Ice Axes

[JonMain]

I'm looking for an ice axe for general mountaineering. No ice climbing! I've been looking at the Grivel Eagle, BD Raven, and the SMC Shuksan. Anyone use these? Comments please.

[Blake]

If for occasional use and "i might encounter some snow" get the CAMP XLA 210 (8oz) for general alpine climbs, BD raven Pro (13 oz) and for consistent galcier slogs, that grivel eagle (19oz).

[foolscongress]

raven

[Dru]

charlet snowalker

[Dr_Crash]

I haven't used any of these. I have been very happy with my Grivel Air Tech Racing ax. The Raven Pro (BD) is a bit lighter and has a real spike but I find the pick of the Grivel to be nicer.

 

I read an ax test that mentionned the Grivel you're showing and while it was the most comfortable to hold, the author mentionned that the molded cover didn't stand up much to hammering the ax into hard snow... (No surprise, just something you might not be thinking of.)

 

drC

[JonMain]

I read an ax test that mentionned the Grivel you're showing and while it was the most comfortable to hold, the author mentionned that the molded cover didn't stand up much to hammering the ax into hard snow... (No surprise, just something you might not be thinking of.)

 

No, I hadn't thought of that, thanks.

 

I've been doing alpine climbs, Oregon volcanos mostly. I've been using the 'cane' and 'stake' positions mostly since I haven't been on anything that was much more 45 degrees yet. For that reason I'm partial to the more aggressive spike like that on the Eagle or Shuksan. The Snowalker and Raven spikes look short and fat compared to the Eagle or Shuksan. Any thoughts on that? Perhaps I'm using a stake position in a situation where a low dagger would be more appropriate.

 

Example:

When I did Hood this week I accidentally chose the left gully after reaching the top of the hogsback instead of the correct gully to the right (the actual 'Pearly Gates'). The gully quickly narrowed into a 45ish degree ice ramp a few feet wide with baseball sized chunks whizzing by - something I'd never dealt with before. In a pinch I used the stake position while bringing my feet up and occasionally chopping steps. Dull rental crampons and axes suck! It was sketchy, now I know why everyone goes to the right...

[Dr_Crash]

I haven't had issues using my ax with the yucky cut-off shaft spike in a stake position. But then maybe I didn't meet the right kind of very hard snow.

 

drC

[Dru]

Actually if I was going to be buying a general mountaineering axe now I would get a DMM Cirque or Grivel air Tech Racing with the slightly curved shaft. When going dagger up a long snowslope your hands stay dry almost like you had Quarks

 

When I bought a Snowalker two years ago it was because I already had bent-shaft ice tools and I wanted a walking stick. The Snowalker was lighter than the Raven and had a steel pick and spike unlike the Camp superlight. Ive used it off and on for those 2 years and am really pleased with it. I did have to file down the sharp edges on the head at the shaft to make it more hand- and glove-friendly

[kurthicks]

i've got an REI mountain axe, which is the same as the Shuksan, for sale in the Yard Sale .

[JonMain]

I haven't had issues using my ax with the yucky cut-off shaft spike in a stake position. But then maybe I didn't meet the right kind of very hard snow.

 

I was on ice at the time. Gave the anchor position a try but the pick was very dull and wouldnt bite... it mostly shattered the ice. Stake postion or cross body were the options.

 

Actually if I was going to be buying a general mountaineering axe now I would get a DMM Cirque or Grivel air Tech Racing with the slightly curved shaft. When going dagger up a long snowslope your hands stay dry almost like you had Quarks

 

Dru, not too sure how often I'll need to use the pick. Most of my climbing will be in the cane and stake posistions for awhile. I looked at that Cirque, badass to be sure, but wouldn't the rubber grip and curved shaft make it a bit unweildy when using the spike end?

 

Cheers!

[Dru]

i dont think so, the rubber grip just makes it nicer to hold onto (but a bit heavier), and the curved shaft is an advantage when in dagger mode and no disadvantage in cane mode (i manage to plunge quarks with pinky rests (but not full on leashless grips) pretty easily on most snow types). you can always cut the rubber off to save weight

[Jeff_T]

I use a BD Raven, been pretty happy with it so far. I haven't climbed any real steep routes with it yet, just stuff like Easton on Mt Baker.

 

Wouldn't a curved shaft or rubber grip make it difficult to use for checking for crevasses?

 

Jeff

[Dru]

no, you try driving a Quark in and you see there is no difference. but a rubber grip does add some weight.

[rhyang]

Actually if I was going to be buying a general mountaineering axe now I would get a DMM Cirque or Grivel air Tech Racing

 

minor detail: probably referring to the air tech evo (curved shaft). T-rated, so a bit heavier, but have used it on an alpine ice gully with a second tool. Speaking of which, here's some more wackiness.

[pzack]

I really like the BD Raven. I've used it on everything from Glacier Walk-ups, to AI3. It's pretty light, it has stood up to heavy use, and it's got a comfortable handle.

 

Its best use is in the cane position. The flat-top handle will spare your hand, so that you'll be more likely to keep a solid self-belay. It's OK in dagger position, though maybe not the best.

[dbconlin]

I just picked up a Grivel Air Tech Evo, slightly curved below the head. Haven't used it yet (will this weekend), but I think the design looks very versatile from mountaineering to moderate technical lines where you may use it as a tool, paired with a shorter technical tool. It weighs, I think, about the same as a Raven (not Raven pro, which is lighter), which is around 16 oz. ONly drawback...Expensive.

[Don_Serl]

I did have to file down the sharp edges on the head at the shaft to make it more hand- and glove-friendly

 

good god, it's spreading...

 

cheers,