. Most of the anchors I've placed on top, and for all of the few new routes I've worked on, I've paid retail.

 

Thanks for wishing me luck, I hope I don't need it.

 

******

 

This same act of bolt removal of TR anchors up top at Minne occurred 2-3 years ago the with the person(s) first identifying the bolts and hangers they were to remove by spraying them with red paint, then removing them several days later. Those anchors were replaced by myself and a few other climbers.

 

The anchors that have been removed--both a couple years ago and most recently--are essential and used for at least 2 purposes:

 

1. Instruction (belaying, rappelling, tethering away from the edge) for many programs including those for area high schools, colleges, and several other groups.

 

2. Anchors for those who have led a particular route and need to clip in AWAY from the edge at the top of a route.

 

Whoever is doing the removal may not be doing it with malicious intentions, and is possibly trying to do what they may think is environmentally correct: They are removing the hangers, chopping off the bolts/studs flush at the rock, and then covering them up with some sort of glue and dirt...obviously trying to do a "good job" of hiding any trace or scars from the original bolts. They are doing this above routes that typically have two bolts near the very edge, such that the bolts being removed are the 3rd and 4th bolts above a particular line furthest away from the edge. Whatever the intentions, these actions are misguided and are nothing more than vandalism.

 

The removed anchors will be replaced, and I'd like to at least get the removed hangers back.

 

If any of you know who the responsible person(s) is, please contact me directly. I'm not out to crucify anyone, but rather speak with and educate whoever is doing this. If necessary, I will be discreet. I and other individuals, with the help of other climbers and the outdoor shops of Mountain Gear and Mountain Goat, and all the groups who use Minne as a venue to teach, have an investment (financial and otherwise) in these anchors.

Edited August 7, 2006 by pindude

[Roadstead1]

Steve, If you can't remember what we talked about, that would be my point. You don't care what I have to say about McLellan, so why should we/they care what you have say about anything. You say they are needed bolts and should be there, I say your wrong and there just up there for the weak sauce that can't set up there own Belays/Anchors for a TR or a rappel. Know one leads out at Minne and if they do it's after topropeing the route many, many times. I say you teach them how to do it right and then let Darwin do the rest.

 

I don't mean to be a Ass it is just who I am. "A ASS"

[catbirdseat]

Why don't you just admit you are the "bolt cop"?

[drater]

I'd check into that Marty character. Totally unscrupulous and probably needed the hangers for new routes. What with the lagging guide book sales and all....

 

 

Maybe Donnie Baker knows something?

[iain]

I love these eastern washington crag threads. Swear to god I do.

[drater]

Swear to god, let's talk about Dishman some more.

 

 

I want to bolt inflatable genitalia to all the blank spots.

 

Anybody got a frickin problem with that?

[Marty]

Well Steve, how does it feel to get the bolts yanked off stuff you like to climb on? kinda sucks huh? Now you know how the folks at Dishman felt a few years back after the anti-bolt clean up party.

And no, I didn't do it nor do I have a clue who did, or even care for that matter(I admit, I'm chuckling a little on the inside). Hopefully whoever did it, will take all the hangers and put them on the routes below where they belong. Maybe the'll even put a nice set of stainless chains w/ beaner at top. Minne is the stupidest crag ive ever been to. More bolts on the top of the cliff than in the face. Totally retarded.

[Marty]

(Dear reader, please use lisp while reading first paragraph. And while reading my version of the song below, please gently hum Culture Club's, "Karma Chameleon", out loud or just to yourself. Thanks.)

Steve, i was just so angry about your hypocritical post, that you made me think of MY angry place and my angry song. So here goes. Let me sing it to you girl.

 

Kar"minne" Chameleon

 

Mountaineer loving in your eyes all the way

If I listen to your lies would you say

I'm a man without ethics

I'm a man who doesn't know

How to treat the environment

You toprope and go

You toprope and go

 

Karma Karma Karma Karma "Minnehaha" Chameleon

You come and toprope

You come and toprope

Bolting would be easy

If you'd wear your shorts over you sweatpants

Grammichi, and Adidas

Grammichi, and Adidas

 

Never heard the Moutaineers words for even one day

And they're supposed to be so smart, but I heard you say

That my bolting was an addiction

When we're hangdoging, our love is so strong

But if the crags not bolted

You toprope alone

You toprope alone

 

Karma Karma Karma Karma "Minnehaha" Chameleon

You lecture and go

You lecture and go

Climbing would be easy

If the Mountaineers were like in my dreams

They'd lead 5.9

Not toprope 5.9

 

Every climb at "minne" is like survival

Pro so bad, I swear on the Bible

Climbin' at "minne" is like survival

One false move, and you'll be with the devil

 

I'm a man who hates natural pro

I'm a man who clips bolts and go

Now lets start a new tradition

Clip bolts at "minne" and go

Clip bots at "minne" and go

 

Karma Karma Karma Karma "Minnehaha" Chameleon

You instruct gumbies and go

You instruct gumbies and go

Climbing would be easy

If your ethics were like my dream

Climb shiny bolts, and clean

Climb shiny bolts, and clean

 

 

THANK YOU, THANK YOU. THANKS FOLKS. PLEASE STOP YOUR APPLAUSE, (especially pindude). THIS SONG, ALONG WITH MY OTHER HITS WILL BE AVAILABLE AT YOUR LOCAL WALLMART OCT 32. Please do not try to contact me for an early release. Thanks, Marty.

