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John Frieh

Alpiners Anonymous: PDX dry tool night

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3) maybe we all too busy throwning down on the alpine?

 

for cragg'n, this be the season for beacon anyhow...

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Next session is Thursday 5:45 - ? Will be climbing near/on toothpick.

 

If anyone wants to climb or drytool tonight (Wednesday) give me a call 541-231-2062

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Climb on.

 

Works for me. Anyone care to show up early and mark the territory so to speak? That little area of hell on earth can be a bit crowded.

 

Climb on Garth

 

Climb on Wayne.

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I was down there last night and like Bill said, it was very crowded; in fact every route had a rope on it and I counted a total of 11 different climbers (including myself and non-internet-spraying partner)

 

Silverbullet is suprisingly clean for this time of year with very little chalk, Last Tango is pretty well greased up as is Fandango and the little trad line in the corner. Still one of my favorite spots at the butte.

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On Monday, it was amazingly empty.

we didn't see any other climbers anywhere at the butte.

there was only one truck parked there when we arrived, and even it was gone by the time we left at ~7:00pm (my partner had to bail early on Monday, and how he's completely flaked out on me for today). I guess everyone's on a Tues-Thurs schedule...

Do you guys usually climb at silver bullet or toothpick?

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We aren't on a schedule per say... many of us regulars just climb whenever someone else is available... hence this thread.

 

If anyone is looking to climb any night in/around PDX I would encourage them to post in this thread... I think enough people watch it that you will find a partner...

 

And where do we usually climb? All over Rocky... in fact I don't think we have climbed at Silver Bullet yet this summer. Gotta mix it up to clean the dirt off all the routes laugh.gif

 

And after climbing a lot this summer with Bill and seeing all Rocky has to offer I doubt I will ever find a day at Rocky where all the good climbs are taken... yet another reason to come out!

 

Hope to see some new people out there Thursday! wazzup.gif

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Yup, just Like Nolse said. We were heading to Crack Warrior Tue but had a new person show up from out of town who's ability was taken into account so we took an immeditate screechingly hard left turn off the pre-planned track and did something else. (Course it's always a pleasure when they say they only want to climb up to hard 10's) A good time was had by all and I'm still sore (could be an age thing too).

 

Seems like we've rarely repeated a route (although we have), but still haven't made it to CWarrior or Free bird (Wisdom Tooth in the book), 2 of the most primo crack routes there, so they're most likly dirtier than sh*t. I had noticed that the route to the left of CW, (ie if you take smears for fears and head right instead of straight up you wind up at the top of the tree on Crack Warrior with some unusually nice Butte face climbing on the way) had most likely not been climbed since I'd done it while ago, the bolts and chains were way rusty, and it had moss @ 1 inch thick all over it from inactivity. Stay with me I'm drinking wine and heading to the point.

 

So, it's a conundrum which more people won't solve, but those who are there spreading out will. Soooo, don't take this the wrong way, but in the past, if I see a big herd I don't stop. I'd rather rope solo, free solo or boulder, by myself (mood dependant). Last year for instance, I once counted almost 20 cars of a Cascade climbers pub club day all clustered at the upper area (Video/Silver Bullet), and the best routes had nobody, I mean nobody on them. Anywhere. Except me. So if there's a herd you will not see me. Sorry, and it's not personal, I've yet to meet someone on CC.com I didn't like, although the woman who was pissed cause I started yelling for more beer that time at Alameda Brew Pub bigdrink.gif is lower on my list than everyone else, I mean, WTF WAS the beer? JFHC! You know who you are too, don't make me name names.

 

I'd tie in with any of you anytime. But not 20 of you on the same day. So if you don't see me, it's only cause there are too many of you in a pack.

 

Need a refill...........cya thus or later....... bigdrink.gif

 

BTW, The large block at the top of Lord of the Jungle or Tiger Pause, the 2 routes 5.9-10.a wherein you hang half way down the cliff loc. @ 60 feet west of video, is loose. You can sit on top of it, but if you push on it: it will fall and if it hits anybody it will kill them. Fuenos knows this block too. We were there @ 2weeks ago. I've been thinking of pushing it off myself with a 5 foot prybar, but don't want to do it without 100 percent assurance of a clear groundfall landing. I'ts too far and forested for a single person to get that assurance. I'm thinking that enlisting helpers with walkie talkies to help spot unwary civilians below is the ticket. Maybe next time it rains? I'll push, you talk? I can point this killer out on Thurs just ask.

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Say Bill, now I know you've been hittin' the vino a bit, but since you're calling folks out I just got to say - there wasn't anyone at that table that night who thought it appropriate to get the waitress' attention from accross the room with a full on, two-fingered whistle. hahaha.gif

 

Anyways, climb on, eh?

