Latch_Holeflaffer

I have always mounted "regular" skis pins on chord center and they have worked just fine. I now have the delema of mounting up a pair of HH on a fat twin tip ski. Chord center is about four inches from the spot where the pins are if you use the boot center mark on the ski. If any of you have mounted tele on to a fat twin tip where did you mount them? Indeed the Hammer Heads look sweet, got'em in the mail last week and can't wait to try them.

Also searching for new boots. I have wide feet and the best shop fit so far has been the Sportiva Lhotse. My only concern is the toe flex. Nice for hiking, but can you put a rigid crampon on it for vertical ice? The Scarpa Cerro Torre also seems good. The shop was out of my size so I had to try and judge on a size that was a hair too big. Which of these boots would you choose for general technical alpinism and why? Boots that would cover the spectrum. I am looking for wide leathers that do everything. I won't do any long hikes in them( I'll carry'em and wear sneaks) and I won't do too much waterfall ice in them, but I do like it steep. suggestions? More ideas? Thanks.

Well, I know I'm asking for it from dog lovers and haters, but here goes. I was thinking of heading out to Vantage. I have never been there and I have a lab puppy that I can't leave at home next weekend. So, are dogs legal there? Leashed and under control of course. What's the beta for dogs at Vantage? Thanks.

I agree with Pope that EBGBs is a good climb; however, I can barely remember the first moves but certainly remember the top. Like many JT routes the unique texture of the rock takes getting dialed into and the top, while not a death runout by any means, is a bit nervey. It is fairly steep friction climbing. The start is more of a bouldering traverse. As I recall the start was the crux, but drilling those bolts on the ball bearing of the upper slab was real fun.

I have the same issue. I was told that the Garmont Fusion Mountain Guide is wide.

Don't turn around and run, if you trip you will end up in a head down position. Two techniques I have seen and used are the running backwards, sort of like reverse sliding downclimbing. Sometimes you can come to a stop this way. It definatly really slows you down. The other way is to slide down on all fours. I once saw a guy falling down the apron (Glacier Point) with no pro on the first pitch from about 100 ft. He was sliding on all fours, we yelled at him to lower his heels, next thing you know he came to a halt about 30 ft. from the deck. He just started back up.

Great post Matt. In Rodgers post he states "In The long runouts at Tuolumne are legendary; bolts place on lead. After climbig there for a while the long runouts that gripped at first become much more reasonable, at least in the mind. There is a learning curve and a numbing curve." Very true, but that does not mitagate the danger that some of those beautiful routes entail. Take Grey Ghost as an example, full pitch runouts on 5.8 with no climbing harder than 5.8. and many knobs to stand and drill on. The way old school first ascent team did not want to stop and drill for whatever reason. They should allow at least one bolt to be placed so that more climbers do not die on this route. A route is like a trail and the more it is traveled the easier it gets. Some well used trails need a little maintance. And some heavily used area's need more trails that are safe for the masses. Variety the spice of life.

I just feel like throwing my two cents in. I am what most of you would call old school. I have never liked drilling it's hard work and not much fun. So, I only have about twenty first ascents where I have had to drill. In some ways leading a new route with a bolt kit hung on your rack is less scary than heading up on a known route that has big runouts. Most routes that I have been part of space the bolts out because of time contraints ,lazyness, a lack of bolts in the kit or it just kind of happened because you feel your way up. It's easyer to run it out than to stand for an hour on a micro and drill. Most of the time after I did a pitch with sparse to no protection I felt a mixture of pride and regret. Cool I was bold enough to do something dangerous but now I have created something that hardly anyone will want to do and is potentially dangerous. I Like sport routes. I wish a bunch of the routes I have put up had more bolts on them. Yes, bolts are ugly, so is blood. I'm willing to bet not many of you have taken a hundred footer on a quarter incher because of a nub breaking out under your foot. When a person creates a route and puts a huge runnout into it, it's either because of ego(I'm bolder than you are), they were out of control(I can't down climb and their are no stances), the climbing is trivial for them or they are short on bolts. I don't know of anyone I have ever climbed with who went up on a blank slab and not put in a bolt because of environmental concerns.

If you live in the Portland area, Climb Max does this at a reasonable rate.

