Standard Rack for Frenchman's Coulee

[tattooed_climber]

I'll be there in 2 weeks, and me and my partner are still curious about what to bring for gear, we'll prob end up bringing most our racks, but i'm trying to peice info together from what i've read.

 

and if someone can confirm that only one 60m rope is required, or are there any that need two for a rap?

 

I've read that most climbers don't bother with nuts at all in coulee?why?is there reason or what?i'm alil confused on this one

 

bewteen me and my partner our rack:

30 QDs (bring 12 i'm guessing)

12 trad Draws (ALL)

doubles of 3CUs 1/4 to 1 1/2 (half or all)

double camalots #.5 to #3 (with 4 of #2) (bringing most)

single of C4 #4 and C4 #5, single camalot #3.5 (bring all)

3 sets of nuts (bring one)

11 tricams (bring a set)

2 sets of hexs (bring half of one, all biggies)

tech nuts/ball nuts (heard they good, no idea)

one #4 big bro (my partner will pro buy himself one)

 

i'm curious if we may need some more big pro.....we'll prob be climbing nothing harder than 10a trad lines ..i'm still recovering from a hand injury and my partner has been stuck in the rockies without a belayer.

 

any beta would be awesome!i'll be there from the 6th to the 10th of oct

 

cheers

Edited September 26, 2005 by tattooed_climber

[max]

I don't know if your joking or what but what you've listed is about 2-3 times as much as I've ever brought to frenchmans. I've climbed there fine with singles of nuts, singles of cams tiny thru big, oh, and a couple of med-big hexes (I never use 'cause they make that noise) and I've never had a problem. I see you've got some long runners... I think you've fine. Just my opinion. And I'm not a ripper climber.

 

I'd guess the "no nuts at Vantage" thing is because the vantage basalt is so "slick" or flat that nuts are pretty easy to dislodge. Maybe too because the cracks tend to be more parallel than granite cracks... I'd still bring them.

 

Probably the biggestthing you need to start worrying about is bringing a shit load of wood or a propane heater. It was pretty cold this morning in Entiat.

[catbirdseat]

I use nuts all the time at Vantage. The cracks don't always take nuts well, but sometimes they are the best option. Slider nuts are quite valuable on some routes where the cracks are very parallel sided, for example Little Book of Lies (Zig Zag Wall). Today I used two in an anchor on a pillar top.

 

Usually a single set of cams will suffice, but there is a huge variety of routes. The majority have cracks that increase in size as you go up, so that a single set works fine. Occasionally you will find routes that have several of the same piece, for example George and Martha which requires doubles in the middle sizes.

 

So bring both of your racks and then put together what is most appropriate for the particular climb. Often, but not always, the guide will tell you if a climb uses a large number of one size, for example Blue Autumn requires several in the six inch range.

 

Regarding tricams, I use them and love them, but I seldom place them at Vantage. Leave them behind. Hexes can be valuable, depending on the route. Most of the time, I leave them on the ground, but some route take hexes better than cams, where the cracks flare inward, for example Steel Grill or Crossing the Threshold.

 

One more thing. I like Aliens. The softer metal seems to really hold well in basalt. I carry Blue through Orange.

Edited September 26, 2005 by catbirdseat

[MCash]

2 each cams to 4" (6" if you want to do OWs)

1 set of nuts

Hexes 7 - 11

[catbirdseat]

[goatboy]

To be at Vantage for 5 straight days would drive me nuts, personally.

 

I suggest checking out other things in the area such as Tieton (not far from Vantage) or Leavenworth as well.

[kurthicks]

or even Peshastin.

[sobo]

or even Banks Lake and Northup Canyon.

[gosolo]

dont take any spray personally about size of rack. You are craggin. it is SMART to take gear. Just throw on what you think you need outa your stuff. bragin about the small rack you take craggin seems to imply a biological defeciency of some sort.

 

BTW, the coulee is not a destination area. It s a desperation area. there is a difference.

[Dru]

A helmet and a lobotomy - Vantage sucks.

[catbirdseat]

Last time I was there I met some Canadians from Vancouver who were there for the first time and they were raving about it. They were like, "wow, you can climb in the warm sun while it's cold and raining at Squamish- Fantastic!".

[Dru]

I'd rather climb in a rain of falling water than a rain of broken holds and trundled crap.

[catbirdseat]

Rock falls in Squamish too, like anywhere else. The difference is that in Squamish, you're less likely to see it, or hear it coming, or expect it for that matter.

[Cobra_Commander]

(cbs advice on what rack to bring)

 

Sage advice from the individual who was just asking what gear to bring on a single one-pitch route, just after getting off top-rope on it!

[drater]

I'd rather climb in a rain of falling water than a rain of broken holds and trundled crap.

 

You're a moron for driving past all the solid dry rock on your way south then.

[David Trippett]

Stacked dinner plates...Vantage bears no resemblence to Squamish...thou shalt not say the two in the same breath... Heathen Bastards.

Edited October 21, 2005 by avitripp