Dru Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 starts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 I'd love to watch you send it without a rope. Â Hah, no thanks, but I bet if it had a topout it would not be considered near the sketchist of high-balls... Â but yeah I certainly will not be doing that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 the start to heresy is not the crux, and yeah, it's a steep short sport route that feels like a boulder problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 Index: Thin Fingers, Slow Children, Zoom  Wedding Day at Smith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 so how about the 2nd pitch of godzilla, that seems like a bouldery start, meaning the first moves are significantly harder than the rest of the climb. however, this route is still rated by the difficulty of these moves, right? Could this maybe be because its a second pitch of something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 Slow Children Crossing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 i and many of my peers will use the word bouldery for any route which has crux sigificant harder then the rest of the route it doesn't have to be at the start. ie, full sag, thin fingers, angel, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 Speaking of Index, can anyone say Numbah Ten? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kix Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 as opposed to me and my peers who use the word weaksuace for taller problems with stand up starts or routey static moves significantly weaker than the rest of the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted December 13, 2005 Author Share Posted December 13, 2005 Whoever removed the pointy stump at the bottom to the start of Celestial Groove significantly reduced the committment factor of those first moves. Granted, you can get a decent cam in so no worries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 as opposed to me and my peers who use the word weaksuace for taller problems with stand up starts or routey static moves significantly weaker than the rest of the problem. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 I think the interesting comparison is Thin Fingers vs Sloe Children. Â For Thin Fingers, the move is way harder than the rest of the climb, and because it's just a few feet above a flat ledge, the likelihood of injury is low. Â For Sloe Children, the move is not hard -- just balancy -- and is definitely easier than the several possible cruxes above. Seems to me like the risk of injury could be a little greater, as you're off to the side and your belayer is in the way too. Â But in either case, the starts are uncharacteristic of the rest of the routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_warfield Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 How about Angel at Castle Rock? A 5.7 route with a 5.10- bouldery start that gets slicker with each passing year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted December 13, 2005 Author Share Posted December 13, 2005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 How 'bout J-Tree, where the climbs tend to be rated by the majority of the climbing, not individual moves. EB GB's has, what felt like to me, a 5.12 start at least, but is only rated 5.11b or sumthin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek_the_Greek Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 I think it's .10d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted December 13, 2005 Author Share Posted December 13, 2005 How 'bout J-Tree, where the climb were rated by the majority of the climbing, not individual moves. EB GB's has, what felt like to me, a 5.12 start at least, but is only rated 5.11b or sumthin. I've not heard it expressed like that, just that they are rated hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 Some of them are like that, others are just rated hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 BK start is some stout 5.9. Probably more like 10+ IMO. But considering the whole route is like 10B, it isn't that much stiffer than the route grade, just the pitch grade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek_the_Greek Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 Jabberwocky at Squish - 5.10 start to a 5.9 crack Halcyon days (I think) at Squish - only "10d" I've ever on-sight soloed (only thing over 5.6 I've every on-sight soloed, actually). The start looked like a fun boulder problem, and once above it, it looked easier to climb the 5.8 crack above than to jump off... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 When I think "bouldery" or "boulder problem" I think steep, tweaky and tricky moves. And also, a sequence that is way easier once you get the trick figured out. And can you really call a crack bouldery? Â As far as hard starts go, how about "Beak Beak Beak". Now there's a classic! Everyone I take up there loves that damn thing. Â As far as "Thin Fingers ... the likelihood of injury is low", the way I heard it, that's where Paul Boving died (pitched off that move and hit his head). Â And agreed, that Slow Children start is freaky, what with being right above the belay slings and what not (catch your heel and flip over, or seriously wrack your nuts on the chains, or smash your belayer, or ALL OF THE ABOVE!). Â And the Zoom start, how the hell do you do that!? (without yarding on those convenient bolts ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 Chuck, I had heard that Boving died on Thin Fingers but never heard the details. Â For me, the bouldery move is maybe three feet off the ground, highstepping and then standing on it. I can't do it, so I do the weenie right-side variation. Â I suppose that without a hardhat, an unlucky fall, and maybe some weird stuff with the rope, a head could get fatally levered into the rock. Creepy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 Anyone out there climb 'Zero Tolerance' at the Cirque on Mt. Erie? .10b sport climb that feels like the essence of bouldery to me.. sequency, steep, tricky big moves. Billygoat and I turned it into a project last May. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 the ultimate is that xenophobe climb over on the mudpile at smith. It's called 10c but it's basically a bolted V1 into a 5.6 slab. Awesome. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sexual_chocolate Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 I always imagined you with thinner ankles. Â Huh, funny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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