Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night

[geoff]

Work. Still slight residual pain in hand but nothing to prevent me from hurting it more.

 

TR - well, it is not my forte and this probably ain't the place but way out in the middle of the Umpqua National forest is Acker Rock. It is about 5 hours from PDX, if you don't go through Silverton, Staton and then back to Salem before getting on I-5 - Kyle?.

 

This placed my bro and I at Green Burrito in Eugene around 9pm. We made it to camp outside of Tiller, OR by midnight and slept near the trailhead.

 

A short hike to the base of the Peregrine Traverse and we were climbing by 8:00am. 11 or 12 pitches later we were on top. All by 1:00pm. There is a lookout tower on the summit along with the coolest crapper ever -well my buddy saw a floating one on a lake in Cali-pretty cool also. I was alright but Kyle checked it out. Photos to follow.

 

There was also a geocache and summit register. We signed the register and examined cache. I left four Cheetos but took nothing. Then an easy walk back to the car.

 

After a much needed bath in a nearby stream we were off to summit the Old Man of the North Umpqua. However, the road was closed and offlimits. After considering swimming or walking across the river or borrowing a boat to ferry us and our gear we decided McKinley Rock does not look too far away. And, if you are a bird that is probably true.

 

But, if your in an old Volvo it takes about an hour and half, if you have proper directions. We didn't but they are posted on the Greg Orton website and there are signs pointing the way. Even so we could not believe we were headed the right way. But after an hour of driving up a gravel road dodging big chunks of rock, and hitting a few, we arrived at a water basin with no sight of the Rock.

 

However, upon closer inspection of the Longridge Trailhead we noticed warnings on a sign that actually meant something to us. Bring extra water and two ropes. Well, we weren't going carry two ropes but knew we were on to something. So we set up camp eventhough I was not that interested in sleeping in my tent because we had just seen a bear. Sure, I know they are out there but to see one, near our camp in the evening seemed to increase my fear.

 

Anyhow, no mauling and the next morning after another short hike, we were surprised to find ourselves at the base of a 400ft chunk of rock. Quickly finding our intended route, we set out on Easy Street. Easy? Sure, but there is some serious distance between the last bolt below the P1 anchor and the previous one. Be prepared to free solo. Otherwise, on top before too long. Again, signed the summit register, read notes on the new rap route but opted for a tree and walk back around to the start.

 

Climbed first pitch of Testosterone Monkey and was surprised to find no rap. So, we added a quicklink to one bolt and a piece of webbing we had cleaned off the summit to the other and made our own.

 

Back to the car, to the N. Umpqua for bathing and back to PDX by 11pm Sat.

 

Number of other climbers - 0. No people at all at the climbing areas.

 

Finally, not to start a war or anything, but the routes were protected with fixed anchors, except for a #3 Cam placement high on the Traverse.

[billcoe]

I was looking for this thread the other day...

Bill, I saw some more oak by the traverse wall the other day too.

If you don't get to it, I'll take it out.

Geoff, I'll try to make it Thurday...I'll let you know. (hope you feel better TR?)

 

Hi PJ:

 

I suspect I will run out so that one is yours:-)

 

They moved the thread to here last week.

[Crackman]

Hey Bill, I'll be out tonight ~5pm to help with the spraying and belaying.

 

[billcoe]

Thanks for clipping back the ivy on the trail at the top of Breakfast cracks Tim. It has a twofold benefit: less likely someone steps off the cliff and dies, keeps the English ivy off the climbing routes on the cliff. That shit is a bear to get off rock.

[DavidHiers]

Hey Geoff,

Hope the hand gets better...

 

Are the books in the Rock Climbing Western Oregon series any good for that area?

[geoff]

Sounds good. Let me know if you can make it.

[geoff]

If those are the Greg Orton books then they're alright. There have been a lot of updates and such and I think there is a new series of books.

 

Recent trip reports, not like mine, seem to have the more detailed info.

 

Let me know if you have something specific in mind.

 

 

[hemp22]

 

Edit: Yes, I think the Western Oregon series does cover some stuff in that area.

Edited August 8, 2007 by hemp22

[DavidHiers]

Thanks.... I just ordered the set of 3, the ink won't be dry on one of them for another month or so.

