Heart of the Country

[Tony_Bentley]

Pitch 3 is not .11a

[eric8]

is this another round of state the obvious?

[EWolfe]

Pitch 3 is not .11a

 

Ya think?

[AlpineK]

Pitch 3 is not .11a

 

Ya think?

 

Don't burst my bubble.

[Tony_Bentley]

All three books say .11a

 

 

Whatever.

[Punter]

Where does P3 go? Does it continue in the dirty corner above the bolts or one of the cracks farther left on the ledge?

[Gary_Yngve]

Further to the left. The crack shrinks to .75 Camelot and goes over a bulge, shrinking to yellow alien. Really just a bouldery move. Then it's easy ground to the GM p3 anchor.

 

Now if anyone can tell me how the Sag roof is supposedly 11b... (if you're 6'6", you don't count)

[matt_m]

Further to the left. The crack shrinks to .75 Camelot and goes over a bulge, shrinking to yellow alien. Really just a bouldery move. Then it's easy ground to the GM p3 anchor.

 

Now if anyone can tell me how the Sag roof is supposedly 11b... (if you're 6'6", you don't count)

 

I'll second this! I'm 6 even and J Gardens P1 feels easier!

[RuMR]

Further to the left. The crack shrinks to .75 Camelot and goes over a bulge, shrinking to yellow alien. Really just a bouldery move. Then it's easy ground to the GM p3 anchor.

 

Now if anyone can tell me how the Sag roof is supposedly 11b... (if you're 6'6", you don't count)

 

hmmm...i'm about 5'-5" and i think sag is .11b...maybe you're too tall???

Edited April 20, 2006 by RuMR

[Sol]

i think the best thing to do on that route is link p2(the 5.9 roof) with p3(the 10a handcrack) with the "11a" extension for 110 ft 5.10c. jump on phone calls from the dead, that things about spot on for 5.11a.

[Tony_Bentley]

PCFTD is spectacular. I grabbed the chains for the finish move though. I didn't see the hold directly to the right of the chains and couldn't think of what to do!

 

Frosty, next time I think I will just keep going to the top anchors. Gotta save another #2 for the upper crack though.

[TimL]

Further to the left. The crack shrinks to .75 Camelot and goes over a bulge, shrinking to yellow alien. Really just a bouldery move. Then it's easy ground to the GM p3 anchor.

 

Now if anyone can tell me how the Sag roof is supposedly 11b... (if you're 6'6", you don't count)

 

hmmm...i'm about 5'-5" and i think sag is .11b...maybe you're too tall???

 

I'm about 5-9, and thing Sag is 11b. Its just one or two hard moves. Jap Gardens feels like 11c. Heart of the Country P3 is not 11a.

[TimL]

Who has been on Steel Monkey? That thing is pretty hard for the grade, but the gear is all good!

[soulreaper]

Steel Monkey is excellent and now even a little more consistently difficult after the large blocky jug fell off. Actually I think you, Jens and I were out there before it fell off, Tim.

[TimL]

Soul Reaper, Yikes...the block fell off? When? You mean there is not a perfect hand jam behind the block? Can't wait to jump back on that route when I come back this summer. Been thinking about that last move. Excellent climb!

[RyanTriplett]

I was there the day it fell out (though I wasn't the one) and came back the following weekend to "resend" it. This was about a month ago. I would say the grade remains around .12a, but do note that placing gear is much more strenuous now that standing on the top of the block is not an option. I managed to get an RP in while laying back the side pull just below where the seam/crack starts and smearing with my left foot in the new void. The jam that I think you are refering to remains.