olyclimber Posted July 23, 2006 Posted July 23, 2006 Is is possible to set up a top rope on Keiths crack from an easier route? Has anyone done this one lately? Is it clean? Perhaps with global warming the cooler middle wall will see more traffic? Quote
Rad Posted July 23, 2006 Posted July 23, 2006 The Middle Wall topo suggests not. I have TRd the the 11a MW crack after leading Robin's ramp. It's an awesome, if short, finger and hand crack. It looks like you can TR several other steep, hard lines from the top anchor of RR. Enjoy! Quote
lancegranite Posted July 23, 2006 Posted July 23, 2006 Well, I never posted such a large picture of myself, but I guess it's ok for you to do so. Note the Index tick list shirt, homemade hat and pants and custom marble bag that holds the pieces of scavenged chalk... Quote
olyclimber Posted July 23, 2006 Author Posted July 23, 2006 ya, saw your picture in the gallery and am inspired to go check the middle wall out. looks like a few good climbs and some escape from the heat could be had up there. Quote
olyclimber Posted July 24, 2006 Author Posted July 24, 2006 ya, i suppose those glaciers are melting because its getting colder thanks for the info slaphappy, sounds like it is worth a trip. Quote
lancegranite Posted July 24, 2006 Posted July 24, 2006 Be sure to find the tree rappel in the trees below Kieths, it leads to a bolted anchor on top of Gorilla of my dreams at the Winkie Dinky cliff, where you can get a few more pitches in. Better than the walk back down the upper wall trail. One can then rap to Terminal Preppie (by Roger's corner), making for a TR-riffic day of climbing! Quote
Adventurewagen Posted October 16, 2006 Posted October 16, 2006 Just ran across this thread. Is that picture from July or an old one? My buddies and I just unearthed Keiths Crack sometime earler in June 06. Wonderful line but it was so overgrown. We dropped tons of dirt, bushes and trees out of the top crack just over the lip and refound a couple ledges in there. Still needed more cleaning last time we left it but was lead climbable again and from the looks of the picture it has gotten some continued traffic. I don't think it had seen more than a couple TR's in the last few years if not less. Anyone been up there since June or is the pic really old? Its a great line but is gonna need some traffic to keep it from being reclaimed. Quote
MCash Posted October 16, 2006 Posted October 16, 2006 bwr and I were up at the Mid Wall last Thursday. Keith's Crack, Plum Pudding, Robin's Ramp, and several other lines look to all have been recently cleaned. That "0 star" 5.10 dihedral right of Plum Pudding and that 10C thin crack on the upper slab look great too. Both look like they were recently cleaned. Thanks for the great work up there! Quote
bwrts Posted October 16, 2006 Posted October 16, 2006 Just ran across this thread. Is that picture from July or an old one? My buddies and I just unearthed Keiths Crack sometime earler in June 06. Wonderful line but it was so overgrown. We dropped tons of dirt, bushes and trees out of the top crack just over the lip and refound a couple ledges in there. Still needed more cleaning last time we left it but was lead climbable again and from the looks of the picture it has gotten some continued traffic. I don't think it had seen more than a couple TR's in the last few years if not less. Anyone been up there since June or is the pic really old? Its a great line but is gonna need some traffic to keep it from being reclaimed. By the length of LG's hair I would say maybe as old as he's been climbing.... Yeah, it is an old photo. I am sure Lance can give us the exact date.... Quote
lancegranite Posted October 17, 2006 Posted October 17, 2006 I think the photo was taken around 1993. a great route! My friend Derek put up some routes above Robin's ramp, the Blue Tile Lounge area. Might be worth a look, check it out. Quote
MCash Posted October 17, 2006 Posted October 17, 2006 How do you get up there? Didn't a see a path. Maybe top out on the Mid Wall first? Quote
lancegranite Posted October 17, 2006 Posted October 17, 2006 Access from the top of Robins ramp. Never been there, Darrel's book gives directions. Quote
tradclimbguy Posted October 17, 2006 Posted October 17, 2006 How do you get up there? Didn't a see a path. Maybe top out on the Mid Wall first? Take the trail to the upper wall. Eventually you run into a Y once you get about as high up as the lower wall. If you are on the right trail it will take you to another split. Go left and your at the Rythm and Blues cliff, go more or less straight and you cross a cool old wooden bridge and a couple of sets of stairs people put in years ago. The bridge is getting a bit of dry rot and is kinda sketchy to cross but fun and the stairwells are both in need of rot repair. Sorry I can't give better directions to the initial Y on the trial to the upper wall, we just found it again this season after years and years of not being up their since some of that stuff was originally put in. You can descend via Gorilla of my dreams and then down the trail that leads you to even steven and toxic. I guess you could go up that way too. Quote
Bug Posted October 18, 2006 Posted October 18, 2006 It ain't mine but its just as dirty. When I was climbing up there regularly, it got cleaned off every year and the path was well beaten down. It was usually a hangout in the afternoon where folks would gather to climb out of the heat and put up a cloud. Quote
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