JosephH Posted July 25, 2005 Posted July 25, 2005 Hi, We've had two busy weekends out at Beacon since the opening and wanted to post a couple of points. 1) The free parking pullout to the east of the main [pay] parking lot has limited space, if you are the first ones out there on a weekend please do not park parallel to the road - park diagonally facing Southeast to make the most of the space. 2) The anchors with light gray slings are brand new with two independent 1" webbing slings slung in a figure 8 with two 50kn stainless rings through the X in the figure 8; this configuration allows them to equalize across both anchors and automatically adjust to rapping in any direction. They need no additional slings and cordage - and in fact, adding slings will just screw up the mechanism. Please do not add any slings or cords to the new anchors as it's a hassle to go remove them. If you have any questions about the anchors or see anchors you feel have a problem email to Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com 3) The cracks around the belay stations aren't ashtrays, please don't fill them with your butts (to who ever was on Young Warriors Sunday at the top of the second pitch...). 4) Jim Opdyke has restored the lost arrow piton that was traditionally near the top of the first pitch of the Southeast Corner if anyone wonders where it came from... 5) There are lots of ledges and rap stations with smallish gravel at Beacon - especially so on routes all across the entire Souteast Corner and faces - please be cognizant of the movements of your feet and rope across such spots as it can really rain down on folks at the base. Even small stones can do damage so bring a helmet - particularly on weekends for sure or anytime you're venturing off the beaten track... Thanks all... Joseph Healy Beacon Rock Climber's Association. Quote
Mr_D Posted July 31, 2005 Posted July 31, 2005 Wonderful work done out there. Thanks for your large investment of time and money! All of the stations make Beacon that much nicer of a climbing experience. Now, I just hope no one decides to steal the nice rap rings you have added. -Mr_D Quote
neswstar Posted August 1, 2005 Posted August 1, 2005 ditto - thank you for posting this notice - and thank you and any others for all the hard work! Quote
JosephH Posted August 3, 2005 Author Posted August 3, 2005 =================== Beacon Rock Update... =================== Free Parking Area - once again, please do not park parallel to the road in the free parking area East of the main lot, park diagonally facing the SE - thanks... A Little Consideration - leaving unleashed dogs at the base of multi-pitch routes and covering the entire area at the base with your gear is a complete drag for folks coming up after you who don't know your animals and need some room to "suit up" as well. So a little consideration please, leash your dogs at all times if you must bring them out, pack out their waste, and don't monopolize the entire base of multi-pitch climbs. Young Warriors - the block you step around at the start of the second pitch is big, not solid, and is what's left after trundling its righthand twin last fall. It isn't loose as in 'moves when you touch it' loose, but it is perceptibly "loose" and should not be pulled on any more than absolutely necessary - particularly not out away from the cliff as you step around it. We all need to monitor the status of this rock closely and if it comes to it we'll have to coordinate removing it with the park staff. This is somewhat problematic as it is possible it is chocking the rather larger rock above it. Time will tell - be careful around it and let myself, Jim Opdyke, Bill Coe, Kevin Evansen, or one of the Park Rangers know if it ever does move significantly on you. Grassy Ledges Rocks - while we did do a significant amount of high priority, pre-opening trundling/cleaning, there is still a large amount of loose rock up on Grassy Ledges, some of it fairly big. Cleaning it will be the focus of next year's pre-opening work session, but until then - please, everyone be extremely careful making your way across the Grassy Ledges (p3 of SE Face), especially watch your rope!!! Main SE Descent Rappels - we are still logging lots of incidents of smaller rock coming down during some climber's raps, so again please be especially careful of your feet and rope movements on the uppermost two rap stations. And as always it's a good idea to where a helmet at the start of the SE Face, Little Wing, etc. if it is a busy day out there. SE Face Tree - the big landmark tree on the corner ledge above the slab has been taking a beating for years now as both a belay station and as a rap anchor. Please do