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Posted (edited)

Climb: Escape from the Shopping Mall-Hood Reid HW

 

Date of Climb: 12/23/2004

 

Trip Report:

Instead of fighting the crowds, looking for parking, standing in line at a store check out, and all the other fun stuff of xmas shopping, Oleg and I enjoyed a steller day on Hood.

 

In casual form, we left Timerline at 11am and climbed mid-day, topping out at 7pm. I figured why loose sleep doing the typical Mazama early alpine start.

 

Perfect neve' cramponing on the HW. Soloed most of the climb, then jumped on the ridge around 10,600', thrashing up a couple of rim encrusted sections.

 

Oleg cramponing up

 

801IMG_2512-med.JPG

 

I-Rock in good form

801IMG_2514-med.JPG

 

Rime projectiles

801IMG_2516-med.JPG

 

Reid towers

801IMG_2518-med.JPG

 

Nearing sunset

801IMG_2534-med.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

30m-8.2mm rope

A collection of pickets

Edited by MtnHigh
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Posted

looked at climbing i-rock on tuesday but upon arriving on the scene decided it looked a might bit thin...maybe the route just right of the big central depression would go? looked like a definite walk in the men's room.

 

fuk i wish i wasn't in virginia right now!

Posted

The pencil of ice on the east face of I-Rock that wazzu mentioned looked like a thin smear. With balls it might go, but ice pro would be nothing more than psycholgical.

 

We didn't cross the main body of the Reid to gain the HW, but I looked it over from I-saddle before dropping down. The larger cravasses are open with just enough snow to cover the smaller slots.

 

It was warm at the parking lot at 11am, probably the upper 40's. On the lower half of the HW the wind was blowing rime off of the towers, but further up the golf ball showers subsided. I'm guessing that above 9000' the temp never topped freezing level.

 

I posted more pics in the gallery. Look for the Hood Reid 12-2004 titles.

Hood Reid 12-2004

Posted

Wazzumountaineer-

 

I think that Queen's Chair is the flat topping-out point for Leuthold's Coulior and Yocum ridge. You were probably looking at the right (south) side of the Reid Headwall formations (?).

Posted
You were probably looking at the right (south) side of the Reid Headwall formations (?).

 

yep, after looking at some pics it appears that the gully i was thinking of is the right most obvious one on the Reid HW. awesome looking line.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I took a 25 footer when a cam blew and I was caught by a bolt on some shitty sandstone, my foot hit a slab... and welll... Twmorrow Im headed to argentina with Steve Schnider as my rope gun, so hopefully I´ll get up something interesting, and mabey have a TR. Take care in Oregon eveyone bigdrink.gifbigdrink.gif

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