Dru Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 Fern goes in search of solid ice on "Hell-O Kitty" WI3+ 100m, Hell's Gate, Fraser Canyon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 9, 2005 Author Share Posted January 9, 2005 the top pitch  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toast Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 Rock on Fern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 sweet - that looks like fun! where is that??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 Hell's Gate, Fraser canyon. Â deceptive pictures. I backed off both leads ... I could make an excuse but mostly I am just chicken and weak ... bok bok bok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 well, i thought it looked like fun from the second pic, but i really have no idea how hard it could be. nothing wrong with backing off a little ice. beautiful pic anyway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stemalot Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 on which side of the canyon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 10, 2005 Author Share Posted January 10, 2005 The central line of those 3 gullies behind the tourist trap. Sorry to poach "our" line Steve but there was a party already on Jackass  Oh yeah Shaun Neufeld, Aaron Isbell and I climbed a new line called "The Diviner" 260m WI4 near the Peters Rd. exit today. Lower part was dry, upper part was very wet (inversion?), 2 hr bushwack approach. Lots more unclimbed ice up there but most of it was a lot thinner that what we did.  I hit myself in the face with an ice chunk and knocked the lens out of my climbing glasses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 10, 2005 Author Share Posted January 10, 2005  Racking up   Soloing p1  Shaun starts up the crux pitch. Kinda foreshortened in this view Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 The central line of those 3 gullies behind the tourist trap. Sorry to poach "our" line Steve but there was a party already on Jackass Yeah that was us. we got completely drenched. Â Climbed Cruel pools today. Is it common knowledge that this thing is actually 8 pitches long? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 10, 2005 Author Share Posted January 10, 2005 8 pitches of WI3 or 8 pitches of WI2 with a little bit of 3? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Ah no. Maybe 6 of them were WI3. Good value, quite unexpected, it just kept going. the 8th pitch was awesome but the last ten feet was an eggshell over a ragin torrent and we had to exit right. An American party somehow made it up this bit yesterday apparently Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 PaulB on P1 Jackass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Wes making the last rap on Cruel pools this evening. I stupidly left my pack and camera at the base as I figured there was only a pitch or two to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 10, 2005 Author Share Posted January 10, 2005 How did Brief Respite look? ("Unclimbed Maybe Wi4" in the old guide) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 How did Brief Respite look? ("Unclimbed Maybe Wi4" in the old guide) Incredible and pretty fat looking. Extremely hi quality image taken last nite: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Climbed Cruel pools today. Is it common knowledge that this thing is actually 8 pitches long? Â more info for updates on westcoastice.com - i've got it in WCI2 as 140m, i.e. 3 pitches. were your pitches fairly full ropelengths? Â sounds like Darren and Bob either didn't climb it all, or the upper sections weren't frozen, or maybe it'd get snowed in if it dumped? i'll do some checking. Â it also sounds like really good value - good work. Â cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 I think if it were 1 degree warmer most of the upper pitches would unclimbable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 Mr freeze is in. rap anchors are in place- top tree on the left and abalakov half way up. solid wi5. dry line on the left side of the pilar, extremly wet on the right. riddler was extremly wet, cryptonite is not in. the wi3 by the tunnel is in and at least 2 parties did it sun. water music and under big top have sections missing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janez_Ales Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 I am glad it is only your lens Dru, did you guys make it to Canmore this new year? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janez_Ales Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 Good pics, Dru and Fern... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 11, 2005 Author Share Posted January 11, 2005 hey janez steve and i made it to the rockies but not to canmore we got in 2 days in the kicking horse canyon and 2 days out of rampart hostel before the temps dropped to -30, then we bailed to lillooet. hope you had a good new year, and i guess you still owe me $20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janez_Ales Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 Too bad for you guys, hope Rampart was a good cozy spot When it was the cold snap of about -30 C around here some of the coastal dudes went home - too cold, I guess like you two. Well, I went to the upper weeping wall twice and to PC in four days of "cold". No belay jackets needed for most of the day! Â They are waiting for you in my valet, the $$$ that is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stemalot Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 Rampart was good. Got to see a lot of stuff. Wasn't a bad trip for me as it is my first trip to the Rockies in winter. Climbed a couple of good routes too. It wasn't that cold. But I just need plastic boots to avoid loosing toes! Dru and I needed to drive back down anyways so we figured we might as well drive to Lillooet and check out the condition there sooner rather than later. Â Did you quite your job, Janez? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Janez_Ales Posted January 12, 2005 Share Posted January 12, 2005 Hi there stranger, "...in order to serve you better please print your full name in block letters...". I guess in your case it would go something like Stevealot...  Single boots will do on most days. It mostly depends if you do strip down enough for the climbing and have the belay jacket with you when you stop leading the pitch...  If I remember right you have those Cumbre boots? They suck, should have never been sold, the shape is simply not right, and when you pul the laces they squeeze the toes more than the arch, and because the laces run too smothley, there is no way to avoid that. And of course they freeze quite well by the end of the day. The bigest problem of all, the instep collapsed, no torsional stability in the middle of the boot, where you need it most. Saying that, I have quite a high arch so they could work for somebady with a flat foot. I found that Freney XT are much better, should be a bit colder on the insulation, but because they fit better, they are warmer. Different shape on the same sole.  "Did I quite my job?" My friend, that is like asking Don Juan if he parted with his ex? Just kidding...  I hope UBC was my last 9-5, God did not make me for that...  I brought my work with me, math modeling, algorithm design, the sort of stuff that the programmers claim they can do, but only until it stops working or it actually never did work. So if you wish anything from R&D to a working, (if I have to say this) code... unfortunately, hard to find work like this, o programming will do here and there  I had a bad flu in the last three days, but I can breathe normally now, well almost.  Climbing was excellent in the last 6 weeks, appart from my last day, when I already had a flu...  ;~J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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