catbirdseat Posted February 17, 2006 Author Posted February 17, 2006 I'd agree that it does seem rather nervy to solo a route over so many busted up crevasses as the Nisqually Icefall, and I immediately found McKay’s post somewhat persuasive. On the other hand I've done something not too dissimilar and, not only that, but I’ve often said that I have never heard of anybody who was an experienced NW mountaineer falling into a Cascade crevasse and I think that the weather and snowfall patterns here make crevasse detection a little easier than it might be in other ranges where snowfall is not quite so seasonal and prevalent temperatures may not be so moderate (my apologies to the the NW veteran who has in fact fallen in). It would probably be a little safer to wait a week or two after the eight-week snowfalls let up, but she chose a relatively good time to go and I don’t think it was all that outrageous. I say Don't confuse the Nisqually Ice Cliff route for Nisqually Ice Fall. These are very different. There is much less risk of crevasse fall on the Ice Cliff route because much of it is not on glacier.
DirtyHarry Posted February 17, 2006 Posted February 17, 2006 It doesn't look that hard nor a smart thing to solo. Neither is Slipstream, cocksucker.
ivan Posted February 17, 2006 Posted February 17, 2006 anyone else see the irnoy in the amount of testerone getting thrown around in a thread about an estrogene-based climber? i was actually confusing the ice cliff vs ice fall - i remember mtnhigh's frend gettng stuc in a crevasse on the latter for a scary long time (in wnter and surely dead w/o a partner) what's next pandora?
DirtyHarry Posted February 17, 2006 Posted February 17, 2006 Solo of Ice Cliff or Ice Fall or whatever is not like House soloing K7, but its also not the Tooth, either. There was nothing wrong with congratulating Hannah on a fine effort. The fact that Hannah is a girl and a youth makes her solo somewhat more impressive. End of story.
justplanecrazy Posted February 17, 2006 Posted February 17, 2006 It doesn't look that hard nor a smart thing to solo. If this were in a magazine, these would be my thoughts exactly. Seeing as she's a friend to a lot of people on this board then I can understand all the back/ass slapping going on. Hell if I did Robson, I'd expect all of my friends to pat me on the back but if someone posted it on here like it was some big accomplishment, those that didn't know me would care less. As far as it being the smart thing to do, I've never considered glacier travel solo a smart thing to do. Maybe as you say, the Cascades crevasses don't swallow people in the middle of the winter. As far as soloing Slipstream, you know your ability and you know the difficulty of the route, its not walking over fresh snow with huge gaping holes underneath. Joe's got ten times more experience and balls then 99% of the posters on here and he's simply calling it like he sees it.
DirtyHarry Posted February 17, 2006 Posted February 17, 2006 As far as soloing Slipstream, you know your ability and you know the difficulty of the route, Except you don't know whether the big hanging serac above the route is going to unload on your face.
foraker Posted February 17, 2006 Posted February 17, 2006 Joe's got ten times more experience and balls then 99% of the posters on here and he's simply calling it like he sees it. Well dip me in shit and roll me in peanuts! That changes everything doesn't it?
W Posted February 17, 2006 Posted February 17, 2006 What I find most interesting here is that the climber in question- Hannah- didn't even post a trip report about this and it's generating such a conflict. It's not like she went trolling for congratulations. The avalanche of compliments that have ensued, while well-intentioned, perhaps deserved, are also being made into space, so to speak. They were not solicited. While I understand these are people who know her and are just happy for her, I can also understand how some think this appears a bit sycophantic. The further questioning of her judgment and skills is even more off track. We've all soloed on glaciers at some point, nobody ever claimed it was safe. Having climbed both Nisqually Ice Cliff and Nisqually Cleaver, I can tell you the real danger of those routes is the icefall hazard in the cirque beneath them. I was much younger when I did those routes. I can say that today I tend to avoid routes like that, and Hannah probably will someday too. While I don't know this person, I'm not going to second guess her decisions and insights. Like the younger me, she must have had some instinct that told her the ice cliff wouldn't fire off that morning and the crevasse bridges were solid. Moreover, being up on Rainier alone, on any route, winter or summer, is a serious matter for serious people. Hannah seems to be the most serious person here. She's the one not talking. For that, she gets my congratulations.
Dru Posted February 17, 2006 Posted February 17, 2006 As far as soloing Slipstream, you know your ability and you know the difficulty of the route, Except you don't know whether the big hanging serac above the route is going to unload on your face. that serac is pretty mellow these days.
ivan Posted February 17, 2006 Posted February 17, 2006 Well dip me in shit and roll me in peanuts! oddly this image inspires a great hunger in me
scrambled_legs Posted February 17, 2006 Posted February 17, 2006 As far as soloing Slipstream, you know your ability and you know the difficulty of the route, Except you don't know whether the big hanging serac above the route is going to unload on your face. And spending more time below it roping up and placing gear in case a tonne of ice releases is safer how?
justplanecrazy Posted February 18, 2006 Posted February 18, 2006 Joe's got ten times more experience and balls then 99% of the posters on here and he's simply calling it like he sees it. Well dip me in shit and roll me in peanuts! That changes everything doesn't it? I'm out of peanuts but are you saying that a comment from the Newbie at the climbing gymn should hold as much weight as someone like Barry Blanchard when referring to an Alpine climbing route? Joe knows his shit and doesn't roll in it. He's probably just a little baffled as to what all the hype is about, as am I. Good to see that Pandora her self is surprised at this thread and doing these climbs because she loves it, not to brag on cc.com otherwise I'd probably join Griz in the mud slinging. On that note congratulations Hannah, whoever you are.