How about some original Dolt nuts to put on tied slings and I also still use on walk ups the Chouniard bamboo Piolet that was given to me in 73'. I love that axe, I'd cry if i broke it. I have a few other relects that I don't use anymore. Like a hand forged bugaboo that Chouniard made in the early sixties and a ring angle that Ed Cooper used in the Bugaboos. I aso keep the friends I bought off Jardine in the parking lot for $20 a crack in 75'

I can really relate to your sentiments Terminal. I also pushed my limits in the California scene in the 70’s. Numbers were important. Style was very important. I heard several big dogs of the time berate others for perceived style infractions. Many of these people on both sides of the style wars openly admitted to wanting to be famous. Some climbed for numbers some for style(boldness). A lot of the time these big egos were big jerks. Since climbing was their whole world their rank in that world became very important. They had stopped climbing for fun and climbed for status. For a few rare individuals that status came easy and they continued to have fun and their self worth was not directly tied to their climbing performance. For others it’s all they had. I got caught up in that for a little while too. Climbing wasn’t fun. With maturity and introspection my attitude changed and I looked at climbing as a hobby or recreation and I started having fun again. My ability to do harder and harder climbs really slowed down. The quest for classic fun routes no matter the grade became important. Eventually other sports came into favor and I stopped climbing entirely, but I was having fun. Last year my daughter got me into climbing again. I am having more fun climbing now than I ever have. When I climb with my daughter we don’t care about the grade we just climb and life is beautiful.

I used to have a sticker on my hemet that said "Cosmic Wimpout" I loved that sticker.

I don't know how many of you have had your life saved by a helmet. But, about twenty years ago I took a direct hit by a softball from space on Mt. Kitchner while unroped. It shattered my helmet and really rung my bell, but it obviously did it's job. I never used to wear a helmet while rock climbing, but all that has changed. Can't see any reason not too anymore. I wear one almost all the time. Top roping and straight up sport climbs are the exception. I use one of those Kong Scarab helmets. Very light, very comfortable and I don't mind wearing it. Having been in some bad ass situations and never seen or heard of anybody being hit twice, I feel a one shot helmet is worth the risk. Big heavy helmets are uncomfortable and I know I wouldn't wear it.

Great thread. I have been thinking about this very topic for months. I have been climbing for almost thirty years. When I was a youngster I gave no thought to my own safety as it related to others. Free soloing, R and a few X runouts were part of my regular climbing diet. I always climbed carefully, I did not want to die but, the risk was worth the reward. When I got married twenty years ago, not much changed, I was perhaps a bit more cautious , but I figured my wife was a big girl and could take care of herself. When my daughter was born thirteen years ago things changed in a big way. I no longer free soloed. OK, maybe once, the west ridge of Pigeon Spire is such a lovely route. I really started to think about the consequences of my actions. I tried not to run it out. I turned down offers to go to the Himalaya . It’s not so much that my climbing changed that much, just my mind set. About five years ago I quit climbing. Surfing, Skiing and Cycling seemed safer and maybe I was a bit burned out on climbing. Last November my daughter asked if she could try climbing. I was conflicted. I started when I was thirteen. Why couldn’t she. Is it safe? Am I leading her into danger? I decided that If you go into climbing with a knowledge of the risks and try to mitigate those risks as much as possible. That the reward is worth it. I have sense rediscovered one of the great joys of my life, but better. We rock climb together every week, I am helping her climb through the grades as I regain some lost skills and strength. The synergy between us is indescribable. I know that climbing is a dangerous activity and that we are putting ourselves at risk. I now wear a helmet, most of the time. I never skip a bolt even if it’s silly. I put in pro every fifteen to twenty feet weather I need it or not. My gear is all new. Climbing can bring great rewards to an individual and to a relationship. I can’t imagine a life without climbing. An individual has to make their own decision as to the balance between reward and risk. If you stifle a need within yourself something within you will wither and die. Make you own decisions. I choose to climb.

No Picnic on Mount Kenya by Felice Benuzzi- Bored Italian prisoner of war makes his own gear and escapes from WWII POW camp. They all have an exciting adventure and sneak back into camp.

All of those suggestions are good climbs. Also try The Hobbit Book 5.6 adventure On the Lamb 5.9 - Only if your second climbs 5.9 also. Go sideways young man. Lunar Leep 5.9- but only a move or two, the first pitch is run out but easy. How often do you get to take a running jump on a climb with no consequenses. Great ledge. The Yawn 5.9+ Classic crack climb. The chimney is kind of scary but well protected. The dihedral above is one of the best 5.5 cracks in the known universe. I personaly don't think the ratings there are any harder than here. Most of the climbs are runnout by modern standards. They were put up by climbers who didn't want to spend the time or money drilling by hand on 5.8. Most of the time when the climbing gets hard you'll find protection. Enjoy!

