Winter Climbing Boots???

[gyselinck]

What are some good boots for winter climbing? Have been checking out the reviews on summitpost.org for lots of boots which has been pretty helpful. I was looking at the La Sportiva Trango Extreme but a lot of reviewers said they aren't very waterproof or warm, which is what I hope to get from a boot. (My last pair of boots were La Sportiva and fit well.) I was also looking at those Nepal Extreme's. Anybody have any suggestions as to what you like. I just want good fit, fairly waterproof, and warm. No plastics.

[Alex]

Freney XT, if they fit you.

[Alpinfox]

I've got nepal extremes and they are pretty good. Not as nimble as the trangos, but probably warmer. Putting a better insole in them is a good idea and make sure you fit them with whatever insole you plan to use BEFORE you buy them. Insoles can make a big difference in warmth too.

 

I know a few people who really like the Scarpa Freneys.

 

Edit: scooped by Alex.

Edited September 9, 2005 by Alpinfox

[gyselinck]

Alpinfox, are the Nepal's very waterproof and breathable. My last boots got soaked in wet conditions.

[sobo]

I have a pair of the LS Makalus that have worked well in all but the most chilly conditions (i.e. Canadian ice climbing, where I use my plastic Koflachs). They have never gotten wet inside, have independent fit between the lower and upper, have a full shank so it edges well, and I've beat the shit out of them and they just keep on going. I'm satisfied with them.

 

I run hot, so if you run on the cool side, you may want to wear warmer socks or get an insole, as Pax suggests.

 

 

[Alpinfox]

Alpinfox, are the Nepal's very waterproof and breathable. My last boots got soaked in wet conditions.

 

My boots are still pretty new and the leather is in great shape and I've nikwaxed em, so they are plenty waterproof. The leather has gotten damp a couple of times and on one overnight trip they froze pretty stiff which was a pain in the morning. I've certainly never had large amounts of water in them.

 

I don't think they are very breathable, but then again, I don't think any winter mountaineering boot is.

 

I'm totally satisfied with the boots and if Sportivas fit you, I'd consider getting em especially if you can find a good deal on them. $430 retail is crazy!

[olyclimber]

I've had the Nepal Extremes, but they didn't fit my foot so well, and I had to lace them up tight...and I think my feet got cold because of that (lack of circulation). I now have Freney XTs, which fit my foot much better.

[Dustin_B]

Alpinfox, are the Nepal's very waterproof and breathable. My last boots got soaked in wet conditions.

 

I've had LS Nepal Extremes for 4 seasons now and they are still completely water proof. I don't know if any leather boot can really be classified at a "winter mountaineering" boot but this is probably as warm as leathers get. If you are moving I think your feet would stay warm, but I wouldn't want to 'hang out' in those boots in the winter time.

[sobo]

...I'm totally satisfied with the boots and if Sportivas fit you, I'd consider getting em especially if you can find a good deal on them.

 

This is key. My feet resemble those of a mallard. The only boots that I've found that fit the shape of my feet (width EE, and a huge toebox) are the Koflachs and La Sportiva. Even my rock shoes are LS brand. I cannot wear Scarpas, Lowa, or any other major brand because their shapes cause immense pain.

[soggyendo34]

The scarpa cumbre's are similar to the nepal extremes. They are really warm and climb well. However they are a bit expensive. The nepal extremes are a guides favorite on rainier if that helps at all.

[gyselinck]

Now i just need to find a good deal somewhere on those Nepal's. $420 is just a little pricey.

[sobo]

Start with John at Hyperspud in Yakima. Talk to John Crock himself; he owns the place (and the one in Moscow). He might be sympathetic to the plight of a starving student/dirtbag climber, as he was there once himself...

[Figger_Eight]

The Nepal Extreme's are great. Check out the K4S also, they're quite a bit lighter because they're synthetic. I love my Nepals - I managed to find them at the TNF sale a couple of years ago for $130.

[gyselinck]

Whats the TNF sale, thats a hella good deal.

[John Frieh]

Once you own Kayland you won't go back.

 

I loved my Scarpa Freneys until I got a pair of M11s. Holie shit they are sweet... made my Freney's feel like they were logging boots.

 

Shouldn't this be in the gear critic thread?

 

EDIT: If the shoe fits... wear it! All the boots in this thread are a possibility... try them all on and see what you like!

Edited September 11, 2005 by NOLSe

[eric8]

I have had trango extremes for 3 years now (so i think they have been redesigned??) and love them. Yet warmth and waterproofness can be issues. I have used them enough now that I know how my boots work and these aren't probelms if I'm paying attention. The primary reason I wear them and keep wearing them and can't wait for winter is they climb so well.

 

Anyway my feet get cold if I put them into the boot cold, say if your car camping while ice climbing or in the mountains. I prevent this by sitting inside the cab first thing in the morning with the heater on or if thats not an option putting them inside my puffy while eating breakfast. They also get cold if I were them to tight. Sometimes I crank them really tight for a hard lead then untie the laces at the belay its like screamin barfies for your feet.

 

As far as waterproofness as long as i keep the leather treated its not an issue. I have to do this very frequently though like very other trip or so. And once the leather gets a little wet your pretty much fawked so don't get any snow in your boots.

 

I have scrapa alpha too and rarely wear them. They climb like shit compared to the extremes. And they aren't any warm part of this i think is because my liners are to small.

[chelle]

...As far as waterproofness as long as i keep the leather treated its not an issue. I have to do this very frequently though like very other trip or so. And once the leather gets a little wet your pretty much fawked so don't get any snow in your boots.

 

I have this same problem with my Solomon Super8's. Totally sucks. I've often wondered if it the leather or if it is a breatheability issue and they wet out from the inside. Anybody else have problems with this?

[Figger_Eight]

Any leather boot will start absorbing water once the DWR wears out and/or dirt gets ground into the leather.

 

Anyways, the "best" boots completely suck if they don't fit your feet.

[olyclimber]

Freney XT, if they fit you.

After testing my XTs out, I would have to agree.

[Dru]

Plastic boots rock. If it gets really cold, nothing beats seal skin mukluks.