RuMR Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 Catbirdseat's partner post got me to thinking/dreaming...where do benchmarks come from? It seems to me that ratings that used to/should be considered as a "benchmark" have now fallen into the "sandbag" category... So...let's hear yer benchmarks for various levels...I'm bored silly right now... Quote
chucK Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 What? So you can ridicule us because we think something is harder than you do? You first. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 (edited) I pull out my 1974? Ascent and use Bridwell's ratings... link Edited June 16, 2005 by Peter_Puget Quote
RuMR Posted June 16, 2005 Author Posted June 16, 2005 I think PP is on schedule... Chuck, the concept of a benchmark is pretty valid...not trying to ridicule anyone...but come on, look at index ratings, for example, compared to the exits and newer areas...compare those to yos...or seneca or the gunks...jeezus... Quote
selkirk Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 I pull out my 1974? Ascent and use Bridwell's ratings... link That's very helpful the those of us poor bastards who haven't climbed in Yos. yet. Care to throw up some appropriate local benchmarks? Otherwise i'll have to declare Air Guitar a solid, sustained, 10a Quote
chucK Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 I agree. Give us some benchmarks. 5.8? 5.9? 5.10? 5.6? I think Beckey has some benchmarks in the Brown Beckey. I think Outer Space is one of his benchmarks for 5.9. Quote
dberdinka Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 Not that long ago Outer Space was rated 5.8+, Classic Crack was rated 5.8 amd Meat Grinder was rated 5.9. Quote
Dru Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 Mikey's history of the evolution of Squamish grades Quote
RuMR Posted June 16, 2005 Author Posted June 16, 2005 5.8...how's about the third pitch of central pillar?? right side of cookie? 5.9 how's about 2nd pitch of reed's? (now go and compare that to Reptiles... that's pretty much 5.6 or 5.7 really) godzilla? what about something like princely? (trying to stay local here a bit)...how about OS 5.10? Split maybe, what about BOC or most of thin fingers? compare that to exit 5.10's and you will see why i'm just rolling on the ground sometimes...for face climbs...i don't know, maybe wedding day, stoners, or how's about bbq? Quote
counterfeitfake Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 This reminds me of something I encountered at Leavenworth this weekend- what is 5.8+ supposed to mean? Our theory was that it meant... 5.8. Quote
RuMR Posted June 16, 2005 Author Posted June 16, 2005 Not that long ago Outer Space was rated 5.8+, Classic Crack was rated 5.8 amd Meat Grinder was rated 5.9. pretty soon they'll all be rated 5.12+ Quote
Dru Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 but it's a 5.8 in the top of the grade... AUS Grade 16 not AUS Grade 15 Quote
MCash Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 Some of the older Castle Rock climbs seem like good benchmarks. 5.4 - Saber and Midway 5.7 (Original Beckey Rating) - Angel Crack 5.9 - Crack of Doom Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 smith: Peking: 5.8 Moonshine Dihedral: 5.9 Cruel Sister: 10a Badfinger: 10b Nine Gallon Buckets: 10c Moons of Pluto: 10d Quote
chucK Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 Which one's don't belong? 5.4: GNS, Tooth South Face, Midway 5.7: Diedre, Angel Crack, Spiderman 5.9: Moonshine Dihedral, Outer Space, Godzilla, Crack of Doom Quote
John Frieh Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 smith: Peking: 5.8 Moonshine Dihedral: 5.9 Cruel Sister: 10a Badfinger: 10b Nine Gallon Buckets: 10c Moons of Pluto: 10d Word. 2nd pitch of Zebra is another nod for 10a. Both pitches of Peking are benchmark 5.8. 11a Lions Chair, Zebra Direct 11b Wartley's Revenge 11c Strawberry Blonde Quote
Peter_Puget Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 wartley's is 10d max... agreed And while we are at it...that Babies route is only 5.11 Quote
jdog Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 Rumr's boss here! I think a benchmark for rumr would be trying to figure out how to get some work done around here. This has to be pushing 5.14 for rumr. Now get back to work! Quote
RuMR Posted June 16, 2005 Author Posted June 16, 2005 you finish those wall calc's yet? THE MANAGER HAS SPOKEN! Quote
Peter_Puget Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 crackbabies? I think so - left side of a gulley -a much better 5.11 just to the left Quote
mneagle Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 I was told on my first trip to Yosemite that the second pitch of Bishops Terrace was considered "The 5.8" that was used when devising the Yosemite decimal system. I have often wondered what the other Yosemite benchmarks are. Anyone know? Quote
Peter_Puget Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 I was told on my first trip to Yosemite that the second pitch of Bishops Terrace was considered "The 5.8" that was used when devising the Yosemite decimal system. I have often wondered what the other Yosemite benchmarks are. Anyone know? That story is unlikely to be true given that the YDS was really developed in So Cal => TDS. Quote
mneagle Posted June 16, 2005 Posted June 16, 2005 I like this explanation the best... Subdivisions of class five climbing In Mountaineering, Freedom of the Hills, author Ed Peters explains the subdivisions of class 5: "The experienced climber, having accomplished or attempted free climbs of varying degrees of difficulty in the YDS class 5 range, gains an understanding of the level of difficulty involved. To the beginner, however, these ratings are simply a set of numbers, understandably, easy if rated 5.0 and impossible if rated 5.13. To provide a slightly better understanding within the class for the beginner the following tongue-in-cheek description is provided: 5.0 to 5.4 There are two hand- and two footholds for every move; the holds become progressively smaller as the number increases. 5.5 to 5.6 The two hand- and two footholds are there, obvious to the experienced, but not necessarily so to the beginner. 5.7 The move is missing one hand- or foothold. 5.8 The move is missing two holds of the four, or missing only one but is very strenuous. 5.9 The move has only one reasonable hold which may be for either a foot or a hand. 5.10 No hand- or footholds. The choices are to pretend a hold is there, pray a lot, or go home. 5.11 After thorough inspection you conclude this move is obviously impossible; however, occasionally someone actually accomplishes it. Since there is nothing for a handhold, grab it with both hands. 5.12 The surface is as smooth as glass and vertical. No one has really ever made this move, although a few claim they have. 5.13 This is identical to 5.12 except it is located under overhanging rock." Quote
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