 

I know what you mean about the TRs, some are real jewels.

[geoff]

Anyone headed today?

 

 

[billcoe]

need a belay Tuesday, should be easy stuff as I sliced my index finger open. Good belayer only.

 

[John Frieh]

how late are you going to stay out there?

[kevbone]

We are going to Jimmy cliff on Friday......The O!

[billcoe]

Johnny, last night when I posted that, I had tried to finish off a neighbors wine cellar.

 

Today, sobering reality - that lil slice on my finger hurts and I'm takin a rest day (*cough wussie*cough * wussie).

 

Kev, love to - but fridays are my worst days for free time.

[Crackman]

Come-on Bill, toothpick would be the perfect climb for that finger!

 

It won't be the same without you but I'd still like to get in some laps tonight. Anyone else interested?

[John Frieh]

headed to beacon about 4 today

 

How about rocky on thursday?

 

Bill: my hands are still healing (again) so you and I should compliment each other just fine

[billcoe]

 

Bill: my hands are still healing (again) so you and I should compliment each other just fine

 

Sounds great! What do you want to get on? I think I'd rather be on cracks than face, but if its just us 2 though, we could do Phylynx and the offwidth to the right of it.

 

Tim: sorry I missed Toothpick on Tuesday!

 

Maybe we can get a headcount for Thurs?

[John Frieh]

I'll be there w/ a rope and some TR material... what time?

 

I wonder if Knottygirl will stop slack lining for the afternoon and come out and join us

[Knottygirl]

hmmm tomorrow? possibly. and ahh i haven't slacklined in awhile! i wouldn't get there till after 5:30 or so...where would ya'll be?

[billcoe]

Where ever you want....:-) I'll most likely get there @ 5:30 as well. It's your turn to call it Bri. I haven't been on Tiger paws and Dreamweaver in a while. Since I cleaned off the route on the buttress - Dreamweaver now goes to the ground via that start and not off the tree 25' up on the wall, but I see that the great handhold that use to be off the ground there has already been pulled off:-(

 

Whatever is good for you. If it's just the 3 of us: how about Emotional Rescue as an alternative to Tiger paws/DW, and-or if others show, maybe all those routes on Silver Bullet or Breakfast Cracks where we can accommodate everyone?

[Knottygirl]

sounds good. i won't know forsure till tomorrow if i'll be there...(i probally will). I haven't done too much climbing this summer so I'm a bit rusty but will gladly flail on any of the tough climbs!

 

I remember liking emotional rescue!

[Crackman]

Didn't see anyone on Tue, so went up top and traversed until failure - doesn't take very long.

 

Hope to make it out on Thur.

[billcoe]

Well, sorry all these pussies canceled on ya Tim, but I will say that my pissy excuse is that my finger hurts. In fact, both ping pong and typing sucks now. (spoken sotto voice -very high and in a whiney sound)

 

In fact at work, Kev broke my damn my unbroken streak of wins and I'm like 2 of 6 today. Thats cause I fell off a stump and ran a rock through part of my hand out climbing, and then later sliced a finger the other night trying to notch some arrows for the lil fellas and had the blade part of the knife upside down...sigh...(ok it was getting dark and I was drunk a bit).

 

Melisa is talking about getting out with us tomorrow, as is John, Ujahn, me, you, and Bri as a minimum.

 

We should accommodate Mel with some easy routes and John and you with some harder ones ...I'm thinking Silver Bullet.

 

You guys can take turns trying and falling off of Glenns route direct if you want something hard. Maybe 5.12 something?

 

I reset the first bolt and tried to dig a small flat platform for you. Folks will be less likely to eat dirt if they miss the second clip:-) I want to hear what you think the grade really is, cause it's hard to say anymore for me.

 

As you know from laughing at me last week. I cannot even get up White rabbit buttress with tension on toprope. I've been climbing mostly unrated stuff lately, so I'm curious what it really is cause I don't get out that much on real stuff.

 

Silver Bullet good?

 

 

[Knottygirl]

word

[rmncwrtr]

I'll be there. Just need to know where The only place I've been is up top for the traverses.