not ever rap directly off the tree; one, it's a "bad rap" in general and a lousy way down; two, you are far better off continuing on up to the main Grassy Ledges rap or downclimb 12 feet and then traverse right 12 feet to the p2 anchors on Young Warriors rapping from there. In fact, if you are planning on only doing the first to pitches of the SE Face, then don't go up to the tree ledge and instead, on topping out from the slab, simply continue straight ahead to that p2 Young Warrior anchor right in front of you. At some point we'll be organizing a work crew to haul enough soil/gravel to re-bury the main root structure; how we end up dealing with rapping damage to the tree itself will depend on how it fairs this year. In general we'd ask that you simply not use the tree at all and build belay anchors on the ledge instead - however, if you must, then please use webbing or your rope and not thin cord[elettes] as they damage the tree more. This will likely be another long term monitoring situation out there so please pass this on to folks you know and let see if we can't all work to insure this Beacon landmark is around for a long, long time to come. Anchor Replacement Project - We've been out doing more work this past week including finally getting up to replace the top rap station for the standard SE Face/Grassy Legdes descent route. Along the way the anchors on the first two pitches of Young Warriors were replaced, all four bolts turned out to be spinners so it was about time for an upgrade. Ground Zero Rap Anchor - it is currently gone and we will finish replacing it asap; darkness and reason intervened in the middle of the operation. The original anchors are still up and to the right and remain serviceable until we can get back to it; either that or simply walk 60 feet to the right and use the main SE rap. Peregrines - they have been really active and you'll see signs of their predation all over the South face in the form of large swaths of feathers where they've fed and possibly bodiless wing pairs around the base below. And if you get out much you don't really have to be all that lucky to see them. Their cries, tucked dives, and close flybys are pretty spectacular. That's it for this update - have fun, play safe... Joseph Healy Beacon Rock Climber's Association Quote
Off_White Posted August 3, 2005 Posted August 3, 2005 Three cheers for stewardship! Thanks for the report. Quote
JosephH Posted August 6, 2005 Author Posted August 6, 2005 =================== Beacon Rock Update... =================== Oh, a quick note - the rap rings and webbing are not on the anchor at the top of P2 on Young Warriors for a couple of days. If you need to rap at that point just thread your rope through the beefy Metolius rap anchors as that's what they are designed for... Joseph Healy Beacon Rock Climber's Association [8/20 - This anchor has been restored...] Quote
JosephH Posted August 22, 2005 Author Posted August 22, 2005 =================== Beacon Rock Update... =================== BRSP Ranger John Ernester asked that I pass along that the female black bear with cubs from last year is still about and unfortunately now has an injured paw. If you do see her and her cub please give them wide berth. They often tend to travel from above the highway East of Beacon down across the tracks to a single track along the river and then head West of Beacon and the boat launch. Last fall we saw them cross the tracks repeatedly about a 100 yards East of the SE corner. Again, give them plenty of room and please let them pass quietly, thanks... Joseph Healy Beacon Rock Climber's Association Quote
ivan Posted August 23, 2005 Posted August 23, 2005 joe, an idea came to me as i made 4 solo trips past the big tree y-day - why not just deposit a huge pile of dirt down by the base of the se corner w/ a sign asking anyohe who feels like it to haul a pack of dirt up to the ledge? shit, if there'd been some i coulda left 20-30 lbs up there myself in just one evening and it wouldn't have detracted from my experience at all. the route sees so much traffic i bet in just a month we could get a couple hundred lbs up there. better yet, someone could donate an old shitty pack to leave w/ the pile (i might have one somewhere in my garage) and they could either hike it back down when done w/ the route or chuck it back down when empty. save the tree! it's a very cool thing to have there. leaving a permanent sling around it would elimate the rope burns from those who insist on rapping off it too. Quote
