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Posted

Climb: Mt Adams-North Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 5/24/2005

 

Trip Report:

My brother and I drove out to the Divide Camp trailhead on Monday. Our orginal intent was to check out the Adams Glacier, if that wasn't looking good then over to the Lava Glacier Headwall, and if all else failed go up the North Ridge. After we arrived at the base of the mountain (the approach is solid, boot tracks most of the way, and only like three postholes) the Adams Glacier didn't look in for us. Climbers with a little more experience would probably love it, but this being our first big trip of the year we decided to move over towards the ridge and headwall. We set up camp, and enjoyed some good food and jokes before crawling into our bags. We woke up at 3am with the intention of getting the route started under the full moon. When we came out of our tent, the view was unlike anything I have ever seen. Adams, Helens, and Rainier were lit up like beacons by the moon. Probably one of the most incredible things I have ever seen. We started over towards the Headwall, but crossed the North Ridge at a point where we would have had to drop pretty far down to get back on the Lava Glacier. The wind was blowing pretty hard, and my watch was reading 0 degrees celcius, and that was on my wrist. So, we decided to take the easy way out and just continue up the ridge. I have descended the ridge later in the summer when it is the dirty choss pile, but right now is it covered in snow and actually was pretty fun to climb I thought. We moved on up to the summit rim, then the demoralizing summit hike across that white desert. Getting back down was easy, and we hiked out and made it home in time for dinner. A great trip, though I got pretty sunburnt.

 

Gear Notes:

We only needed crampons and an ice ax.

 

Approach Notes:

The trail had snow over a lot of it, but again was easy to pass over. Getting to both the Killen Creek and Divide Trail can be a little muddy, the road (2329) is in good enough shape, but I was happy to have a higher clearance pick up truck.

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Posted

Thanks for the report. Sounds like a good trip. thumbs_up.gif I am jealous of the people who are able to get out in this great weather this week. Of course, it is supposed to crap out for the weekend. Do you have any pictures. I have been thinking about trying the Adams Glacier.

Posted

great timing with the TR, I am considering the same route next weekend (not mem day). I hope to attempt the Adams glacier but will decide once I get there...no pics??

Posted

I am one of the few people without a digital camera, so I have to get my pictures put on a CD then posted up here. I'll try to have them by tomorrow for those of you looking at the Adams Glacier. We heard a lot of stuff falling up there during the night, so we probably need some nice cold weather to help settle it out.

Posted

You definitely get some of the best views from that side of the mountain. I think this time of the year, that North Ridge is one of the neatest climbs you can do in the Cascades without a rope. Nice job not getting lost this time the_finger.gifwave.gif

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Great TR. I did that one by myself last June 17, the day before my 41st birthday, in a day door-to-door from Bellevue. We were up there the previous weekend (June 12-13) to do the Adams Glacier, and camped at one of the moraine camps below that route. A storm blew in Sat. night and hammered us. The same storm nearly killed four guys on Lib. Ridge (recall the long TR) and did kill the two guys behind them (from MT) who were likely blown off the ridge. I later met one of the four who survived the storm on the summit (ER Doc Tom Burke from CO -- we were at the same wedding in late June in Leavenworth last year -- small world).

 

By contrast, my solo day out on the NR was wonderful and sunny. It's a great route when it has snow on it. Not hard, and very pretty.

 

Way to go,

 

John Sharp

Posted

I'm planning to take two people from my work for a trip up the south ridge, which will be their first experience with an ice axe and crampons. How do you think first timers would feel on the north ridge route at this time of year? Nelson mentions short, steep steps along the route- how serious are these?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Just returned from the NR. After enduring three days of terrible weather, we decided to bail after watching a slide from 11,000 come all the way past 9,000. So much for an easy ascent. Should be clear now. Good luck. Looks like snow will be up there through July.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Hasn't it been sunny the past 3 days? confused.gif

Where did you see a slide come down?

 

There are pics of the serac fall/slide path in the Adams Glacier 7/3/05 TR. We saw it too. it fell almost 3000' in 45 seconds.

 

Fox, was your group camped by lake 7505'? we ran into a lot of people camped up there.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Fox, was your group camped by lake 7505'? we ran into a lot of people camped up there.

 

We hiked in on Sunday and out on Monday. We talked to two guys while we were hiking in and they were hiking out (they had climbed Adams Gl that day I think), but other than that, we didn't see any other climbers. Saw one guy with a couple of little rat dogs... pomeranians or some shit. That wasn't you was it? yellaf.gif Just kidding. Anyway, it was nice; we had the whole N. side of the mountain to ourselves. The guys we talked to said it had been crazy busy the day before. thumbs_up.gif

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