bouldering

[freak]

If ya have any info on bouldering first accents in the icicle. Please email me with info,, nickrosser@usa.net Anything would be great, info on that stuff up mountain home road, Tumwater across the river, you know the spot, barneys,swift, fuzz, ice house, egg's, fridge, thanks, nic

[pope]

Bouldering first ascents? Are you kidding? Boulders are for fun. Boulders were placed on this earth so that a guy can go climbing with his girlfriend without having to trust her belay. First ascents? That sort of documentation is pointless, like setting a milk pail under a bull.

But if you're eyeing a new project, two things are certainly true: Dick Cilley already did it, and Victor will certainly bolt it.

[freak]

hey pope-I must agree that boulders are for fun. Im just trying to compile some kind of a guide book.

 

If you dont trust your girlfriend to belay you then would you trust her to spot you while topping some desperate off the deck sketchfest?

If you dont have shit to say exept your lame opinion on bouldering then dont post. nic

[Peter_Puget]

FYI: Dick Cilley is just a guidebook invention when the FA party was unknown.

[ScottP]

Peter Puget wrote:

>FYI: Dick Cilley is just a guidebook >invention when the FA party was unknown.

That's pretty funny.

 

[erik]

pope, i will agree with you in part. bouldering is a way to look at the pretty girlZ. i jusy love spotting a little thing as she grunts and groans up some off the deck sketch fest. those little shorts are heaven sent.

for any women and religous types that want to agrgue i don't care.... as for the women i know you like it or you wouldn't be buy those shorts.

[erik]

nic,

on the nw rounded corner of the sword boulder. me bros put up pimp slap, it is a open handed sloper problem. i think it goes at v420. when i did it i was in a transdental mode and sent plenty of sickness that day, even all over the crash pad. does anyone know if you should use cold or warm water on it? :razz:

[Blight]

for those that may have been mislead by peter puget's comment about dick cilley being ficticious, pp is either:

a)misinformed

b)smoking crack

c)making a joke

[Dru]

About 5-6 years ago.

I've told people that didn't know any better (like Border Guards) I was a sponsored climber once or twice but I have never told anyone I was a Dick! (I've told annoying people I thought THEY were Dicks though).

[pope]

Recent Dick siting: I saw Dick in Leavenworth last summer. He invited me to scrub boulders up at the Lakes but I blew him off. One of the proudest moments of my life: I was a dick to Dick.

[Dru]

Oh wow you blew Dick!

[dbb]

Dru- hey I remember that guy from Josh. Isn't he an old UW type?

[Dru]

I dunno UW but he's like the god of 80's hard face climbing where he was too trad to bolt stuff and too slack to redpoint or yoyo hard runout cracks so he just TR'ed everything. He's one of those original unique types of American climbing like Tucker Tech or Chongo. You know, guys who aren't sponsored or spraying all over mags but somehow have lived the last 30 years as perpetual climbing bums, who are always drunk or stoned and look out of shape but do hard 5.11 offwidths in flip flops "off the couch" anyways. More props to them! My idols!

[freak]

those guys are bad ass, did chongo's book on big wall climbing ever come out. I looked at it once in a drunken daze. it was like a PHD thiesis. really good. ahhhhh memories of Jtree. nic

[freak]

HEy Erik,

ya see thouse boulders below icicle buttress? those are some sick lines. theres one down there thats like this big prow very, very thin holds. I scrubed a few holds but its beyond me, theres a rad day of bouldering inbetween alphabet rock and icicle buttress, a good cluster of hidden steep rock.nic

[crazyjizzy]

Dick Cilley is a real person (ass). In the Valley in the early eighties, he went thru a phase where he wanted to be called "Richard", of course, we continued to call him "Dick". As was stated once, "the only thing Dick Ciley's parents could have named him better than Dick, would have been Asshole".

[freak]

hey eric, is pimp slap thing that sit starts and then moves into the overhaning dihereal? that thing is rad. Topout? nic

[Dru]

Yeah, if Dick Cilley is a joke who was that guy selling ugly J-Tree tshirts out of his VW van in Josh last time I was there?

[erik]

nic,

no it starts right under the bulge then goes right over it. there is pretty nice friction there. i have a huge problem with my feet cutting away. as i reach over the top to the 'pimp slap'. i tried the diheeral, but had a had time toppping out. the top out is dirty slab to the top.

p.s. for everyone my name is spelt with a "k" thank you

erik

 

[Peter_Puget]

Come on haven't any of you ever said you were Dick? I have met several Dicks over the years. Hell I've even been a Dick a couple times in the Icicle. Dru, when did you see him in JT?

[Peter_Puget]

Am I ever sorry that I made the mistake of joking around and saying Dick wasn’t a real person. I actually did it after talking to him in the AM. Believe it or not, I have heard many stories involving Dick over the years that cannot possible be true due to the fact that at the time the story was supposedly taking place he was in half the world away. For the record, Dick is not usually drunk, stoned or disheveled and generally looks in shape. Over the 25 years I have known him he is the most “psyched to climb” person I have ever met. Nic or Erik I am sure you would have a great time bouldering/climbing with him – look at the post for partner wanted.

With regard to, Crazyjz’s comments, as far as I know Dick’s never anonymously posted a vitriolic and mean spirited BB post such as his. I am continually amazed at the coarseness and pettiness of the personal attacks sometimes posted here. I am never quite sure of their motivation but they certainly reflect negativity that is not part of my world.

 

[num1mc]

I would like to try to 'rassle this doggy back to the original subject.

Freak, while I don't really boulder anymore, I cannot see anything bad with writing a bouldering guidebook. But I do think that if you attempt to include first ascent info, your errors and omissions will be huge.

I think that many who claim recent first bouldering ascents do so because they feel that the "new" problem is either too hard to have been done previously, or so obscure that no one could have possibly been there before. This I think is wrong. Levenworth has seen many very talented and far ranging boulderers, whose trace time has faded.

First the locals. Of course this includes Lee Cunningham and JY, but also Gordon, Mike Crosswaite, Paul Cook, the McNerthneys and others. These guys could boulder (especially Lee and Jim), and weren't afraid of a hike. Then there were the talented Sea-town dudes. John Nelson, Craig Olson, Monte Westlund, and Rick Graham were especially talented, and were doing very hard routes twenty years ago.

As far as masters of obscurity, the late Dave Anderson was the equal of Eric Zieche.

And lastly, I don't know if people remember how good Eric Thixton and Russ Erickson were. I climbed a ton with Russel, and he could hang on anything for ever. In 1980, he almost top roped City Park free. Russ was a pure climber, and could spend hours by himself hiking to and working on a henous problem, which he would probably refuse to rate. I still smile when I remember Russ pointing way above and to the side of Midnight, and telling me all about the great problems he did up there.

So Freak, go ahead and write your book, but don't try to include historical data, because you'll probably be wrong.

 

 

[freak]

ya dude your problably right. on the old skool tip. i guess I can only hope to show people where the rad stuff is cause as far as first accents go it will be brutal. some is better than none though; all the stupid v rateings will be wrong any way. i had illusions of makeing a book but it will be more like topos and pictures photocopied, and stapled. nic

[AlpineK]

888

[This message has been edited by AlpineK (edited 05-04-2001).]

[viktor]

just for the record, I think that pimp slap thing is the one I saw Mr Cilley climb in the early 90s. As I recall it had a slopey finish that gave him the most trouble. Dick is a different kinda guy, colorful and all that but calling him an asshole is really unfair.