JosephH Posted August 25, 2005 Author Posted August 25, 2005 Eric, Bill Coe suggested doing a big soil haul job up to the tree from the ground and it's a great idea. The BRSP Staff and Jim Opdyke are on board so we'll get ahold of you when we get around to doing it - probably late fall. A sling will probably be going in on the tree soon and we'll see how that goes. Thanks for the suggestions... Quote
billcoe Posted August 25, 2005 Posted August 25, 2005 joe, an idea came to me as i made 4 solo trips past the big tree y-day - why not just deposit a huge pile of dirt down by the base of the se corner w/ a sign asking anyohe who feels like it to haul a pack of dirt up to the ledge? shit, if there'd been some i coulda left 20-30 lbs up there myself in just one evening and it wouldn't have detracted from my experience at all. First: I think thats a great idea Ivan (the dirt pile). But we can do it either way. Second: Dude, free soloing with weight in a backback? I don't like to give advice (of course thats a bald face lie which I using to introduce my statement) but you might consider slowing down a bit. 2-1/2 - if you got pulled off because of a bunch of dirt you stuff in a backpack your little baby would never forgive any of us for not speaking up. Third: maybe a new sport "extreeme Free-soloing" is now born wherin various climbers can load up with weight and fire some routes. The winner is the one with the most weight.....well, the one with the most wweight who doesn't fall off. Note: it has been pointed out to me that you never see a large tree growing on a cliff. The reason is that they generally get large enough that between the lack of nutrients and winter storms, they don't survive. But I think we'd all like to see the tree there for many years: It's a great belay point and nice to get a slight bit of shade sometimes, and it's a worthy project. Quote
JosephH Posted August 29, 2005 Author Posted August 29, 2005 (edited) =================== Beacon Rock Update - 8/28/05... =================== Free Parking Area - Yet again, please do not park parallel to the road in the free parking area East of the main lot, park diagonally facing the SE - Saturday was a complete parking disaster with all the first arrivals parking parallel sending later arrivals spread down the road. If authorities continue seeing cars spread down the road beyond the pullout we will be in very real risk of seeing this free parking area closed. It is small so please park diagonally and please leave notes for anyone you see who isn't. Flying Dutchman Rap Anchor - And another reminder that these are currently gone and we will finish replacing it asap; darkness and reason intervened in the middle of the operation. The original anchors are still up and to the right and remain serviceable until we can get back to it; either that or simply walk 60 feet to the right and use the main SE rap. If you have any questions about the status of anchors email Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com That's it for this update - park considerately, have fun, and play safe... Joseph Healy Beacon Rock Climber's Association P.S. It would really help if everyone would printout the slips below and leave them on cars they find parallel parked in the free pullout...thanks. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Parking in this free pullout is at a premium and we need to make the most of it, especially on weekends - so please, don't park parallel to the road - park diagonally, head-in, pointed to the Southeast. We risk losing all these free parking spaces if the authorities keep finding cars spread along the road beyond the pullout where it makes getting on and off the road that much more dangerous. Also, if the pullout is full, please bite the bullet and pay to park in the main lot and not along the road, otherwise we'll lose this resource. Thanks for your help... Beacon Rock Climbers Association Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Parking in this free pullout is at a premium and we need to make the most of it, especially on weekends - so please, don't park parallel to the road - park diagonally, head-in, pointed to the Southeast. We risk losing all these free parking spaces if the authorities keep finding cars spread along the road beyond the pullout where it makes getting on and off the road that much more dangerous. Also, if the pullout is full, please bite the bullet and pay to park in the main lot and not along the road, otherwise we'll lose this resource. Thanks for your help... Beacon Rock Climbers Association Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Parking in this free pullout is at a premium and we need to make the most of it, especially on weekends - so please, don't park parallel to the road - park diagonally, head-in, pointed to the Southeast. We risk losing all these free parking spaces if the authorities keep finding cars spread along the road beyond the pullout where it makes getting on and off the road that much more dangerous. Also, if the pullout is full, please bite the bullet and pay to park in the main lot and not along the road, otherwise we'll lose this resource. Thanks for your help... Beacon Rock Climbers Association Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Edited September 13, 2005 by JosephH Quote
