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corvallisclimb

[TR] El Capitan- Salathe 6/5/2005

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Climb: El Capitan-Salathe

 

Date of Climb: 6/5/2005

 

Trip Report:

I helped my friend Steve Schneider do a free ascent of the Salathe. We spent two nights on the wall, we had planned to spend three nights but we got caught up with cragging and such. Steve onsighted every pitch untill the two 13 pitches on the headwall wich he speed/aid climbed through due to fading light and need to get off the wall. All in all a great time was had by the both of us. Perfect weather in the valley for my time spent there, and I didnt get tooled by any rangers.

 

here are some pictures:

 

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Gear Notes:

clean wall rack

 

Approach Notes:

short as hell

Edited by corvallisclimb

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Sweet. I keep forgetting that "speed climbing" is a euphemism for "French-freeing" as well as for "running up volcanoes".

 

Guiding a family with two seven year-olds sounds like a nightmare.

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looking at those pics makes it hard to sit in my cubicle.. great job

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rob's symbol is immoral and illegal in most civilized portions of the world and would definitely involve me losing my current job, were i to be so inclined

 

that said, for john holmes it'd be more like:

8=========D

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is that steve shipoopy you climbed with?

someone please explain rbw's pic to the man! yellaf.gif

 

yes it is, i understand its a dick but besides that i guess i dont get it from there

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It means I got wood looking at those pics of the big rock.

 

No slur was intended against you nor any criticisms towards yourself or Mr. Schneider.

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I guess nobody has ever accused climbers of being good spellars (Muffy), but if you are going to talk about a climber as your friend you should at least spell his name right as it is Shipoopi and Schneider.......

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Steve onsighted every pitch untill the two 13 pitches on the headwall

 

Seeing as how S.S. has climbed Salathe many times before and belayed Yuji during Yuji's onsight attempt of a few years back, "onsight" is pushing it. Maybe "freed" is the term you are looking for?

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i dont think he was the one belaying him. he had never tryed to free the pitches above el cap spire, so mabey i was wrong with that statement but who cares non the less.

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I guess nobody has ever accused climbers of being good spellars (Muffy), but if you are going to talk about a climber as your friend you should at least spell his name right as it is Shipoopi and Schneider.......

 

i stand corrected, but in my defense shipoopi wasn't on webster.com. tongue.gif i saw him give a slide show somewhere a few years back. he opened with a bunch of dumb blonde jokes - himself being a blond. funny guy.

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