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[TR] Guye Peak- Improbable Traverse 8/23/2005


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Climb: Guye Peak-Improbable Traverse

 

Date of Climb: 8/23/2005

 

Trip Report:

Yesterday (Tuesday), I left the unpaid internship 5 1/2 hours early and called Gyselinck to maybe go to exit 32 or 38. He suggested the Improbable traverse. We met in North Bend at 1:15 to leave a car and sort our hastily packed crap.

 

We started hiking just before 2 and made good time on the talus slope. At the tip of the rockslide, we scrambled/ climbed for as long as we were comfortable and then roped up.

 

Gyselinck led a near 60 meter pitch to lunch ledge. Then I led the traverse in two pitches, clipping two fixed pins, one old sling, and placing some small stoppers.

 

At the end of the traverse, I led as far as I could up the loose gully. Gyselinck followed and led to the top of the gully where we unroped and easily scrambled to the summit by around 5pm.

 

The descent was uneventful, we scrambled the ridge until reaching the trail on cave ridge. I had heard horror stories of this descent, but had the benefeit of gyselinck having come down Guye twice before.

 

 

Me leading the traverse

3146Improbable_Traverse-med.jpg

 

Gyselinck at the mid traverse belay

3146Improbable_Traverse_Belay-med.jpg

 

Gyselinck scrambling and hiking ramps to the summit

3146Near_Guye_Summit-med.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

Medium Rack, did not use large pieces

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I have been meaning to do those variations. You could easily do all of them in a day. They call that a grade III? It took us 4 hours round trip, not over exerting ourselves. Hour to hike to the base of the climb, 2 hours on the rock, an hour to descend. I thought a grade III is suppose to take half a day of climbing, not two hours (3 pitches). Good exersice though and nice approach. Good leading Matt. laugh.gif

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