JayB Posted November 3, 2002 Share Posted November 3, 2002 I set an TR anchor for some friends very much like JK describes. Once. It was my second or third lead outside, and on my two previous leads I'd the anchors included chains that I simply threaded the ropes through if my friends wished to TR the climbs (wasn't thinking about wear and tear on the chains at that point either). I topped out on this particular climb and found that their were no chains. No problem, I'll just clip a locker to each hanger, loop a couple of runners between each hanger, then clip three biners to the runners with the gates opposed over the top of the runners, lower off, and all will be well. Both of my friends TR'd the route, then I headed up the route again to retrieve my gear and rap down. When I looked at the TR set-up I had installed again I immediately recognized my mistake and felt sick. I knew that in the unlikely event that one of the bolts serving as the anchor blew, all of the biners, the rope, and one of my friends would have gone careening to the ground. My negligence could have very well killed, paralyzed, or maimed one of my friends. I felt so ashamed that once I rapped down I immediately explained what I had done wrong to my friends, apologized, and said I hoped that they could forgive me, but I'd understand if they couldn't. They put their faith in me and I blew it. Thanfully luck was on my side, but even after several years I think about what might have happened if it hadn't been. My friends trusted me with their lives and I blew it, big time. I vowed that I would never let that happen again, and if it did I would quit climbing altogether. I try to remember that lesson often, and keep it in mind every time I set an anchor that someone else's life depends on. I got lucky once, but I have done everything in my power - including obsessing over anchor set-ups, setting up c-z systems in the yard, etc - to insure that luck never, ever plays a role in determining whether or not someone lives or dies as a result of an anchor I've set. [ 11-02-2002, 06:09 PM: Message edited by: JayB ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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