Collin Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 This is a question and a story; Question: What went through your head as you fell? What's your story? Story: The crack moved up the wall going from small hands to finger tips. Clipping the anchor chain on P1, I moved up the arching crack of P2. 15 feet above P1 anchor I locked off and placed a nut thinking to myself, "solid placement but it could be better". Another 10 to 15 feet out I could feel the pump grow. Reaching with my right hand I locked off with a single digit. My left hand at my waist, I jammed three fingers knuckle deep into the crack. Just one move away I could see a good place to fit Mr. Blue into. I began to move when something went wrong. My fingers, my feet, I can't remember. "FALLING", I shouted to my belayer as I seperated from the rock. My feet snagged the rough granite turning me upside down. Smashing the back of my helmet, I tumbbled downward. I felt the tension of the rope slow my fall. I though it was over when again I felt no tention on the rope. "Fuck, the rope broke", I thought to myself. Thinking this I remember not being scared that I most likely could die in a few seconds. I just felt relaxed as if it would help ease the impact below. Smack, I hit my helmet again, or what I though was my helmet. The rope caught and I came to a stop. "You alright", my belayer yelled. "Still alive", I replied. Ten seconds later I realized my nut had popped and the anchor from P1 caught me. Still confused of how I came off the rock, I straightened myself and wanted to get back on the crack to redeem myself. I looked down to see blood spatter on my gear and on my shirt. Feeling the back of my head, I felt a wet spot and not the good kind of wet spot. I was bleeding pretty good. 50 + foot fall, small wound to the head, lots scrapes and a cam lodged in my back didn't seem to fade me too much. Climb on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knotzen Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 Ouch! The things we do for "fun." I'm glad it wasn't worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archenemy Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 This is a question and a story; Question: What went through your head as you fell? What's your story? Story: I was bleeding pretty good. 50 + foot fall, small wound to the head, lots scrapes and a cam lodged in my back didn't seem to fade me too much. Climb on. Maybe it faded you a little? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 Damn good thing you were wearing a helmet! Looks like blue from the helmet transferred to your head. So, was it the lower edge of the helmet that gouged the wound in your neck? Basically, you took a FF 2 fall onto the belay, which is the worst sort of fall you can take. The other day I was ridiculed for putting a nut in 6 ft above the belay when there was a bolt only 12 away and easy moves. It's stories like yours that explains why I do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 but what knot do you use???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 Basically, you took a FF 2 fall onto the belay, which is the worst sort of fall you can take. It sounds more like he climbed through the anchors and just clipped them as a piece of pro. The other day I was ridiculed You don't say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 It sounds more like he climbed through the anchors and just clipped them as a piece of pro. Indeed, that's what he did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 so why are you claiming it is a factor 2 fall? Is there a pit at the base of this climb he fell into or am I way off base here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 No there was no FF 2 fall. I misread what he said. It still was a huge fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefan Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 Question: What went through your head as you fell? What's your story? When I fell from a rappel and broke both my ankles, during the fall, I thought: "Shit, my wife is going to be pissed off." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 "did i leave the iron on?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 exasperator? like bret said having taken a 60+ foot slab fall, "No slab will ever scare me again" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 "What went through your head while you were falling?" Well, when I landed on my noggin, it was my helmet and a large pointed rock that went through my head... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 one-one-thousand, two-one-thous.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 you counting time to post deletion?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 flight time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 oh...i'm a pansy...i never get more than one-thousand out on gear or bolts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mec Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 falling is fun. I like taking those brand new ropes and climbing up a good 30 feet, placing gear, the climbing another 10-15 feet and jumping. Really breaks those ropes right in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Collin Posted August 24, 2005 Author Share Posted August 24, 2005 I've fallen big on plenty of overhanging climbs with no injuries. I definitely would rather fall clean then down a slab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted August 25, 2005 Share Posted August 25, 2005 "No no no no nonononononononono...." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marylou Posted August 25, 2005 Share Posted August 25, 2005 When I fell from a rappel and broke both my ankles, during the fall, I thought: "Shit, my wife is going to be pissed off." When I fell while leading, and broke both my ankles, I thought: "shit, my mom is going to kill me." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted August 25, 2005 Share Posted August 25, 2005 First bolt goes by - Fuck! I shoulda clipped it! Second bolt goes by - brace for impact. Third bolt goes by - what the fuck? Fourth bolt goes by - AAAAHHH!!! Whack, end of fall, only banged one ankle Not all climbs at the Tieton have good ledges at the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted August 25, 2005 Share Posted August 25, 2005 I spun around facing out from the cliff, looked at my hand a saw a part of the cliff in it's grasp. I thought, 'What the fuck is going on? Oh shit! I got to hit that ledge or I am fucked.' I tossed the rock out of my hand. Luckily I hit the ledge and avoided a long pendulum fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cairns Posted August 25, 2005 Share Posted August 25, 2005 This is a question and a story; Question: What went through your head as you fell? What's your story? I think the saccular otolith reports on vertical accelerations, usual average resting rate of sensory neurons around 100 spikes/sec, a few thousand fibers per side. I forget what the average sensitivity is but if the sudden unweighting silences them all that's a few hundred thousand missing inputs which is pretty much the first noticeable thing to "go through" my head and yours, too. After that it gets complicated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Collin Posted August 25, 2005 Author Share Posted August 25, 2005 I spun around facing out from the cliff, looked at my hand a saw a part of the cliff in it's grasp. I thought, 'What the fuck is going on? Oh shit! I got to hit that ledge or I am fucked.' I tossed the rock out of my hand. Luckily I hit the ledge and avoided a long pendulum fall. Did you aim for the ledge? I got to hit that ledge or I am fucked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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