telemarker Posted October 7, 2005 Posted October 7, 2005 What's your aid rack look like? 1) What piece(s) do you find yourself always using? 2) What piece(s) are least useful? Quote
fenderfour Posted October 7, 2005 Posted October 7, 2005 The rack changes depending on the climb. Bestest pieces ever - Larger Metolius astro nuts. I can hro them at a crack and they stick. Leeper cam hooks are the shit once you learn to trust them. I cary a set of the regular and a set of the wides. From there small cams in the fingertip sizes. Quote
tomtom Posted October 7, 2005 Posted October 7, 2005 (I climb C1-C3, this is my second year.) Normal clean rack: Cams: DMM 3/4 through 4 Hybrid Aliens: 2 sets WC Zero: #3 Camp Ballnutz: 1-5 Nuts: DMM 1-11 Brass Nuts: Trango Brassies 1-8 Micro Nuts: HB Offsets 0-6 Tricams: 1/2-2 Cam Hooks: Normal and wide (2 ea) Hooks: BD Talon, BD Cliffhanger, Pika (1 1/2 - 3 inches) Pieces I use the least: Larger Ballnutz (but I have partners who loves them) #3 Zero Cam (placed once) #0 HB (never placed, this thing is tiny) Things that sit in the haul bag: Nuts: BD Microstoppers, DMM Peanuts Hexes: WC 3-8 Cam Hooks: Fragile Flake, Micro BD Cliffhanger (redundant with smallest Pika) Pieces I use seldom but glad to carry: Large Pika hooks - turn a spooky move into a solid placement. I have a bunch of pitons, peckers, copperheads, and a bolt kit but haven't needed them. Quote
olyclimber Posted October 7, 2005 Posted October 7, 2005 (edited) Its really just a bunch of junk I got on sale. If I could do it over (and had the money to do so), I'd buy a set of the C4s, maybe double up on some. But like a lot of people, I'd keep the red and yellow aliens out of my current rack. but what you want in your rack depends on what you're climbing etc blah blah blah. racks are only aid if you french free. **nevermind...just read the title...aid rack ** Edited October 7, 2005 by olyclimber Quote
Ireneo_Funes Posted October 7, 2005 Posted October 7, 2005 So does anyone use the Leeper micro cam hook? I just picked one up for kicks, but now looking at it...it's so small! Quote
telemarker Posted October 7, 2005 Author Posted October 7, 2005 (I climb C1-C3, this is my second year.) Normal clean rack: Cams: DMM 3/4 through 4 Hybrid Aliens: 2 sets WC Zero: #3 Camp Ballnutz: 1-5 Nuts: DMM 1-11 Brass Nuts: Trango Brassies 1-8 Micro Nuts: HB Offsets 0-6 Tricams: 1/2-2 Cam Hooks: Normal and wide (2 ea) Hooks: BD Talon, BD Cliffhanger, Pika (1 1/2 - 3 inches) Pieces I use the least: Larger Ballnutz (but I have partners who loves them) #3 Zero Cam (placed once) #0 HB (never placed, this thing is tiny) Things that sit in the haul bag: Nuts: BD Microstoppers, DMM Peanuts Hexes: WC 3-8 Cam Hooks: Fragile Flake, Micro BD Cliffhanger (redundant with smallest Pika) Pieces I use seldom but glad to carry: Large Pika hooks - turn a spooky move into a solid placement. I have a bunch of pitons, peckers, copperheads, and a bolt kit but haven't needed them. Aren't those hybrids very difficult to come by? Quote
tomtom Posted October 7, 2005 Posted October 7, 2005 Aren't those hybrids very difficult to come by? Yup. I bought one set off ebay, and the other 2 at a time at Marmot in Bellevue. Not cheap, either. For flaring cracks and pin scars, there's nothing better. Quote
bigwalling Posted October 7, 2005 Posted October 7, 2005 IF you get serious it will look something like this in a few years. PINS: 25 blades 30 arrows 20+ beaks Tons of angles-all sizes and mods Cams: Lots like 2.5 set hybrids and 2 sets regular plus tcus Lots of cams to #6 friend more nuts that you know what to do with Other: Screamers Tons of biners- they get trashed on walls, plan on losing 5-15 a season. A swager, cause I would have spent like 1000 dollars on heads by now. Hooks-lots of all sizes and mods Ballnuts for expando Liquor and a gun. Quote
texplorer Posted October 9, 2005 Posted October 9, 2005 Don't forget duct-tape, Old E, and RURPs Quote
ScottP Posted October 9, 2005 Posted October 9, 2005 The rack changes depending on the climb. Yep. I have noticed that what matters most on an aid route is the comfort and diversion factor. Considering that it's largely a mental game when it comes to stepping up onto shit to gain another 3-5 feet, being miserably cold or dehydrated or cramped or just bored silly can have a detrimental effect on your desire to start clipping into those next placements. The most comprehensive (or dialed) rack in the world will be less effective if your head is wishing for somewhere other than the route you're currently hanging from... Make sure you are content in those aid slings and your chances of finishing the route go up considerably. Quote
bigwalling Posted October 9, 2005 Posted October 9, 2005 Here is example racks for 3 climbs on El Cap I've done. These 3 climbs represent Easy, Moderate, and Hard. These racks will allow you to clip a lot of gear, by the time you hit Moderate you want to clip a lot of stuff cause you could fall really far. Also, when I climbed Uncle Bens in Squamish, we brought a really light rack. Forceing us to run it out really far! This is possible on routes that are really fixed and have shorter pitches. Climbing a big wall with a free rack is really nice! Mescalito: 3 arrow beak 4ea cams to 2" 3ea to 3" 2 each to 4" 1 big cam 1 ea nuts hooks a few heads Zenyatta Mondatta 2 beaks 8 arrows 5 blades few angles 3ea cams to 3" 1 ea nuts 15-30 heads(we placed 15-18 when we did it, party after us placed none) Just depends on how much is fixed hooks Plastic Surgery Disaster: 8 beaks 2 rurps 12 blades 12 arrows 2 ea angles to 3/4" 3 ea cams to 3.5" 1 ea nuts 40 heads hooks(all types!) keyhole hangers(RP are the best, keyholes are rad on hard routes) OE800 will make you happier! Quote
