[TR] Guye Peak- Improbable Traverse 8/23/2005

[cook]

Climb: Guye Peak-Improbable Traverse

 

Date of Climb: 8/23/2005

 

Trip Report:

Yesterday (Tuesday), I left the unpaid internship 5 1/2 hours early and called Gyselinck to maybe go to exit 32 or 38. He suggested the Improbable traverse. We met in North Bend at 1:15 to leave a car and sort our hastily packed crap.

 

We started hiking just before 2 and made good time on the talus slope. At the tip of the rockslide, we scrambled/ climbed for as long as we were comfortable and then roped up.

 

Gyselinck led a near 60 meter pitch to lunch ledge. Then I led the traverse in two pitches, clipping two fixed pins, one old sling, and placing some small stoppers.

 

At the end of the traverse, I led as far as I could up the loose gully. Gyselinck followed and led to the top of the gully where we unroped and easily scrambled to the summit by around 5pm.

 

The descent was uneventful, we scrambled the ridge until reaching the trail on cave ridge. I had heard horror stories of this descent, but had the benefeit of gyselinck having come down Guye twice before.

 

 

Me leading the traverse

 

Gyselinck at the mid traverse belay

 

Gyselinck scrambling and hiking ramps to the summit

 

Gear Notes:

Medium Rack, did not use large pieces

[ivan]

nice. a fun quick outing. go back and do the 2 variations off lunch ledge too!

[thelawgoddess]

more fun than sitting at a desk staring at a computer screen!

[cook]

We looked at the variations from lunch ledge and made plans to try them later, though I don't know why anyone would want to miss such great ramp climbing.

[gyselinck]

I have been meaning to do those variations. You could easily do all of them in a day. They call that a grade III? It took us 4 hours round trip, not over exerting ourselves. Hour to hike to the base of the climb, 2 hours on the rock, an hour to descend. I thought a grade III is suppose to take half a day of climbing, not two hours (3 pitches). Good exersice though and nice approach. Good leading Matt.

[JoshK]

I'm going to go back and not rope burn my entire hand some time...god that sucked. For something 45 minutes from Seattle it really is pretty neat.

[Lyger]

nice climbing, how many climbs do you think you can get in this week!, you're starting to sound like Gyselinck! Nice pictures too

[cook]

If I keep leaving work early, I'll be as unemployed as Gyselinck

[gyselinck]

No man, theres no difference.

 

You work 40 hour weeks and dont get paid.

I sit around on my ass all day and don't get paid.

 

Therefore; were both unemployed.

[bwrts]

unemployment compensation is all the fukin rocks you boys get to climb. so FO!

[TeleRoss]

You work 40 hour weeks and dont get paid.

Internships are for suckers

[cook]

Internships are for suckers

 

So is the degree that I won't use that comes from the internship. Oh well, good drinking and climbing time.

[TeleRoss]

I hear that.

I've got a shiny new degree and a whole bunch of no job to show for it.

The free time is sure nice though

[knotzen]

Gyselinck at the mid traverse belay

 

Holy moly!

[JoshK]

Gyselinck at the mid traverse belay

 

What? The giant, extremely annoying talus cone pictured below?? :-)

 

Holy moly!

[ashw_justin]

Actually, the crux of this route is when you follow Sky down the SSE side of Guye, as he scouts out random scary gullies for winter skiing potential.

[dbb]

[skykilo]

Dude, this totally goes. What, you want to rap?

[ashw_justin]

rapping is cool, man, and you get to do all kind of rope shenanigans.