ivan Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 last tuesday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 Very cool, looks like they're getting more precip up there. It was damn bony up there in March. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pup_on_the_mountain Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 Just a quick update on the conditions: the runnels were not in as on Sunday. A strong team couldn't make it up, and we decided to take the bypass rather than wait to be the third in line to try the runnels. Ultimately, all four teams took the bypass. There was a small patch of ice at the entrance of the route, and a smear here and there on the bypass, and again on the exit pitch out of the second couloir. We could not place any screws though. One of the teams dislodged a huge block that was loose just before where the rap anchor to drop down to the second couloir is. This block was a disaster waiting to happen, and luckily, no damage was done. It would've been more fun had the runnels been in, but the route is in good shape otherwise. PS: I'm trying to get pics from the others - may be a TR will follow then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted April 10, 2007 Share Posted April 10, 2007 (edited) when we were there last week, we built the rap anchor after the ramp in your pic above (pin,nut,sling, red webbing). Aaron and justin took the lower ramp and found an anchor already in place. Perhaps the lower ramp is the more heavily travelled option, thus explaining the death blocks. Last week everything was frozen solid, so loose blocks werent much of an issue. Edited April 10, 2007 by TrogdortheBurninator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineMonkey Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 (edited) Suckbm and I tried to do the runnels and I took a 20 foot fall out of them. Fell about 8 feet vertical and then found myself upside down on my back. I slid upsidedown, down the ice for the remainder of the ride. Had one picket blow, and another that I placed in sugar snow hold. We came back down and then did the variation. Good to meet up with all of you and it was fun climbing together. I don't have too many picks but pm me your email and I'll get all of you pics. Plus I would like some too. -Craig Edited April 11, 2007 by AlpineMonkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineMonkey Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 (edited) Suckbm in first Couloir. Suckbm belaying just before I fell. Kurt Hicks, Suckbm, and LittleGorilla, and I think the 4th is Pup On the Mountain Entering the white out. On descent it was a complete white out, couldnt tell the ground from air at times. Edited April 11, 2007 by AlpineMonkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad_A Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 Get a haircut, hippie! Just kidding. Glad you guys got out; I've been keeping my eye on the temps up there, and I'm surprised that there isn't more ice. Glad you guys made it work, looks like it was fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 Get a haircut, hippie! I already took about 4" off. pup on the mountain starting up the first couloir The Hilary step crux. Craig in the background, Bala climbing. The second couloir conga line It was a great time climbing with all of you guys. I hope your beds were more restful than our post-climb bivy in the rest area by Quincy! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 Suckbm and I tried to do the runnels and I took a 20 foot fall out of them. Fell about 8 feet vertical and then found myself upside down on my back. I slid upsidedown, down the ice for the remainder of the ride. Had one picket blow, and another that I placed in sugar snow hold. We came back down and then did the variation. Good to meet up with all of you and it was fun climbing together. I don't have too many picks but pm me your email and I'll get all of you pics. Plus I would like some too. -Craig Upside down on your back. I wonder who you learned that technique from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottgg Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 Hows Colchuck Lake looking? Can you still walk across it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 the lake was nice and frozen last week - drank the better part of a bottle of whiskey while strolling across it - almost made the rest of the walk not hurt...almost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 lots of pools of water on the east side, but pretty ok on the right (west) third of it or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pup_on_the_mountain Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 It was fun to meet and climb with you guys as well! I've a few more pics up here. Didn't get (m)any cool ones thanks to the overcast conditions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kat_Roslyn Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 Man, I was all excited to throw a M-80 in that lake last winter, we got the camera ready, lit it, then poof! Nothing! Frikkin suckbm's friends were living with me and dropped it in a glass of beer! Looks like you guys had fun. -the kat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 right next door to tc, pat and i tried dragontail madness last week - fun route, and if you like dry-tooling (having honed yer skillz on the non-existent ice of tc) try moving one coulior over here's the crux (big ass crack left of center - looks like it'll take a #6 though the beckey guide said 'chocks to 2 inches') and pat on the snowfield traversing over to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 So how far up did you guys get? Didnt look like much ice was on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 i think it's basically a winter/spring rock route - the original ascent was in april and was mostly on rock - would love to hear from anyone else who's done it as i've never seen a tr on it - we bivied in a cool snow cave formed by a huge flake and guarded by a big tree, just above the lower snow/ice field - climbing a pithc above that the next day to a point a pithc or so below the crux (which is that wide crack/chimney looking thing well left of the ice drip) - my partner didn't have any experience with dry-tooling and wasn't jazzed about the prospect of having to bail higher up if need be, so that was that - just getting back into the hidden coulior and downclimbing the ice there was entertaining though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted April 17, 2007 Share Posted April 17, 2007 (edited) The Dragontail Madness Route The route. Green below bivvy, red above. Purple is a mistake in the Beckey guide photo. Signage Why do I always get a snot clearing photo? Eric traverses to the bivvy: the big tree/snow patch up and right. Ahh. All warm and comfy. You? Eric? Hello? Just beneath the bail point Fucking ice tool! On rappel…sort of. Edited April 17, 2007 by tvashtarkatena 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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