JosephH Posted September 12, 2005 Author Posted September 12, 2005 (edited) =================== Beacon Rock Update - 9/11/05... =================== Illegal Route Markings - We had an incident of two climbs being marked with arrows scratched into the rock. We'd like to make it explicitly clear that marking of any kind is forbidden by State and BRSP regulations and that route finding is both a required skill and an integral [and desirable] part of climbing at Beacon Rock. If you know the way you don't need arrows and if the person following you can't follow your rope [and chalk] without arrows they don't belong on the route. Please do not make markings in or on the rock in any way whatsoever [even with chalk] as a) it sucks and b) it gives Jim Opdyke seizures and we are trying to keep him around at least as long as the SE Corner tree. Bad Fall on "Free for Some" - As noted elsewhere on CC.com, a groundfall was taken on 8/30 on "Free for Some". This accident was a bad fall where otherwise good protection failed under specific, induced conditions. The belayer did a great job and leader was placing good protection; but in the fall got their leg under the rope snagging their second piece of pro and pulling it resulting in a ground fall. It is miraculous how little this lucky climber was injured given the fall and the topology at the base of the route. We don't have all the technical details yet, but this serves to remind us all to be constantly aware of the relationship of feet to rope while climbing; that helmets are good; and that "taking" on a difficult [trad] leads may not necessarily be an option available to you. The climber in question has displayed a stellar attitude in the wake of this incident and is to be commended for communicating the experience so well - all our best to their swift recovery and return to the rock. SE Corner Tree - As one step in a long term effort to preserve this landmark tree we have installed slings and rings on it. Please use these rather than the tree for a belay or rappelling anchor. Also, with regard to rappelling from the tree: this has got to be one of the lousiest rappels on earth; just continue up to the Grassy Ledges main rap or, if you must rappel after the second pitch, then don't go up to the tree at all. Rather, at the top of the second pitch slab, instead of going up to the tree ledge, just go straight ahead 15 feet to the second pitch anchors of Young Warriors and rap there (2 raps with a 60, 1 rap with two 60's - don't do this with one 50 meter rope) Trails and Ledge Paths - Please take extra care and watch your footfalls when walking on both the climber's trail to the base and on ledge paths such as up on Grassy Ledges. All trails and ledge paths are taking a bit of a beating this year. On the main climber's trail to the base in particular please pay attention and try not to further erode the trail. On ledges please pay particular attention to loose rocks and stones - especially smaller ones when going by them with either your feet or your rope. Helmets are definitely recommended. Anchor Replacement Project - As noted above the SE Corner tree got slings and rings, please use them if you don't feel comfortable building your own anchor in rock which is how the that pitch is traditionally anchored. - The broken Z-pin at the top of "Jill's Thrills" was replaced by a long fat Lost Arrow. The Z-pin was not all that well placed (too long for the placement) and pretty much came right out and the "eye" was also splitting off from the body due to folks stepping or hanging on it over the years. We tried to replace it with a shorter Z-pin but the only thing that worked [solid] was the Lost Arrow. The lower Bugaboo on the route is solid. - The top anchors on "Flying Dutchman" have been replaced, but need to be tightened. - Future efforts: we are onto the main south face columns with "Flying Swallow" the first to go and we estimate another 25-30 anchors need to be replaced across the columns along with a smaller number of fixed pitons. Many of the intermediate anchors on these routes will get just the large Metolius Rap anchors that can be rapped directly and will not be outfitted with rings and slings as they don't get nearly the traffic and basically none of the raps are