Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 Witness the latest Hot Flashes in Climbing: http://www.climbing.com/news/ In less than two weeks, a fuggin' tsunami of benchmark radness...chix OS-ing 13+ and sending .14a, minors sending .14+, Caldwells tearing the Valley a new one, Action Directe action...best to look before you eat lunch, so's you don't toss your cookies! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feces Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 Pretty amazing stuff going down this fall. The increasing repeats of Action Directe says a lot about the jump in overall skill levels among the top climbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 teah, back to training at age of 41 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macson Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 Ok, probably not the best thread to ask this, but on that page in the artical about Layton & Eric's climb they say: "The route is called The Devil’s Club and graded V+ 5.9+ A2-. As in the Canadian Rockies, the free rating should be taken with a grain of salt." What the hell does that mean? Do they mean it's really harder than 5.9+, or really easier? Is there some sort of sandbag bias in pacific northwest ratings? I'm confused. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 harder, scarier: a la Canadian Rockies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 See Dougherty's guide to the Canadian Rockies and sample a few of the 5.9 A2 routes in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 harder, scarier: a la Canadian Rockies. Just curious... which classic 5.9/A2 routes have you or Layton done? The strain? East Face on Assiniboine (Cheesmond/Dick)? Sphinx Face on Temple? NW Ridge of Alberta? Wild Thing on Chephren? etc etc? My impression was most of these were either unrepeated or had seen only a handful of repeats so the list of people who could make legitimate comparisons was short... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ireneo_Funes Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 I did a 5.9/A0 route at the gym once... is it like that, or even scarier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 Common knowledge, ya dork. I don't have to justify shit to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 Common knowledge, ya dork. Kinda like everyone knows exactly what it takes and how it feels to climb 5.14? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 **you are ignoring this user** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 No erik, you are correct, you don't have to justify shit to anyone but you chose to be in the "limelight" by blah blah blah'n everywhere so these sort of questions shouldn't surprise you and honestly it was a legit question... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 (edited) **you are ignoring this user** Edited October 19, 2005 by NOLSe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 (edited) Edited October 19, 2005 by NOLSe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 That is a really funny pic! Can that cat really not hear you, or can he only hear half of what you're saying? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 (edited) Someone is questioning the rating of my uber ultra sickness climb!!! I'll just ignore them! Edited October 19, 2005 by NOLSe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 it's actually 5.2 with one hang. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 (edited) Edited October 19, 2005 by NOLSe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted October 19, 2005 Share Posted October 19, 2005 No erik, you are correct, you don't have to justify shit to anyone but you chose to be in the "limelight" by blah blah blah'n everywhere so these sort of questions shouldn't surprise you and honestly it was a legit question... I was simply answering another legit question based on common knowledge. Comparing complex, dangerous alpine route ratings to some 5.14 spandex clip-up is stupid, IMHO. Fortunately I don't have to read Nolse's whine and drivel anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted October 20, 2005 Share Posted October 20, 2005 We gave it that grade to MAKE SURE people would bitch about it, and it worked. ha ha ha ha ha! no i've never done a canadian rockies 5.9 A2, but our route was 5.9 PLUS A2 MINUS I just wrote a TR b/c i love to write about climbing. I didn't expect it to get 10 billion views and be in the paper. The real grade will be in the new beckey guide. slaphappy had a very good point, but i think erik is on "defense" and forgot the reason we gave it such a stupid rating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted October 20, 2005 Share Posted October 20, 2005 Yah, I'm tired of the shit. My skin has gotten thin on this. Poor me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony_Bentley Posted October 20, 2005 Share Posted October 20, 2005 If it makes you feel better, I've hardly climbed in aid mode but I could tell you what A3 felt like. Gneiss isn't granite, thats for sure. Why don't all of you hardmen go out into the North Cascades an put up an aid route with moderate free climbing. Better yet, where are all of the 5.11 gneiss routes? The Central rib on Triumph is 5.10, right? Okay, everyone get out there and climb a first ascent that is 5.11 gneiss okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 20, 2005 Share Posted October 20, 2005 there's 5.13 gneiss routes....at skaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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