Highlander Posted June 28, 2002 Posted June 28, 2002 Climbed Serpentine Arete with Greg W on 6/24-6/25. After the routine hike into Colchuck Lake we pouched a flat bivi spot on the Talus field. We spent the rest of the day wathching day hikers go up and down Asgard Pass. We talked to 3 groups who had climbed the West Ridge of Prussik. The weekend before we climbed Prussik and had it to ourselves. We settled into our bivi sacs early being annoyed by moskitos. We awoke at 5:30 and were on our way up Colchuck Glacier within an hour. Snow was firm and kicking steps was difficult in spots. The approach to the base of the wall took longer than expected. No problems gaining access to the wall, there was a nice snow ramp with a moat below. We had intended on soloing the first portion of the climb, but there was a lot of runnning water so we set up belays. We had no problems with route finding to the pillar. The off width pitch leading up to it was a little nasty with running water in it. The cracks next to the pillar offered some nice climbing begining with a finger crack and turning to a hand crack. We belayed a couple more pitches and at that point I knew we were way behind where I would like us to be. We began simul climbing making decent time, but the rock quality began to deteriate, lots of loose rock. Some route finding challenges on the upper section of the route. The sun was begining to set and we knew we were in a race we could not win. It got dark, and I pulled out the head lamp. Greg was concerned about how much longer we could continue in the dark and thought we should consider a bivi. I was willing to keep going, so I lead off just heading up-up. Greg had no head lamp and had fun cleaning the pro. Eventually I heard the loud roar of wind and knew we were close to the top and then I topped out, without stopping I continued down to a ledge, pulling Greg over the top. BY this time it was 11:00 and quite cold. Greg mentioned possibly biving and waiting for daylight. I started batmanning around trying to find a decent route. Eventually after lots of downclimbing and looking around I spotted some rap slings. We made three rappels and were down to the snow. Routine hike down asgard pass, with good plung stepping. We made back to camp as the sun was begining to come up. We had been on the go for 24 hours. We enjoyed plenty of horsecock and water, then began the five mile death march back to the truck. Fun climb and a good time . Greg may have some other views. Route should be in fine condition in a week or two, with most of the snow melted off the route. Quote
Greg_W Posted June 28, 2002 Posted June 28, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Highlander: Fun climb and a good time Word up!! Climbing in the dark was a great new experience. Currently shopping for a ultra-light headlamp . Greg Quote
Bronco Posted June 28, 2002 Posted June 28, 2002 quote: Originally posted by sk: Jeez, even I have a head lamp Greg W is just old school, duct tape and a flash light are more versitle than a headlamp anyway. Nice job guys, climbing in the dark with one headlamp between 2 folks is certainly not fun in my limited experience. Quote
erik Posted June 28, 2002 Posted June 28, 2002 soundz like the stuart range was the epic triangle this past weekend!!!!! eggsellent!!! had just about the same experience the 1st time too, though we were lucky enough to drop one of our water bottles down low to give us that extra dehydrated visualization effect...kinda cool!!! Quote
hollyclimber Posted June 28, 2002 Posted June 28, 2002 So three double-rope raps got you off Serpentine? I thought most people walked off... Did you check out Backbone at all? Quote
Noway Posted June 29, 2002 Posted June 29, 2002 Holly, I didn't read anything about "double-rope rappels." You sound like an expert on Backbone and Serpentine, maybe you ought to start a guide service on Dragontail. [ 06-28-2002, 06:20 PM: Message edited by: Noway ] Quote
chucK Posted June 29, 2002 Posted June 29, 2002 Climbed Backbone Ridge on 6/24. It is in good shape, no water anywhere. Rock is dry and grippy. There is some snow in the gully leading up to the Fin, but you can easily get around it. You can easily avoid the snow on the 3rd class beginning. Great easy plunge stepping down the couloir leading to the top of Colchuck Col. Quote
Matt Posted June 29, 2002 Posted June 29, 2002 quote: Originally posted by michael_layton: How do you get to colchuck col from the top? via the obvious gulley Quote
chucK Posted June 29, 2002 Posted June 29, 2002 Matt you are a jokester. To get to the couloir walk South from the summit on the gentle bowl on the East side of the Dragon's "Tail". The couloir comes up just North of Pandora's Box. See this stuffon MVS's page. The 4-6th pictures are all relevant. You can't see Pandora's Box from the summit of Dragontail, but you'll find it if you keep walking South near the spine. As I said, right now, that couloir down to Colchuck Col is very benign. It might be worse with less snow. We followed Mattp's advice and camped on the moraine. No bugs up there and made the approach to the start of the route trivial. It did make the descent via Colchuck Glacier almost mandatory though. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 29, 2002 Posted June 29, 2002 Holly, Once on the summit of TailDragginAss Peak you can do the descent without rappels. I think they were off route in the night Quote
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