multi-directional, they just rap straight down the column. We have the costs covered, but let us know if you're up for helping out in the work sessions. They can make for a long, grueling day of humping gear, hauling, and jugging without doing much of anything in the way of climbing per se. If your up for that, then send an email to Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com with "Anchor Project" as the subject line and we'll get in touch with you. Peregrines - Healthy and screaching about everytime we go out - magnificent in a dive and you can see the remains of their feasts on many of the column tops across the South side and on SE corner ledges: Seagulls, Blue Jays, and Pigeons in broad circled splashes of feathers and discarded wing sets... Free Parking Pullout - As always, park diagonally, head in to the Southeast in the free pullout to the East of the main lot - not parallel to the road. Joseph Healy Beacon Rock Climber's Association Edited September 13, 2005 by JosephH Quote
Mr_D Posted September 15, 2005 Posted September 15, 2005 Again...more good info, but one questions. Why are these updates in the Oregon thread? -Sensitive Washingtonian Needing Some Sense of Identity. Quote
ivan Posted September 15, 2005 Posted September 15, 2005 maybe cuz more portlander's climb there than sw washingtonians? maybe cuz nobody ever looks in the sw washington forum because no-one gives a shit about helens or adams? maybe cuz beacon's about 300 yards from the border? who can argue w/ tradition? Quote
JosephH Posted September 16, 2005 Author Posted September 16, 2005 To a degree Ivan is right. I post here to highlight the unusual situation Beacon Rock represents relative to all interested parties. It may be in Washington, but the vast majority of Beacon climbers including all the locals are from the immediate Portland area. This is not without consequences relative to legal, advocacy, monitoring, and relationship aspects of involvement with managing climbing and access at such an active, highly multi-use state park. Quote
Hanger Posted September 19, 2005 Posted September 19, 2005 Hey hey hey...don't make us move that hunk of rock across the river...cuz we'll do it! Quote
JosephH Posted September 20, 2005 Author Posted September 20, 2005 It almost was moved, but in very small pieces. Those tunnels are blast charge holes and the "Arena of Terror" (big overhanging circle on the SW Corner) was formed when one of these tunnels packed with explosives was blown. The intent was to use it for gravel for railroads and building in Portland. Quote
JosephH Posted September 20, 2005 Author Posted September 20, 2005 =================== Beacon Rock Update - 9/20/05... =================== Anchor Replacement Project Flying Dutchman Anchors and Rap: The work on the main South face columns is now underway. The key anchor at the top of "Flying Dutchman" has been replaced as have the four anchors below on the route and on "Bears in Heat" next to it. All the bolts in all the five anchor sets were spinners and loose. "Flying Dutchman" is the route that tops out at the far West end of the Grassy Ledges trail past the large pine tree. For experienced folks that are totally comfortable with rappelling, rapping "Flying Dutchman" is the fastest, cleanest, and most interesting way to get down from any route that ends up on the Grassy Ledges. It also might open your eyes to some possibilities beyond the [classics] "Blownout" and "Blood, Sweat and Smears". There is a blue safety rope attached to the pine tree that can be used to navigate down the last thirty feet or so of the Grassy Ledges trail to get to the top anchor of "Flying Dutchman"; set up on it like a rappel or use a grigri. The other end of the blue rope is attached to the top anchor of "Wild Turkeys" - don't go down there, but rather use the rope to follow the trail down and West where it ends at the column top and anchor of "Flying Dutchman". The rappel from this top anchor is spectacular and a pair of 60 meter ropes (with rope stretch) will deposit you on the walk off ramp just above the trail. 