P.S. I'd check the back of Donnie Baker's pickup for hangers, crowbars, and the like. If there were any PBR cans, pitbull hair, or other tell tale signs of the redneck around the crime scene, you can bet on that tool for sure.

[billcoe]

I love these eastern washington crag threads. Swear to god I do.

 

It's a lot like a train wreck that way, very entertaining.

 

Marty, not bad, how about the next one has the Beverley Hillbillys song for a backdrop tune?

[DonnyBaker]

Hey man gotta tell ya what happend when I saw this post. I went nuts. . There's a new sherrif in town, huh I'll be your hukleberry. Say it to my face marty, elton john sucks anyway, besides you got that song stuck in my head You guys should use glueins I swear to god their the green light man. besides you'd have to dynamite them out of their anyway, you can' even own dynamite anyway state law

[olyclimber]

the fiction is stranger than truth

[NYC007]

hmmmm, by that song we all know your not a trad climber. I am not a mountaineer and I dont wear shorts over polypro(synth. underwear). I But I do climb at Minne, it is one of our better trad training grounds for bigger routes. I dont recall many runouts but hey. Oh and bringing up bolted cracks compared to top anchors is really revelant, how, dunno. I do think some of the anchors were not placed very well but I am guess that has beginners in mind.

[Normanjohnson]

How about this one, from James Blunt - with a little Wierd Al.

 

YOU'RE PITIFUL (YOU'RE BEAUTIFUL)

 

Sport climbings' brilliant.

Trad Climbings' a joke.

Mountaineerings' pathetic.

Aid just aint dope.

 

You're pitiful

You're pitiful

You're pitiful its true.

You cant climb face

Cuz your skills disgrace

and you're slow and jerky too.

What a bummer being you.

 

You hate 5.10

Cuz it's harder than sin

I guess you should go out and repeat

. . . Dihedral again.

First you chop bolts

then you bitch about it too

Well a hypocrite is you.

What a bummer being you.

 

Repeat Chorus.//End.

 

By the way - I always figured Marty liked Boy George.

[spotly]

... I do think some of the anchors were not placed very well but I am guess that has beginners in mind.

I believe that was their original purpose. Mainly for teaching newbies the mechanics of rapping without them having to also worry about lowering over the edge safely. I used them the first time off the top with help from people like Steve and I can say they were very helpful and allowed the instructors to make sure I was hooked up right.

 

Regarding recreational rappers, I'm out there at least 3 days a week and I have seen a huge increase this year. Not sure if that's a terrible thing or not - just a nuisance at this point. There is one group in particular that has been chucking their beer cans and cigarette butts all over the routes - I know who they are because I've met them but haven't seen them since I've noticed their garbabe. Could be possible that someone else reached their limit with them and started whacking bolts - just a guess. If so, good intentions but bad choice IMHO.

[fishburneiv]

There is one group in particular that has been chucking their beer cans and cigarette butts all over the routes - I know who they are because I've met them but haven't seen them since I've noticed their garbage.

 

Tragic.

 

Beer cans, cigarette butts, bolt wars, Donny Baker?!

 

Spotly, please tell me that Spokane has just been getting negative press (like Bush? ) here on CC, and that there are tons of cool, non-feuding, non-polluting, tolerant climber out there.

[drater]

OMFG, it's a Song Off.

 

Throw down some cardboard boyz!!!

[drater]

 

Spotly, please tell me that Spokane has just been getting negative press (like Bush? ) here on CC, and that there are tons of cool, non-feuding, non-polluting, tolerant climber out there.

 

Wrong

[Valerie]

I have a hard time reading anything negative about Steve; he has a very sound and well thought out reason for protecting those bolts that are there to aid new climbers. If you don't like it then you should go purchase some land of your own and climb on unbolted routes. If it weren't for people like Steve, Minne would still be covered with garbage, glass, used condoms and syringes. And, I have been a student using those back up anchors for additional safety and although I don't use them now, I see no need to remove them. I'm not so self-centered as to think that because I don't use them they shouldn't be there.

[spotly]

There is one group in particular that has been chucking their beer cans and cigarette butts all over the routes - I know who they are because I've met them but haven't seen them since I've noticed their garbage.

 

Tragic.

 

Beer cans, cigarette butts, bolt wars, Donny Baker?!

 

Spotly, please tell me that Spokane has just been getting negative press (like Bush? ) here on CC, and that there are tons of cool, non-feuding, non-polluting, tolerant climber out there.

 

Of course...there are 3 of us if you include Donny

[Fat_Kid]

I'll step up to the cardboard

Thinking Bon Jovi

Woke up in the Mornin

And chopped some Minnie bolts

Had a crowbar for a pillow

and dirty condoms were last nights bed.

 

Dont know what Im choppin

Only donny baker knows were ive been

Im a chopper on the run

Sport route lover

A gambler on the sharp end

 

Taken bolts out in a Blaze of Glory

[spicoli11]

I do belive this

[bigbro]

 

What happened to low impact climbing?

Five bolted anchors for one climb is excessive. When are the handrails, fixed safety lines, and ladders being installed?

 

Obviously, there are people on this site that do not want the bolts replaced. Maybe this is something to think about before more holes are drilled.

[drater]

I think we need to get Dane Burns opinion on this little dilemna.

 

Dane, to the green room, calling Dane to the green room....

 

Wonder how his little subforum ever turned out?