Easy routes in the NW

[Latch_Holeflaffer]

I have been teaching my daughter to climb and she is ready and has asked to do some longer traditional climbs. Having moved to the NW long after my 5.7 days, I'm not that familiar with routes in the 5.4 - 5.7 range. The only route I have done that fits the bill is Diedre in Squamish. I’m looking for routes under 5.8 in difficulty, multi pitch, clean rock, and FUN! Any area within say eight or nine hours is OK. Leavenworth(Orbit is too hard for her first long route), City of Rocks, Squamish. Yosemite is too far to drive for four days. Any suggestions? What are your favorites? Thanks for your help.

Latch

[Backcountry]

Check out some of the routes on Icicle Buttress...several can be put together that are mid 5's around 4 to 5P.

[Alex]

R&D route on Icicle Buttress in Leavenworth?

Alex

[Backcountry]

Seems great minds think alike

[This message has been edited by Backcountry (edited 05-09-2001).]

[fredrogers]

Ditto R&D. Cocaine connection makes a nice 5.7 slab variation to the blocky 1st pitch of R&D. Crowded.

Try also Midway (5.6 and airy) or Sabre (Beckey 5.4) on Castle Rock.

Check the leavenworth book for a 2 pitch called the Tree Route (5.5 I think?)- top pitch is mostly 4th class, but has a fun alpine feeling to it and is off the beaten patch. Don't go through the chimney on the first pitch. Unpleasant and mostly un-rotectable.

[forrest_m]

how about the west ridge of north twin sister? 5.5 on super solid rock, neat summit, 1 hour drive from seattle, relatively short approach. as alpine climbing goes, pretty mellow but gets you to a very alpine-feeling summit with great views of baker, n. cascades, etc.

also, of course, the classics in the washington pass area: beckey route on liberty bell (5.7), s. arete on s. early winters spire (5.5). South face of the tooth near snoq. pass is also an easy day from the car.

all of these are "alpine" climbs, but just barely... certainly no more committing than snow creek wall.

[Cpt.Caveman]

I hate repeating but I give a vote to Midway and Saber. Just dont drop anything on me!

[erik]

was up on the n twin on sunday. road is closed at the river. bring mtn bikes. you will have to descend the route as right now the n slope is LOADED! the route is about 50% snow 50% rock. an nice mix from the usually. quite enjoyable. a perfect girlfriend route (or daughter)!

[ScottP]

The west buttress of Blueberry Hill in Darrington is multipitch, has one move of 5.8 (the rest being 4th to 5.7), fantastic views, and an approach that is almost entirely 3rd class granite slabs.

[Dru]

Banana Peel on the Apron, Squamish

Beckey Route on Liberty Bell

Brogan Spire stuff at Smith.

(I didn't think the W. ridge of N. twin sister was as hard as 5.5 - more like class 3-4??)

[Gerg]

Don't forget: The Tooth 3pitch 5.4, Ingalls Peak 3 pitch 5.4 or 5 pitch 5.7, or Martian diagonal 2 pitch 5.5 and Martian Direct 2 pitch 5.8 at Peshastin Pinnacles

I'm a big fan of ingalls peak but don't know approach conditions. Heard that it is still under a lot of snow.

gev

[dbb]

Don't forget the classic Red Wall routes at Smith:

Super Slab - 5.6 two pitches and change

Moscow - 3 pitches, some .6, option for .7, and 4th.

you can easily hook these together in a day if you're not stuck beind the rest of the world

[Dru]

Also at Squamish you can link up the first two pitches of the Smoke Bluff Connection with the recently-recleaned Sparky's Crack for a 2-3 pitch (depending if you link the first two or not)5.8

And there is always the reliable Merci Me!

If you have a big 4x4 you should also check out the west buttress of the south peak of the Old Settler - about 10 -12 pitches of low 5th class in a great alpine setting. For beta see www.bivouac.com or the upcoming Alpine Select guide from Elaho Publishing (plug). Lots more good alpine moderates in SW BC in that.

[viktor]

not really multi-pitch but lots of 5.6 & 5.7 bolted routes at Skaha might fit the bill. Great place for family-type relaxin' beaches, etc. & canadian dollar perks. Isn't there like a climbing festival there soon or something?

[Dru]

Skaha, god forbid. Six hundred versions of exactly the same route. (...and then there's PhS ) yes there is a climbers festival on the Victoria Day long weekend. expect it to be long on socializing and short on climbing.

[viktor]

what wuz I thinking? Maybe Givlers crack would be the ticket here.

[Andrew_Grove]

I took my daughter up Diedre when she was fourteen. She loved it. Completely turned her attitude about climbing around. If the two of you haven't done Diedre (I couldn't tell from the post), do it -- nothing else comes close. If you have, train a little bit and do Snake, it's not really much more difficult.

[Latch_Holeflaffer]

Thanks. All of your sugestions are good ones. The beginers list is being made.

[Dru]

OOOH, good suggestion Viktor. Givler's Crack instead of Skaha. Isn't that like suggesting standing in line to buy a video instead of standing in line to see a movie?

[i'm not dissing you V. - much ]