Billygoat Posted February 18, 2006 Posted February 18, 2006 what a bunch of arrogant, jaded, elitist, ego-centric pricks you guys are. Tex/Griz/Jmckay/JPC, you all have been in your basements, reading back volumes of AAJ by the dim light of 25 watt bulbs a bit too much this dark and lonely winter, methinks
olyclimber Posted February 18, 2006 Posted February 18, 2006 OMG!!! just plane crazy is Barry Blanchard! I knew it! Welcome to the board Barry! Can I kiss your ass?
knotzen Posted February 18, 2006 Posted February 18, 2006 Ah, the fraternity of the rope. It warms me heart.
foraker Posted February 18, 2006 Posted February 18, 2006 (edited) Joe's got ten times more experience and balls then 99% of the posters on here and he's simply calling it like he sees it. Well dip me in shit and roll me in peanuts! That changes everything doesn't it? I'm out of peanuts but are you saying that a comment from the Newbie at the climbing gymn should hold as much weight as someone like Barry Blanchard when referring to an Alpine climbing route? Joe knows his shit and doesn't roll in it. He's probably just a little baffled as to what all the hype is about, as am I. Good to see that Pandora her self is surprised at this thread and doing these climbs because she loves it, not to brag on cc.com otherwise I'd probably join Griz in the mud slinging. On that note congratulations Hannah, whoever you are. No one's hyping her as if she deserved a medal or the front cover or Alpinist magazine here, Einstein. The fact that you and Barry Whoever seem to think that we are says volumes about you and your ilk's reading comprehension skills, as well as your overly-sensitive, testosterone-poisoned egos. Maybe you and Barry ought to do a little soul searching and ask yourselves why you got so bent about it? Edited February 18, 2006 by foraker
justplanecrazy Posted February 18, 2006 Posted February 18, 2006 Joe's got ten times more experience and balls then 99% of the posters on here and he's simply calling it like he sees it. Well dip me in shit and roll me in peanuts! That changes everything doesn't it? I'm out of peanuts but are you saying that a comment from the Newbie at the climbing gymn should hold as much weight as someone like Barry Blanchard when referring to an Alpine climbing route? Joe knows his shit and doesn't roll in it. He's probably just a little baffled as to what all the hype is about, as am I. Good to see that Pandora her self is surprised at this thread and doing these climbs because she loves it, not to brag on cc.com otherwise I'd probably join Griz in the mud slinging. On that note congratulations Hannah, whoever you are. No one's hyping her as if she deserved a medal or the front cover or Alpinist magazine here, Einstein. The fact that you and Barry Whoever seem to think that we are says volumes about you and your ilk's reading comprehension skills, as well as your overly-sensitive, testosterone-poisoned egos. 7 pages of congratulations and you don't think its hype?? Fuck I post a question about the difficulty of the climb and congratulate the girl for climbing for the love of climbing and I'm the overly-sensitive, testosterone-poisoned ego???? If you weren't trying to get in the poor girls pants, you'd probably reply with some route beta you fucking neanderthals.
foraker Posted February 18, 2006 Posted February 18, 2006 Yeah, aren't you special. Give him a hand folks. If you people like you and Griz hadn't chimed in, it'd have been a page or so of people who know Hannah personally just giving her a high five. But, no, you had to make it sound like we'd annointed her the Living Goddess of Alpinism. Apparently, you don't undertand the concept of 'camaraderie' and 'esprit de corps'. You do seem to understand the concept of simply trying to 'get in a girls pants' though. This might be the root of your anger issues.
olyclimber Posted February 18, 2006 Posted February 18, 2006 actually, its 1 or 2 pages of people recognizing someone for their personal achievement. The rest is people argueing. real,intense, passionate bullshit. Go find another thread to shit in guys.
Billygoat Posted February 18, 2006 Posted February 18, 2006 The "hype" is that Hannah is a regular poster here and we are psyched that she went out in the middle of winter and solo'd a committing, exposed route on a big mountain. She's a friend and we're giving her props. Plus it is the first summit of 2006 for Rainier.
Cobra_Commander Posted February 18, 2006 Posted February 18, 2006 if you post to this thread you are an asshole. fuck.
justplanecrazy Posted February 18, 2006 Posted February 18, 2006 FUCK!!! I guess I should have just come out and said Bitch get in the fucking kitchen and bake me some apple pie!!!! Instead of slapping my penis, why don't you read my fucking posts and realise that I'm actually giving her props also. The way it was originally posted, it sounded like the next big step in Alpinism. I understand that it's a bunch of friends ass slapping and I think that's great. If anyone is questioning her accomplishment, its because it originally came across sounding like a solo ascent of everest in a bikini. As much fun as its been watching you guys stick up for her like the presidents security watching his daughter tour a trailer park on welfare day, I think I'll retire from this thread and watch someone else giving props get slammed.
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