Canadian Rockies still in condition?

[Mtnclimber]

I am desprite to climb. With the bad weather in the northwest it seems like rock climbing is out other than taking a flight to escape the rain.

 

Is it worth driving up to the Canadian Rockies to do some ice climbing or are conditions getting to warm?

 

Thanks for the info.

[Alex]

http://www.live-the-vision.com/wwwboard/index.shtml

[Colin]

Just got back last night. It is certainly starting to get quite warm, but tons of climbs are still in fat. Anything south facing is out, but most climbs that are north-facing or in deep clefts still seem to be good. The alpine conditions are just now starting to get good up there.

[glassgowkiss]

wht did you do?

[Colin]

Spent a day warming up on Carlsberg and Pilsner, and then drove up the Icefields. Did the Strain on a bitter cold day. I got first degree frostbite on all ten fingers, and also my plastic boot and the plastic sheet in my pack both cracked. I spent 4-5 days out of commission, hangin' in Canmore. Then we went up to the Stanley Headwall 2 days in a row, to do Nemesis and Suffer Machine. I'd never been up there before, and both were really cool routes. Went back up to the Icefields and did Kitty Hawk and Polar Circus. By some freak-of-nature good-luck karma thing, we were joined in bivying at the Weeping Wall pullout by a van full of 6 hot 20-22 year-old Canadian and Australian chicks. I could hardly believe it. I didn't send that "route" unfortunately, but it was fun to stay up to midnight drinking wine in a cozy van with them. Went for a quick jaunt up Cool Spring on the way back to Seattle.

[swaterfall]

So let me see if I got this...

 

you tagged Carlsburg Column, Pilsner Pillar, The Andromeda Strain, Nemesis, The Suffer Machine, Kitty Hawk and Polar Circus in the span of how long? Two or Three weeks?

 

that rules

[glassgowkiss]

A-strain. that's a good tick. now young skywalker- don't get any frostbite before going to high peaks.

how was suffer machine- did you do that bolt ladder free?

[Colin]

Thanks, swaterfall. Indeed you got it right, although my partner, Freddie, also went and did Kronenburg one of the days that I was nursing my fingers. Two weeks.

 

But seriously, those Australian and Canadian chicks were hot!

[Colin]

Yeah, I know, you ole' clownpuncher (cool pictures from Cutthroat, by the way). I was sorta pissed at myself cause I might get to do some cold climbing this summer, and I hope my fingers aren't still extra-sensitive by then.

 

By the way, Bob, Catherine in Canmore actually likes your sense of humor. She was on French Reality while you and Raphael were doing Nightmore on Wolf Street, and said you were funny. If only she knew about the sheep...

 

We didn't do the bolt ladder free, but we didn't use aiders or daisys. We drytooled partly on the rock, and partly on bolt hangers.

[specialed]

Good to hear you got some hard climbing in with Freddie before the trip to the big cold mountains. Last time I saw Freddie was on the Kahiltna - he was waiving his cock'n'balls in front of some domumentary maker's camera. Anyway, nice work. I'm jealous as shit.

[glassgowkiss]

"But seriously, those Australian and Canadian chicks were hot! "

"If only she knew about the sheep..."

beeeeeeeeeee

[dberdinka]

By some freak-of-nature ... we were joined ... by a van full of ... hot ... Canadian... chicks. I could hardly believe it.

 

I don't believe it either, I think Colin spent the last two weeks reading Alpinist 10 a few to many times.

[Alex]

the odds are actually pretty good, canadian chix are hott!

 

I love the aussie lilt, too

[Marko]

Holy shit youth, your 2 week holiday was more successful than my entire 25 year climbing career!

 

Nice job up there!

 

Any photos from A-strain?

[scott_johnston]

Boys:

 

I can attest to virtually all of Colin's affore mentioned exploits (except, alas, his near onsight/redpoint of the van load of girls) while he vacationed in the frozen north. He and Freddie had the locals talking. While I didn't get to climb with him I did have the pleasure of contributing to the delinquency of a (near) minor. Colin; you have to learn to sip that $60 Scotch, boy! We shared the gracious comforts of Chez Blanchard for several nights.

 

While Freddie and Colin were on Nemesis. Steve and I were climbing at the other end of the Stanley headwall on French Reality (is that an oxymoron or what?) I have attached a photo of The Boy Wonder (Steve that is) on Pitch 2 (M7) of FR.

 

Steve and I tried A-Strain a few days after Colin and Freddie. Perhaps due to our age and being a bit wiser (or maybe just bigger wuses) we bailed at the schrund in the face of -30C temps and high winds which were making the route a spindrift hell. We had hoped to take advantage of the youths' hard work of clearing out the snow mushrooms...but alas my toes are still numb. Good work Colin on a great trip.

 

Steve and I even went back to the A-Strain a few days later but didn't get farther then the parking lot at 2AM due to very high winds. Instead we wisely retreated to bed and arose late to climb Curtain Call which was in great shape according to locals.

 

Afterward SH and I climbed in K-Country on very wet, almost falling down, ice that wouldn't take screws.

 

The alpine climbs were not in good shape in general due to unsettled weather. I would echo Colins observations that the ice may stay good onthe N aspects and deep clefts especially up near the Ice Fields.

 

The good news is the the skiing at Rogers Pass on the way home was as good as it was in Feb!

 

Scott

 

Steve on P2 of French Reality

Edited April 13, 2005 by scott_johnston

[JayB]

Jesus. Where in the hell did all of this talent come from? I'm not sure whether to be inspired or depressed by this discussion. I guess I can take solace in the fact that I can get just as gripped on a WI3+/IV- 4 as you guys can get on this stuff.

 

Sketched on WI3! - Woohooo !

Edited April 5, 2005 by JayB

[glassgowkiss]

hey scott, good to hear you are climbing!

While Freddie and Colin were on Nemesis. Steve and I were climbing at the other end of the Stanley headwall on French Reality (is that an oxymoron or what?) I have attached a photo of The Boy Wonder (Steve that is) on Pitch 2 (M7) of FR.

- i think that pitch is more like M5 at the most.

[scott_johnston]

Bob;

I was just going off of what the guide book said. It seemed stout but controlably doable (and very fun with a top rope) to me. Steve hiked it with some fairly sketchy gear in places. I have only been on three M7 rated pitches in my life so I am no real judge.

Whaddya mean glad to hear I'm climbing!! I may be old but I ain't done in yet. As long as I can get my walker to the base of the route I usually do OK.

Take care,

Scott

[Alex]

As long as I can get my walker to the base of the route I usually do OK.

 

whew, now I don't feel as dorky with my walker knowing there are others...