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Posted

Running out of options for a moderate glacier-snow climb in the cascade all reports looking grim shocked.gif wonder any suggestion on what to do in the beginning of September?

I will be in Mount Baker vicinity doing fisher chimney first, on Mount Shuksan and then I will have 3 ½ days to spare

PS I have newbie on my rope team.

------------------

Neri Carmi

nericarmi@yahoo.com

[This message has been edited by Neri (edited 08-16-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Neri (edited 08-16-2001).]

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Posted

wopper you be right. i would say for the money it is the best glacier climb around. you don't have to waste so much time slogging up some crappy glacier on to have to slog back down it.

and if you do do it, i would say burgandy is much much much faster.

Posted

I have to second Sahale. I took an absolute beginner up the Quien Sabe route late last Sept. It was a piece of cake. Even with instruction on ice axe and crampon use, rope work, etc., plus walking down the arm side and down the road to the car, it was only ten hours car-to-car. One light axe each, aluminum crampons, and a thin 30-meter rope will suffice. I never felt the need for snow or ice pro. Kevin wanted to rap from the top, so we did one rap.

Look at N. Face of Maude too, and maybe the Entiat Icefall route on Maude depending on the strength of your partner.

Have fun.

John Sharp

Posted

Rearranging terms we have:

Ruth + snow = glacier = Eldorado

Pyramid = snowfieldglacier - snow^2field

As for Sahale, plenty of folks chicken out on the final scramble. <insert chicken graphic here> But I agree, you ought to be able to short rope your greatgrandma up to the ridge... probably easier if you wax the coffin first.

I wouldn't take weaklings up Daniel that late - doesn't that require a boat? You might as well do Clark heh heh heh...

Snowfield should go, but definitely a grunt. You'd do a lot of end-running, but the glacier is low angle, so ice won't scare anyone too much.

Silver Star is a day trip.

Views are pretty nice from Ruth, but it's hard to call it a glacier...

-t

 

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by philfort:

Ruth = GLACIER - SNOW

Pyramid/Snowfield = GLACIER - SNOW

Eldorado = GLACIER - SNOW

(M/1/2*3/4) + 12% = THANK YOU - 3 + (12*7) grin.gif

 

Posted

I would agree that Ruth isn't all that challenging. You should have enough time to easily couple it with Icy Peak, which is a little more interesting, but also easy. Plus, take the time to peer to the east (the Pickets) and soak up a nice bivy looking SW into Nooksack Cirque.

Posted

If you've got a beginner with you and you're in the Baker area, consider the West ridge of North twin Sister. The West ridge of South is good as well, but doesn't offer quite as high a value factor. Both peaks are scrambles (no rope required) but offer some of the best rock I've encountered anywhere. The peaks are located roughly between Baker and Bellingham. Overall the views aren't as good as Ruth but the climbing is 100% more fun.

GB

 

Posted

phil, you might be right. but it is about 10k times better then the ruth and eldo and snowfield aren't even in the baker area.

i second fishstick's recommendation of the north twin. wayyyyyyyy better route.

give it up on the boing ass glacier slogs.

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