70m ropes will put you directly on the trail with about 15 feet of rope to spare. There are two Oak trees at the base of the route and the walk off ramp is at the lower of the two. Pulling your ropes on this rap takes next to no energy at all and if you just let the rope come down under its own power at the very end of the pull it will come down clean staying out of the tree. ARP - What's Next: The next Anchor Replacement Project session will be working East from this rap towards Blownout. Later sessions will eventually finish up by "Wrong Gull" at which point the East Half of the South face will be complete. After that the routes West of "Flying Dutchman" between "Dirty Double Overhang" and "Steppenwolf" will complete the Anchor Replacement Project. Help is always welcome as there are about 40 anchors left to repair/replace, it's hard work with little climbing, but pretty damn rewarding in its own right - if it looks like you have a day free help out, email Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com and let us know. Grassy Ledges Safety Issues: Please be extra careful with your feet and ropes anytime you are up on GL as there are lots of loose rocks about and the ledges won't be cleaned up until next year's pre-opening work session. Also, the BRCA, along with John Ernster of the BSRP Staff, are going to be working through some [safety] issues relative to topping out on a number of the [column] routes that end short of the GL trail and come up with a permanent solution to replace the blue rope that is up there now. Our intent is to come up with a solution that will both service more routes and be a bit less conspicuous. We'll keep you posted as this work develops but we won't be doing either the survey or planning until near the end of the year. Kudos to contributors: Thanks for helping out with the Anchor Replacement Project are definitely in order: - Ranger John Ernster and the Beacon Rock State Park Staff have been absolutely fantastic in providing logistical support, guidance, feedback, and oversight of the Anchor Replacement Project. We wouldn't be able to get any of this work done without their being behind the effort 110% of the way. Thank a Ranger the next time you meet one out at Beacon... - Jim Opdyke has been just utterly invaluable in lending his intimate knowledge of Beacon history and providing guidance to this effort so be sure and give him a pat on the back if you run into him out there. Or, for that matter as a Founding Father of the BRCA, take him for a beer up at Skamania Lodge or down in PDX some time and ply him for a tale or two. - Bill Coe another BRCA Founding Father, Bill has also been instrumental in providing guidance, brawn, material, and tools to the effort. - Brooke Sandahl / Metolius for sourcing their fabulous and beefy Rap Anchors. - Gavin Ferguson / US Outdoor Store for sourcing the webbing and Fixe rap rings. Joseph Healy Beacon Rock Climber's Association Quote
Off_White Posted September 20, 2005 Posted September 20, 2005 Again...more good info, but one questions. Why are these updates in the Oregon thread? -Sensitive Washingtonian Needing Some Sense of Identity. Dear SWNSSI: As Nicholas Dodge noted in the old Oregon Rock guide, "Beacon Rock is the best climbing in Oregon, even if it is in Washington." True, this was before Alan Watts helped put Smith Rock on the big stage, but I'm sure there are some who would argue that this aphorism is still true. Quote
John Frieh Posted September 20, 2005 Posted September 20, 2005 What is up with the climber's bulletin board being screwed shut? How are climbers suppose to post things for other climbers to see if someone screwed the thing shut? Am I suppose to start carrying a cordless drill with me? Or should I just spray paint my message at the base of SE corner? Will someone who has the power and "right" to access the bulletin board please open it and post my note about my lost rock shoe in a position that everyone can see? Quote
JosephH Posted September 20, 2005 Author Posted September 20, 2005 NOLSe, I noticed that Sunday myself and wondered about it. There were a couple of notes inside it on the lower left corner that I believe were about shoes of some sort. I'll check with John Ernster and find out what the deal is and check those notes for you... Quote
JosephH Posted September 21, 2005 Author Posted September 21, 2005 Anyone have a spare Ryobi 18v battery they could contribute for a couple of months? The recip saw eats them too fast and we need a second battery for it. If you do please email Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com or pm me here. Joseph Beacon Rock Climbers Association Quote
JosephH Posted September 22, 2005 Author Posted September 22, 2005 I was asked what gear we are using for the anchor replacement project. Here you go - it packs up at 104 pounds with water and a small rack to get up to Grassy Ledges: Quote
JosephH Posted September 24, 2005 Author Posted September 24, 2005 =================== Beacon Rock Update - 9/23/05... =================== Anchor Replacement Project Flying Dutchman Anchors and Rap: Flying Dutchman has been cleaned and restored to climbable and protectable condition, enjoy... Joseph Healy Beacon Rock Climber's Association Quote
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