mountaineering rope recomendations

[illegalviking]

I am getting contradictory advice on selecting a rope to be used for cascade mountaineering. What thickness and length of rope do you recomend? 10.5 x 60 or perhaps an 8mm x 30. If I did go with say the Beal Rando 8 x 30 would I need 2 ropes for a twin rope setup. Thanks for your expert advice...

[andrewbanandrew]

something thin cos 10.5 is heavy as fuck

[counterfeitfake]

What does "cascade mountaineering" mean? If you're planning on slogging up a lot of glaciers, I think that rando looks great- it's light and cheap. If you want to climb any rock beyond a sport route, 30m probably isn't going to cut it.

[fenderfour]

I always recommend going with a 50m single rope. That way you don't have to buy a new one when you start top-roping. The extra weight isn't that big of a deal. If it is, you should train more.

[Dru]

If you want to climb any rock beyond bouldering, 30m probably isn't going to cut it.

[chris]

The Rando rope is stricty for glacier travel and short rappels. If you're looking for a jack of all trade, master of none rope to be used on alpine rock and glacier travel, then I'd go for the lightest 60m rope I could find.

[Couloir]

The rando rope would be ok, but make sure you size your pussiks down accordingly so they work when you need them.

 

I tend to echo others in that ~9mm x ~50m single is a good choice for what it sounds like you're into.

[dbconlin]

I'd go for the lightest 60m rope I could find.

 

I agree, and that rope would be the Beal Joker (9.1) or the Mammut Revelation (9.2).

[northvanclimber]

for mountaineering, where you're just on snow and ice and not hitting anything techical, a half rope is often nice and light and perfectly strong enough... but, beware,if you're dragging it over lots of sharp rock or will hit any real technical climbing, a light single rope's probably the best (9.2-9.8 ought to be fine). half ropes also suck sometimes for prussiking and they stretch a heck of a lot too so some would argue they're not the best for glacier travel.

[joel20]

But half ropes are good because they do stretch more, meaning that they don't put as much stress on the gear. Also you can just use one of those ropes for glacier travel.

 

Dragging them over sharp rock? Try not to because many times it's unnecessary seeing as you don't have to clip both ropes into the same pro.

 

Then again I have been leaning more towards what they use in europe. Sport and direct trad routes, with a walk down descent go with a light single that is 60m long like they suggested. If you're planning on doing alot of rappeling and climbing on less less than perfectly solid ice get a half rope. Not only does it not pull on gear as bad during a fall but it also allows for more rock pro placement without zig zagging while climbing narrow ice falls.

[sweatinoutliquor]

Mammut genesis 8.5mm (60m)... Perfect for 2 or 3 person glacier travel, fold it in half for more technical belayed situations. Helps to have the option for a 30m rap I think.

[sweatinoutliquor]

dude, have you checked this thread since you posted the question or are you just fucking with us?

[illegalviking]

Yes I have checked the board for your advice and replies, my apologies for the belated thank you. After talking with some friends and reading the CC board. I bought the Beal Rando rope. I am only planning on using the rope for climbing mts such as Hood. What would be your opinion on using that rope for a Rainier climb?? Keep on climbing, thanks again

[dbconlin]

beal joker 9.1 x 60 or mammut revelation 9.2 x 60

[fenderfour]

beal joker is on sale on the Black Diamond clearance page

[Toast]

I bought the Beal Rando rope. I am only planning on using the rope for climbing mts such as Hood. What would be your opinion on using that rope for a Rainier climb?? Keep on climbing, thanks again

 

Keep in mind the Rando is a short rope. It isn't going to leave you much to build a z-pulley haul system with if you or your partner fall into a crevasse. That should definitely be a consideration if you climb Rainier.

[Crevasse]

One of each. You can never have enough gear.

[Alpinfox]

I bought the Beal Rando rope. I am only planning on using the rope for climbing mts such as Hood. What would be your opinion on using that rope for a Rainier climb?? Keep on climbing, thanks again

 

Keep in mind the Rando is a short rope. It isn't going to leave you much to build a z-pulley haul system with if you or your partner fall into a crevasse. That should definitely be a consideration if you climb Rainier.

 

Hey IV, since you are posting here today and likely to see this, I thought I'd echo what Toast said above. I think a 50m or 60m rope is a better choice for crevassed terrain than a 30m "glacier" rope. If you have three people tied into your rope, 15m apart, you don't have any leftover to be able to drop a loop to someone in a crevasse or build a z-pulley to haul them out. That means you are relying on them climbing out on their own or relying on another team for help. The later will probably work on well-travelled routes like SS hood or DC/Emmons on Rainier, but its not an ideal way to travel in the mountains. Your team should be prepared to self rescue, and that's pretty difficult with a 30m rope.

 

My $0.02

[ryland_moore]

I only use my beal rando if just two people on a rope team (perfect) or if three people then we use two beal Randos. Two Beal Randos is still cheaper than one 9.2 50 or 60 meter dry rope.