 

bigdrink.gif

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Guys, I feel compelled to ask... why Rocky, anyway?

I mean, why the facination with the syringes, used condoms, broken glass, and traffic noise frown.gif

when 5 miles further out 84 there lies broughton (much cleaner, just as much climbing, etc).

Not trying to invite thread creep by turing this into a "this crag Vs. that crag" spray, but it escapes me why the preference for going here. Is it just the central location? That would be a fair enough response, but I'm just wondering.

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Sounds like I missed an unusually unruly pub club. Bill, I'm shocked.

 

Why Rocky? Because it's closer to where a lot of us work and live. And because there are some pretty sweet climbs there too. I like Broughton's, and I'm no fan of the broken glass, etc., but I've had a lot of fun at Rocky Butte on weekend evenings after work.

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There is no doubt the Butte is generally a fairly dirty place to climb, but unlike Broughton's the Butte offers a larger assortment of climbing choices, i.e. you can set up a TR on most climbs and there is a wider variety of moderates. Don't get me wrong, I don't enjoy topping out to broken glass and used condoms, although it is nice to find the old porno mag or two, the Butte is just very convenient and for me 15 minutes closer is 15 minutes longer I can flail about on my 5.2R wonder project. cantfocus.gif

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Awww, I think Bill was just feeling surly that day. I mean, after all, the man didn't have his beer...

 

"Guys, I feel compelled to ask... why Rocky, anyway?"

 

My take:

 

- Close to home, easier to battle traffic to get there.

- Easy to set up TRs on climbs that'll trash you quick.

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Honestly the "broken glass, used condums, etc" isn't that prevelant... and you usually only find it in areas that are easy for the kids to throw things off from above.

 

We climb at Rocky because it is:

 

- most centrally located for everyone

- top ropes are quick and easy and multiple routes can be TRed off one anchor

- everyone thinks its dirty so its never that crowded

- it's FREE

 

Honestly if people want to do one night at Rocky and one night at Broughton's fine with me... I just want to get out as much as possible as I don't know about you but I don't get any stronger spraying on the internet.

 

AND... if we all kept a garbage bag in our crag bag and picked up a few things every time we went... think about the possible outcomes... hmmm.

 

So yeah... wanna climb but not at Rocky? Say so! We are flexible!

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Awww, I think Bill was just feeling surly that day. I mean, after all, the man didn't have his beer...

 

"Guys, I feel compelled to ask... why Rocky, anyway?"

 

My take:

 

- Close to home, easier to battle traffic to get there.

- Easy to set up TRs on climbs that'll trash you quick.

 

Whew, back to sobriety.

 

Jeff, Paul and John have all answered it for me. Broughtons is a signifigantly better place, I'm sure we would all agree. However, I drive from Beaverton after work cause my asshole boss won't let me off early. In the packed rush hour traffic, throughout the trip and especially at 82nd ave the road usually looks like a constipated Grandmothers bunghole. ie, pretty clogged, a stopped up shitty mess.

 

The last thing I want in that environment, after at least an hour, is to drive another hour, 1/2 hour, or even 5 min on a clogged road when that time could be spent on rock.

 

Sh*t, just ask Jeff how I get when my beer is even 2 min late, I'm still apologising about it years later! yelrotflmao.gif I forgot about the whistling part. (Really, I'm so sorry, *cough *not, *cough*, not)

 

Anywho...If I had the time I'd drive right past RB and BB and head directly to Beacon, and not pass go on the way. But I don't - so I stop and climb on the seman encrusted, porn engorged, turbine sounding traffic noise, trash littered, car-breakin, asswipe populated shit hole called Rocky Butte: just cause it's there.

 

God I love that place.

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Sorry to disappoint but this is not a thread about getting together and pooling money for a group rate on a hooker in NE… smileysex5.gif (but what you do afterwards is your business)

 

ps, EVERY DAMN time I read the very first line on the very first post at the start of this thread I almost spew coffee and piss myself.

 

 

 

Well done Nolse. yelrotflmao.gif

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Been to the butte much less often than I've gone to the bluff, but it IS a little quicker to get to (Bill, I feel your pain on the BeaverTown commute, I'm coming from Tualatin) and the TRs are much more plentiful and are way easier to set up, but it bothers me with all that crap there.

Last time I was waiting at the bottom of one of the class 4's trying to leave and looked down; 6" from my foot was a needle. And I've almost put my forking hands right on a rubber. Sucks.

And then Nolse... I read that your car got broken into. I can't afford one of the crackheads checking out all the goodies in my van. boxing_smiley.gif

Broughton offers more peace of mind to me. Oh well, my own hang ups are my own hang ups. shocked.gif

 

Thanks for your guys' points-O-view.

We now return you to our regularly scheduled thread.... bigdrink.gif

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