111 Posted August 9, 2005 Posted August 9, 2005 Does anyone know of a place to get beta on the newer routes on wolf rock? (Not in "Climbs of SW Oregon") I climbed there this weekend and was amazed at this glorious gem hidden away. If you havent heard about this place before, I highly suggest checking it out. Safe bolting on 5.10-5.11 routes under the arch created some incredible lines. Quote
111 Posted August 9, 2005 Author Posted August 9, 2005 oh, forgot to post photos of the place. Here ya go: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=12681&sort=1&cat=all&page=1 Quote
John Frieh Posted August 9, 2005 Posted August 9, 2005 Retired should have finished his route by now (in addition to knowing all the routes). PM him. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted August 9, 2005 Posted August 9, 2005 check out the first pitch of barad-dur... looks fun eh? Quote
111 Posted August 10, 2005 Author Posted August 10, 2005 Wolf Rock is in the Rock Climbing Southwest Oregon guide and can be found by taking Hwy 20 to near Tombstone Pass and then Forest Road 15 for about 20 miles until you see the giant face ahead. Quote
Kevin_Matlock Posted August 11, 2005 Posted August 11, 2005 Anybody got beta on the scramble route (suppose to be class 2/3-ish)? Wonder the mileage and if I should take up a non-climber friend. Sounds easy enough though and safe if I toss him on belay if need be. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted August 11, 2005 Posted August 11, 2005 (edited) Anybody got beta on the scramble route (suppose to be class 2/3-ish)? Wonder the mileage and if I should take up a non-climber friend. Sounds easy enough though and safe if I toss him on belay if need be. Â It is easy class 2/3, but the approach can be hell, I dont know if there is a trail or not. I've never really found one. Except to the base of the sport climbs. Be carfull thought wich way you traverse around the base, at times I found my self doing some chossy exposed 5th class with a heavy ass haul bag trying to pull me off the rock. I really scared my self walking around like that one day. I suggest bushwacking instead of trying to stay on the rock. Mabey send a PM to retired he should have some beta for you. Edited August 11, 2005 by corvallisclimb Quote
111 Posted August 12, 2005 Author Posted August 12, 2005 Mooner, when are you going up there? Col and I might come with you. Quote
retired Posted August 13, 2005 Posted August 13, 2005 Wolf rock is a huge choss pile...always has been, always will be. Quote
JosephH Posted August 14, 2005 Posted August 14, 2005 "Safe bolting on 5.10-5.11 routes under the arch created some incredible lines." Â What exactly does "safe bolting" mean to you...? Quote
shapp Posted August 15, 2005 Posted August 15, 2005 I believe all the bolted routes under the arch were established by Bret Hall in about 1997, although I don't know who his partner was. I climbed all of them the year they were put up. They are all very good with routes and pretty steep and solid. I too took a pretty big whipper out into space on one of the 10+ routes. Incidently Bret started climbing in the mid 1990's and repointed 13.b after only about 2 years of climbing. I have not seen him for many years. Does anyone out there know where he is? Quote
shapp Posted August 15, 2005 Posted August 15, 2005 It is possible that John Glass (spp.?) from Corvallis at the time may have put those routes up with Bret. Another amazing climber. Incidently, Bret, John, Matt Pike and Possibley Matt Baker were some of the first to develop some of the bouldering at what is now refered I believe as the Grove. Quote
JosephH Posted August 15, 2005 Posted August 15, 2005 Schapp, Â Thanks for the info. Just curious if someone knew what they were doing and if the routes are protectable with gear... Â Joseph Quote
shapp Posted August 15, 2005 Posted August 15, 2005 The routes are typically sport bolted. They are face climbs with no natural pro available. Bolts are probably 10 feet apart or so if I remember correctly. Quote
corvallisclimb Posted August 30, 2005 Posted August 30, 2005 this is a pretty sick tr http://www.summitpost.org/show/route_link.pl/route_id/5945/object_id/3561 Quote
Stewart Posted October 12, 2005 Posted October 12, 2005 check out the first pitch of barad-dur... looks fun eh? I was out there this spring '05 and was interested in doing Barad-dur, but it was raining. Still hiked up to check it out and did a couple of the sport route's cuz there under the roofs. I think I did the left route of Forked Route. I didn't have a guide book, but have identified it from Vol. 1 The Willamette. It was pretty stiff and alot of fun. I took a whipper after pulling the little roof/crux? and would say the bolts kept me from hitting the ground, so that route was bolted safetly. I had thought that the bolts were spaced perfectly, but I like a heady lead. Some sissy from the gym would probable cry the whole way up. Not that I'm that tough. With all that said, if any of you have done barad-dur I would love some info cuz the first bolt I saw on the route was about (30ft?) up. The guide book doesn't list any pro or info on the first couple of pitches. Friends who always try to scare me before I do any pitch said that Wayne Arrington has balls of steel from being in vetniam and that he ran the thing out to all hell. I mean looking at those roofs and thinking I would like to onsite-solo up there is pretty intense. It just makes me that much more interested in climbing it. Plus "barad-dur" that's a scary place. Peace, Stewart Quote
Stewart Posted October 12, 2005 Posted October 12, 2005 To JosephH; Didn't think the routes I did could be done with gear. Maybe one piece under the small roof that I think I used as an under cling, but that was at the 6th bolt and my memory is cloudy. Â To retired; I did have one handhold break off on me, but blamed it on the rain softing things up and I was probable the first person to climb it that year, maybe some frost wedging had occured. Otherwise I thought the route I was on was pretty solid. What's been your experiance, cuz I'm planning on returning as soon as possible. Thanks, Stewart Quote
retired Posted October 15, 2005 Posted October 15, 2005 Sorry guys my comment was made with tongue firmly in cheek, just have been away awhile and didn't realize someone really needed info. Wolf rock is the reputed largest monolith in Oregon and has the most new route potential of any crag I've climbed at in the state. The sport arch is just a small example of what could happen there. Wolf was until the early to mid 90's a trad area where what few bolts existed were put in on lead. This ethic was thrown out the window with the first rap bolted sport routes in the early to mid 90's Myself and few friends added a few of our own when we discovered our old scarey crag had it's cherry popped so to speak. Now it's just kind of sitting in limbo with acres of good rock and even more acres of choss. will be interesting to see if new route activity picks up with the release of the guide. Great place, respect it and have your fun either from the top down of the bottom up. If you put up any new stuff let me know I'll pass the info along. Jim Quote
retired Posted October 15, 2005 Posted October 15, 2005 Oh and that first bolt up on Barad Dur is a retrobolt. Quote
powderhound Posted February 25, 2010 Posted February 25, 2010 Anybody done Pooh Corner? Â I know this sounds crass...but how many times you going to ask before you just go do it? I mean there are not a lot of A3/A4 climbers in the state. I know that Tyler has contemplated that route many times. If you do it...make sure to post up some pics of the gnar!! Quote
justinp Posted February 25, 2010 Posted February 25, 2010 I know this sounds crass...but how many times you going to ask before you just go do it? Â Dudes got one post. Am I missing something? Quote
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