telemarker Posted October 9, 2005 Author Posted October 9, 2005 Here is example racks for 3 climbs on El Cap I've done. These 3 climbs represent Easy, Moderate, and Hard. These racks will allow you to clip a lot of gear, by the time you hit Moderate you want to clip a lot of stuff cause you could fall really far. Also, when I climbed Uncle Bens in Squamish, we brought a really light rack. Forceing us to run it out really far! This is possible on routes that are really fixed and have shorter pitches. Climbing a big wall with a free rack is really nice! Mescalito: 3 arrow beak 4ea cams to 2" 3ea to 3" 2 each to 4" 1 big cam 1 ea nuts hooks a few heads Zenyatta Mondatta 2 beaks 8 arrows 5 blades few angles 3ea cams to 3" 1 ea nuts 15-30 heads(we placed 15-18 when we did it, party after us placed none) Just depends on how much is fixed hooks Plastic Surgery Disaster: 8 beaks 2 rurps 12 blades 12 arrows 2 ea angles to 3/4" 3 ea cams to 3.5" 1 ea nuts 40 heads hooks(all types!) keyhole hangers(RP are the best, keyholes are rad on hard routes) OE800 will make you happier! Hey, great information all. Jake, what's a keyhole hangar? Also, can you give me more informationo on swaging devices to make your own heads. Thanks! Quote
bigwalling Posted October 9, 2005 Posted October 9, 2005 Keyhole hanger To make heads you need a nicopress swager tool. They are expensive(bench mount 250)! If you aren't placeing a few 100 heads each year to not bother, you could climb most tons(!) of El Cap routes and never even place more than 100 heads. I sell heads and other stuff cheaper than you will find it anywhere(I'm not joking!). This is good option for almost anyone besides people who do F.A.s Quote
corvallisclimb Posted October 10, 2005 Posted October 10, 2005 my aid rack is 3 rurps 6 beaks 8 kbs 10 las 6 angles doubles of micro nuts doubles of hb offsets doubles of reg nuts set of aliens set of tcus doubles cams up to 3.5 triples of some hooks x 2 cam hooks heads rivet hangers tie offs screamers bolt kit this has gotten me up most everything ive tryed, as well as a few FAs. and when youve got a partner to combine racks with its awsome. its always nice to have alot and its always nice to have a little. see what your style is and what your comfort level is and youll know what to cary. i dont climb anything as hard as jake but for some one who likes to nail and have some adventure, a rack like mine would probably suit. pleanty of routes where put up before all off this modified shit, so go have an adventure and leave some of the newer tech at home. Quote
telemarker Posted October 10, 2005 Author Posted October 10, 2005 my aid rack is 3 rurps 6 beaks 8 kbs 10 las 6 angles doubles of micro nuts doubles of hb offsets doubles of reg nuts set of aliens set of tcus doubles cams up to 3.5 triples of some hooks x 2 cam hooks heads rivet hangers tie offs screamers bolt kit this has gotten me up most everything ive tryed, as well as a few FAs. and when youve got a partner to combine racks with its awsome. its always nice to have alot and its always nice to have a little. see what your style is and what your comfort level is and youll know what to cary. i dont climb anything as hard as jake but for some one who likes to nail and have some adventure, a rack like mine would probably suit. pleanty of routes where put up before all off this modified shit, so go have an adventure and leave some of the newer tech at home. How many screamers will you take on an aid climb in the A2+ to A3 range? Quote
bigwalling Posted October 10, 2005 Posted October 10, 2005 Something like 6 is good to have. But you really don't need them. On stuff like that I just use them cause they are part of my draw rack. It is on dangerous aid that they shine. Quote
lancegranite Posted October 10, 2005 Posted October 10, 2005 Hooks are not just for aid climbing, they have saved my bacon on failed free climbs, route finding errors, alpine climbs, first ascents and the occasional height dependant wierdness. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted October 12, 2005 Posted October 12, 2005 my aid rack is 3 rurps 6 beaks 8 kbs 10 las 6 angles doubles of micro nuts doubles of hb offsets doubles of reg nuts set of aliens set of tcus doubles cams up to 3.5 triples of some hooks x 2 cam hooks heads rivet hangers tie offs screamers bolt kit this has gotten me up most everything ive tryed, as well as a few FAs. and when youve got a partner to combine racks with its awsome. its always nice to have alot and its always nice to have a little. see what your style is and what your comfort level is and youll know what to cary. i dont climb anything as hard as jake but for some one who likes to nail and have some adventure, a rack like mine would probably suit. pleanty of routes where put up before all off this modified shit, so go have an adventure and leave some of the newer tech at home. How many screamers will you take on an aid climb in the A2+ to A3 range? I own 5 so... pleanty of people have climbed with out them, they are just for peice of mind! Quote
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