rat Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 on sunday, cappellini and i climbed a line on the northeast side of mcclellan peak. the climb is obvious from snow lake and the dike and upper pillar are interesting features when seen from certain places in the range. we started in the clean white corner just right of the dike and climbed four nice pitches of 5.8 corners and face cracks to the top of the lower buttress. about 400' of hiking and 4th class led to the upper pillar. we climbed three pitches just right of the prow to the top of this feature. i butchered the first pitch with whining c1 but dan had no trouble seconding and thought it was only 5.10 or so. he then led a ropelength of sustained 5.10 and i lurched up another pitch of 5.9+. we topped out on a gendarme a short ways east of the summit and bailed. downclimbing to the west brought us back to the packs and a long walk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 Nice. Just talked about going up there within the last 3 days... I should quit talking and start doing. - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 How about a picture? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwrts Posted July 26, 2006 Share Posted July 26, 2006 Typically, pictures are only in their heads. How about a layton style topo? The line looks sick. I have a nice photo of mcClellan in my house, and yes it is mine. I agree RC, less talk and more CYSM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 lessee the line! get some crayons and some construcktun paper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roboboy Posted July 29, 2006 Share Posted July 29, 2006 here's a photo of McClellan Pk, NE side, from Enchantments trail, a bit distant. I think the major tower on the left is Rocket Pk. so where's the route ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted July 30, 2006 Share Posted July 30, 2006 I have an enormous crayon, should it become necessary. How hard was it? C1 or less? Could a highly motivated party free this shizzle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rat Posted July 31, 2006 Author Share Posted July 31, 2006 cappellini would have freed the 20' i butchered if he drew the lead. i've been working too much. check the photo gallery for a rough idea where the line goes. i don't know how to attach it to the post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cappellini Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 the red line is wrong near the top, a little closer to the prow....no it is not rocket peak, rocket is a boulder to the east Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan_forester Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 less talk and more CYSM. I finally figured out what this acronym means...took me long enough. But then again, I'm from Minnesota, where they say "STFU & CYTF" Which can mean anywhere from ten to thirty feet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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