Thanks. All of your sugestions are good ones. The beginers list is being made.

I have been teaching my daughter to climb and she is ready and has asked to do some longer traditional climbs. Having moved to the NW long after my 5.7 days, I'm not that familiar with routes in the 5.4 - 5.7 range. The only route I have done that fits the bill is Diedre in Squamish. I’m looking for routes under 5.8 in difficulty, multi pitch, clean rock, and FUN! Any area within say eight or nine hours is OK. Leavenworth(Orbit is too hard for her first long route), City of Rocks, Squamish. Yosemite is too far to drive for four days. Any suggestions? What are your favorites? Thanks for your help. Latch

Well I can't help myself. In 1977 I was attempting the second ascent of a route called a Wrinkle in Time in Toulumne Meadows. I made it through the crux lower half just fine then clipped the last bolt. I was assured this was a long bolt and a well placed one. Then I headed up and left through a series of little ramps, finally ending at a short traverse left into the carck which very quickly turns over into the belay shared with Cibola. I got to the crack and was resting the bottom of my hand on a BIG crystal jutting out of the edge of the crack. Just then the crystal broke off, I lost my right hand, my left hand wasn't on at the moment, I desperatly danced on some edges. But, to no avail, I was airborne. I'm not sure how long the fall was. Big enough to see a huge loop of slack in the rope as I fell. Estimates by witnesses range from eighty to a hundred feet all through the air. I didn't hit the end of the rope that hard as I has about twenty five feet out to the left of the bolt, but boy a swung like a sack of potatoes across the very knobby wall when I hit bottom. I tried to protect my head. The ony injury I sustained was, I peeled the skin off my nose all the way back to my cheek. I dont know why I wasn't injured more. The Gods were with me that day. As I hung in my swammi belt, that's right swami belt, I was bleeding like mad on my only clean shirt. So I hung upside down so as not to get blood on the shirt while my partners tied another rope on so that they could lower me to the ledge. I got plenty altered that night too be sure and my buddies presented me with a set of wings that night. I got right back on the stone the next day. A nice well protected route to be sure.

I am also considering going to half ropes, 8.6 mm Roca Fanatics, and I am concerened about a hard fall one one strand. Let's say you were looking at a good size runout and all you had to clip was one piece of gear. Now I know you don't want to clip them both into the same biner. Is their any reason you wouldn't want to clip a quick draw to one rope and a runner to the other off the same good piece? You use both ropes to catch the fall, but the catch would be softer because the second line would not come into play at the same time. What do you think?

Well it's time for this old climber to get a couple of new tools. I've done the search thing and gone down and fondled the offerings at he local shops, but their is nothing like putting steel to ice. I will be using the tools mostly for steep alpine routes, Cascades, Rockies, Tetons and Summer play in the local ice fall. I would like to do more waterfalls ,but it has been seven years since the Gorge iced up and I don't do much travel for waterfalls anymore. So, I like the feel of the BD Rage ,but I am concerened that it is too specialized. The Shrike is light and looks like it would work better in an alpine setting and it feels pretty good as well. What are your thoughts? Thanks.

About 25 years ago I had a Joe Brown Super helmet save my life. I took a direct hit by a softball from space. Joe Brown replaced it and I have used it infrequently since. I am a hemet believer who almost never wore a helmet while rock climbing. Helmets that are heavy, uncomfortable or obstruct your view won't get worn as much because they reduce your performance. Through the years I have tried on most of the helmets that have come out and climbed in a few of them. None of them seemed like a major improvement over the Joe Brown Super until the new Kong Scarab. It is super light, and really comfortable. I did a sport route in it yesterday just to see if it would anoy me. I forgot it was on. In my opinion this is one hell of a good helmet. Being foam it might only take one significant blow, having been through this situation, one significant blow is all it needs to take.

I am looking at a new pair of boots this season. I have wide feet (EE) and often have fitting difficulties with various models.I am looking for a pair of boots for technical ice and rock, but not so specialized that they are super uncomfortable to run up a volcano if I want to. I have tried on the Salomon Super Mountain and thought they were a little narrow. What suggestions do you have? How about the Scarpa Freney? Thanks, Latch